I have no new sewing to show you. Plus, our camera broke so if I had new sewing to show you, I wouldn’t be able to anyway. But following up on yesterday’s guest post from Inkstain (Dinah Lee Küng) on Little Girl Dressing, I thought I’d show you a glimpse of the very far extreme end of the scale (undoubtedly well beyond what Dinah was referring to in her essay).
After reading yesterday’s comments, I was reminded of the “Sweet Lolita” trend in Japanese street fashion. For those of you not already familiar, this fad has been around for several years (perhaps that means it’s no longer a fad?) and I remember noticing families of Japanese tourists here and there a few years ago in New York, in which the teenage and 20-something daughters were dressed in this style, which was probably at the height of its popularity. The first time I saw someone in this dress, I assumed she was performing in some sort of play. When I saw someone else in this type of outfit in a different part of the city later in the day, I figured there must be some sort of event going on in New York. I didn’t realize that this was simply a clothing style that people wore out until some weeks later when I discovered tons of books and magazines of Japanese Lolita fashion sewing patterns while browsing eBay for Japanese sewing books.
Here’s a page from one such book- you won’t find these patterns flipping through the Simplicity catalogue!
As a Westerner and one who has only ever visited Japan as a tourist, it’s hard for me to make any sort of meaningful or insightful commentary on this style that isn’t totally warped by my own expectations arising from the culture in which I was raised. If this trend had originated in the US among American teens and 20-somethings and they were popping up at the Whole Foods dressed like this, I’m sure I’d be ranting to friends and co-workers using very judgmental words like “pedophilia” and “infantilism.” But Japanese street fashion is its own wacky machine, a far more extreme form of self expression through clothing than any zany trend you’d see in New York, with its own set of gender and sexual connotations. It’s undoubtedly perceived differently in Japan than it would be in the US, though I can’t even begin to fathom what those differences are. So all I can really say is, “Ummm… yeah. That’s… pretty wack” and stare with my jaw hanging open. But I guess you probably don’t go out in this if you don’t want attention:
Incidentally, the Sweet Lolita trend is tightly intertwined with the Gothic Lolita trend, being sported in the photo above by the girl in black- it’s similar with a bit more of a goth or steampunk flavor.
One kind of has to be impressed- these girls go all out. It’s not just the dress, but the ruffled bonnet and petticoats, the lace-trimmed socks, the parasols, bows on the shoes, and even… a teddy bear?? There’s certainly no lack of attention to detail or skimping on accessorizing!
Ultimately this trend strikes me as being less influenced by Nabokov’s Lolita (whom I always picture in tomboy clothes rather than lace), or children’s fashion, but rather the desire to look like a life-sized baby doll:
Well, for those of you whose love of ruffles knows no bounds and want to try out this look, it’s a good thing you sew because these garments aren’t so easy to come by in most of the world. Head on over to eBay to check out some of these books!
And do come back and show us what you’ve come up with, ok?
36 comments
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May 18, 2010 at 9:36 am
Peter
Good Lord, and I just ate lunch, too.
May 18, 2010 at 9:38 am
selfishseamstress
Now you don’t need dessert!
May 18, 2010 at 9:50 am
MakingTime
Wow. I had no idea. No idea. Are those masks in the first picture or just makeup?
I was hopng we’d see the Swiss dot blouse – I haven’t missed it, have I?
May 18, 2010 at 9:55 am
reilly
I used to know a lot more about this trend, but I think unless you know a lot about Japanese culture you’re (general “you”!) really not fit to pass harsh judgement on the Lolita style of dressing. In a culture where there’s actually a specific label for kids who kill themselves or hole themselves up in their rooms after failing school exams, you can’t really blame them for wanting to hold onto their youth in some way. Take into account their country’s motto is “The nail that sicks out gets hammered down”, and they must be pretty brave.
I would like to address this comment, though:
“But I guess you probably don’t go out in this if you don’t want attention..”
I know the tone of your blog is largely sarcastic, and I laugh with every entry, but as someone who gets that attitude often directed towards myself, I really have to disagree. I think people should be free to have piercings on their face, tattoos wherever they want them, and whatever manner of dress they want without being gawked at. Sure, some people like attention, but they come in all shapes, sizes, and manner of decoration. I’m a vintage fashion/sewing blogger with tattoos, and I don’t do either of those things so that when I’m out at dinner or going to class people will invade my privacy and touch me or ask me a million questions. Just because I’m aware of how people my age usually dress and act and I’m not afraid to refrain from participating, doesn’t mean I’m asking for stares.
May 18, 2010 at 10:05 am
selfishseamstress
I’m very much not passing judgment- this is my whole point in explicitly saying that I, as someone who is not a member of the society in which this trend resides, cannot read it in the way in which it is perceived by the members of that society. I can only read it from an alien point of view.
That being said, my comment about attention was not meant to be sarcastic. Based on my understanding of Japanese street fashion (which I admit is limited), there is a strong performance and costume aspect to trends such as Lolita and Ganguro, quite unlike the American take on tattoos or piercings. I may be misinformed about such trends, but my understanding is that part of the appeal of following and dressing in these trends is the accompanying attention, such as being photographed by and with tourists. If I am incorrect about this, then my apologies to the people who follow these trends without interest in the attentional aspects of it. However, I do not think we should necessarily assume the American notions of the relationship between privacy, conformance, and fashion necessarily translate to fashion trends in other cultures as well. In any case, sarcasm was not intended with that comment.
May 18, 2010 at 9:57 am
Tasia
Well, I was one of the ruffle-lovers but these pictures are too much! Who wants to look like a human doll – creepy.
May 18, 2010 at 9:59 am
Nikole
This is a *bit* much… I’ve heard of Lolita porn…seeing this now i think i understand now what it means.
I don’t know if i should laugh or be horrified but my feeling are a good mixture of both right now
May 18, 2010 at 10:03 am
wan-nabe
okay, that first photo is going to give me nightmares for DAYS.
May 18, 2010 at 10:06 am
Colleen P.
Mutant Polly Pocket dolls that have the knock-kneed stance of a toddler that needs to pee…uhm….yeah. I’d say that was definitely original but as they seem to be a matched set that doesn’t really apply.
I can’t see the two pictures after that one, unfortunately, so I can only imagine!
May 18, 2010 at 10:08 am
katy
sweet lolita is just a bit too, well, sweet for my tastes, but classic lolita is pretty amazing. it’s inspired by 18th and 19th century fashions, but made a bit more wearable for today (though still nowhere near ‘normal’ standards of dress). not so much makeup and much more elegant. as someone who loves 18th/19th century fashions, I can appreciate classic lolita – i’d even wear some of the clothing, but styled a bit more to my tastes.
after reading the guest post on little girl fashion yesterday, i was browsing for some nice 1950’s patterns for summery things, and i kept finding junior miss and children’s patterns that i loved and wanted to buy to grade up a bit (some might even not need it…). many times i saw a woman’s and girl’s pattern that were very similiar, but I liked the child’s version better. (child being 14-year old as opposed to 6…) the women’s patterns just didn’t look like my figure, i suppose, or perhaps it’s my age – at 24 i don’t feel like a ‘woman’ yet. but i would never have thought twice about liking the younger version of things if not for your post. now i’m questioning my motives!
May 18, 2010 at 10:33 am
selfishseamstress
Haha, the idea that anyone would reconsider what they will or won’t wear based on what I say is scary :) Wear what you love and what makes you feel confident and comfortable and you will look great. And be 24 while you’re 24!
May 19, 2010 at 9:19 am
katy
oh, i still bought my little girl patterns :) i just actually thought about why they were more interesting to me than ones meant for grown-up ladies! am i afraid of growing up? holding on to childhood? rebelling against standard modes of dress for a ‘woman’ my age? nope, it’s just that the pattern illustrations for women’s garments (especially on 50’s patterns it seems) are much more top-heavy than i am, the teen/child ones are much more my size! i feel more comfortable with that image than of a mature woman. i wouldn’t change my wearing habits from what someone else said, i just liked that what you said made me think about why i do what i do/like the things i do, instead of just doing/liking.
May 18, 2010 at 10:19 am
Joana
Is is not my personal taste of clothing, but I love it! Of course this form of dress is extreme, but it is a form of creative expression and of unconventionalism.
I don’t like when people express their “unconventionalism” by being dirty, smely of noisy because I think it is a lack of respect for others. But this is just great! Makes me smile to look at!
And being a (very modest) seamstress myself, I can apreciate how much work was put on those clothes…
May 18, 2010 at 10:48 am
Rachel
Reminds me of a scene from The Office. The women are at the mall and Angela tells them she has to go to the American Girls store. Cut to Angela talking directly to the camera: “Sometimes I find the clothes at Limited 2 to be too revealing, so I go to the American Girls store and buy clothes intended for very large dolls.”
May 18, 2010 at 11:24 am
Nancy Karpen
Bizarre. I do see it as a form of self expression, but of what I am not quite sure.
May 18, 2010 at 11:34 am
thelandofka
I love looking at clothes choices of those in the alternative scenes. Yes, it is over the top for me, but they are having fun with it and being creative. I’m more of a fan of the classic lolita dresses, which usually pop up over on Craftster from time to time. A lot of work go into some of those outfits.
May 18, 2010 at 11:43 am
trudy callan
I like ruffles and very feminine dress for women, but this is a little too extreme for my taste. It is very interesting to look at, though.
May 18, 2010 at 11:47 am
DelphineCoud
I do own some books and sewing books about lolita mainly because I developped an interest in Gothic Lolita (I liked the more punk side and not really lolita) a few years ago. The main idea is definitely to look like a doll and it’s not a sexual representation. I was really amazed with Japan (was learning japanese at the time) and there sewing culture, the even have sewing magazines for youth subcultures. As a french seamstress (where there’s 1 french magazine and it’s for old ladies / well older than me at least) it made me sooooooo jealous…
May 18, 2010 at 11:50 am
seammonster
Yes, I was thinking about Lolita fashion too when I read the guest blog post. I wonder if the new western fashion trends are being influenced by these extreme japanese versions.
I actually once saw an awesome movie that had a different take on the meaning of this look-and suggests it can be more subversive—one idea that is that she is activly resisting societal pressure to sexualize herself, and is not succuming to outward expectations of what a young woman “should” look like—the movie is called Kamekazi Girls, and the main character is a Lolita who falls in with a girl motorcycle gang: http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0416220/.
Then again, the picture you posted above is admittedly terrifying–I suspect its hard to generalize what the motives are for any individual Lolita,…But, you should still watch this movie for the clothes alone because they are awesome! Or at least check out the company that inspried it:
http://www.babyssb.co.jp/
May 18, 2010 at 11:51 am
Lhynnan
well I love it…. wholly and unreservedly LOVE it :-) and this is pretty much why I learned to sew in the first place, so I can make utterly fabulous and flamobyant clothes that aren’t in the shops becasue hardly anyone wats to wear them except me, :-) FABULOUS! ruffles, bows, skulls, hearts, teddies, dolls, give them to me GIVE THEM TO ME NOW!!!! :-) :-)
May 18, 2010 at 12:16 pm
Len
I saw a girl on the U-Bahn in Dortmund dressed like this on my way home the other day… Though to be fair I was noticing more that she was only just as tall as I was in her massive Mary Jane platforms.
I find the Lolita thing a bit much to be honest, but I have seen a few Gothic Lolita outfits that I’ve thought looked cool, I guess the ‘gothicness’ takes out the fact that there are SO MANY RUFFLES. Imagine when you have to go to the loo, that’s a bit of a nightmare!! It would be EPIC to sew though. RUFFLE-TASTIC.
May 18, 2010 at 1:07 pm
Stef
If this is what the girls feel comfortable in- why not? To each his own. As long as nobody makes me dress that way, why should it bother me? The look is definitely more interesting than what most young people wear and I like it a lot more than the skanktastic stuff some young women are wearing.
May 18, 2010 at 1:25 pm
selfishseamstress
But why is it then okay to call what some other girls wear “skanktastic” if it is what *they* are comfortable in? This is not intended as a criticism of your comment or opinion, both of which are perfectly valid and welcome. But I’m wondering more about the many comments on today’s posts and yesterday’s posts which seem to imply that everyone else is “judging” just because they express taste for one aesthetic over another.
I think we have to keep in mind that there is a difference between judging people based on what they wear and having an aesthetic opinion. My guess is that when MOST people see a fashion, they’re going to have an opinion, be it thumbs up, thumbs down, or somewhere in between. People who genuinely find all clothing equally attractive probably wouldn’t be reading sewing blogs. There is a difference between having an opinion and judging, and we shouldn’t rush to assume that others are judging. In the same way that people should have the right to wear whatever makes them happy, people should also have the right to have an opinion without being criticized for having an opinion.
May 18, 2010 at 7:38 pm
Sophie
Also, you can judge clothing without judging the person. I know several very nice people who have had more than one “Oh my gosh, you did NOT wear that out of the house” moment. If your skirt is six inches too short (i.e., shorter than it was designed to be) or you’re wearing heels you can’t walk in, I will judge the clothing, but not necessarily you.
Does that make any sense?
May 18, 2010 at 1:20 pm
Tenshi
As someone above mentioned, this is, at least for some people, about resisting the pressure to sexualize oneself or be sexualized in the way in which women’s bodies usually are displayed and sexual avalability is suggested everwhere and all the time. For others, it might just be about looking like a pretty doll, or about resisting to grow up.
Whatever it is, I think it is vastly more pretty, feminine and appropriate than wearing leggings or sweatpants out-of-doors. I love the antique porcelain doll look. It is so exquisite.
I, too, prefer classic and gothic lolita styles, though, because they are a bit more toned down. Not that I’ve ever worn lolita, but I definitely admire it when I see it. Hooray for everyone who does not succumb to mainstream plastic pop culture but finds ad goes his or her own way.
May 18, 2010 at 3:03 pm
Shams
The Lolita look (gothic or otherwise) is alive and well here in San Francisco. But, then, we are a Pacific Rim city. :) When the Free People store opened a year or so ago in Japan Town, it drew the Lolitas out of the woodwork. Personally, it amuses me, and makes me smile, though couldn’t be farther from my own aesthetic. When I take my daughter to Comic Con later this year, one of her friends will be dressed as a Steampunk Lolita. My daughter’s tastes run more to a Battlestar Galactica Viper pilot.
Oh, to be young again. :)
May 18, 2010 at 3:43 pm
Stephanie
RE: dressing differently and calling attention to yourself.
I like dressing differently. I like looking different. I don’t mind much that I get looked at, glared at, or interrogated for it. Australian society values conformity more than American; subcultures don’t exist here on the same scale. My generally vintage way of dressing stands out.
I look at it like I’m giving someone a story to tell when they go home that night. Their day may have otherwise been bland and ordinary, but on their lunch break they passed a beautiful lady walking down the street wearing a lime-green wiggle dress and beehive. Or victory rolls and Katherine Hepburn pants with a fluffy-dressed little girl in tow. I like to think I inject a little whimsy in the world.
Maybe that’s what the lolitas and their ilk like to think they do?
May 18, 2010 at 6:37 pm
Angel
I’ve always been a fan of the gothic lolita style. I come from the bay area and there are lots of different styles and cultures abound. I say if you want to wear a straight laced librarian look sweet. If you like to wear billions of ruffles and lace doilies on your clothes all the power to you. The greatest thing about clothing is it is a way to really have some creativity and self expression. So as long as they are wearing something power to them.
May 18, 2010 at 7:45 pm
juebejue
woah! took me staring at the first picture for quite a long time to realise they are actually adults.
May 18, 2010 at 8:02 pm
Kerry
I’m not judging – I just think it’s creepy. The girls in the first pic don’t look human.
It’s all a little too “Bo Peep” for me, but to each her own.
I can imagine that they have a lot of fun with the acquisition of the entire ensemble and the time spent getting dressed up and going out dressed like that.
May 18, 2010 at 9:11 pm
Fourth Daughter
I lived in Japan for 9 years, worked in fashion, and saw many fads come and go but this was one that doesn’t seem to go away. As much as anything I think it’s more a desire to be part of a group when girls (or boys!) dress like this, it would only be very few who actually dress up with the explicit intent to be photographed by tourists or by the many, many grown men in Japan who like this look. Japanese love to be part of a group (as do we all, I suppose) and of course the way they dress completely relates to how they see themselves fitting in with the rest of society. You really do see every type of look there – from the traditional kimono and the girls who are resurrecting that trend through to these Lolita types, people dressed like Sailor Moon and other comic heroes, French maids (there are even maid cafes where guys can go specifically to be served by girls dressed this way – and as far as I know that’s all that happens), and then the ganguro look with grey hair, crazy fake tans and a ton of white eyeshadow and lashes weighed down with mascara and fake diamonds etc, which changes slightly every summer but refuses to die (my friend referred to them as cockroaches, which also come out every summer and refuse to die!). I’ll occasionally post on stuff I saw while I was there like this: http://stylewilderness.blogspot.com/2010/05/silly-sunday.html and I’m translating a book on kimono right now so am also throwing in interesting kimono facts and putting up pics of beautiful kimono material http://stylewilderness.blogspot.com/2010/05/final-chapter.html and some of the stuff I’ve made from it http://stylewilderness.blogspot.com/2010/05/fourth-daughter-retrospective.html , so come and visit!
May 18, 2010 at 9:13 pm
Fourth Daughter
oops.. that was a long comment.. but anything about Japan, and I’m off!!
May 19, 2010 at 1:00 am
Marie-Christine
Say what you want about cultural differences and everything, we’re still talking about a country where women like Yoko Ono have to exile themselves in order to have a real life.. That unfortunately hasn’t changed much.
May 19, 2010 at 2:28 am
Nancy
We moved to Japan last year and the first place I visited was Harajuku- where I saw my first Lolita. I had no idea they even exsisted so it was a shock to see girls dressed like lil’ Bo Peep.
The fashions here are so much fun in my opinion. And it is so different. Here the girls are ultra feminine and girly- from big bows and bangs to lots of ruffles and high heels. The wedding dresses are something to see as well. My daughter had an audition for a bridal fashion show- Barbie wedding dresses! The dresses were so frilly with layers and layers of crinoline. And some were even striped- big bold black stripes- Barbie gone goth I guess. Totally wild.
I am going to have to look for those Lolita patterns now…
May 19, 2010 at 6:11 am
Myra
OK, the first group of girls are too identical, too baby-doll looking, enough to creep you out. Not judging them for wearing it, that’s their business, but the effect of the photo is a bit much. I did think the goth one was interesting, though.
May 19, 2010 at 6:48 am
sue
I think it is a fun look especially since it totally suits the average Japanese girls body type of being short and small breasted. Japanese girls are often stereotype as cute rather than sexy. Dressing up like a doll accentuates all those attributes.