Once again, work has gotten to be so hectic that time for everything else has just about dried up. I tried at first to buy some extra minutes by eliminating unnecessary words and phrases from utterance, such as “please,” “thank you,” “are you going to eat that?” and “you don’t mind if I cut ahead of you, right?” And although I found myself at the front of queues much sooner after implementing these changes, I still found myself short on time, which meant no sewing for weeks on end. I finally squeezed a few hours this weekend to finish up a stagnating project (most likely at the expense of lectures that needed prepping or students that needed help- suckas!) – a dress inspired by the Kate Spade “Jillian” polka dot dress. Here’s the original:
Sooooooo pretty, right?? This dress has been drooled over by many a seamstress, including Kerry, who took a much smarter and more efficient approach to satisfying her covet. Not so for the Selfish Seamstress, who had to do things the slow way. (Kerry, incidentally, is so similar to Selfish in proportions that Selfish occasionally dreams of annexing Kerry, installing her in the sewing room, and using her as some sort of feisty, live-action dress form. Oh, what fun we would have, and what a precise fit!)
I don’t know on what blog or website I first saw the dress, but I am sure that the picture above is the first one I saw, and the one I fell for. I don’t think I would have gotten quite so excited over it if I had only seen the modeled dress. Subsequent research on the dress revealed a slightly more sedate, less flared skirt than I had expected as well as a rather polka-dot-disruptive back seamed skirt that I wanted to avoid (as I had done before when knocking off other polka dot garments).
And so I set off to improve upon the original to make it more to my liking. Yes, you read that correctly- a crankpot nobody sewing blogger with average sewing skills, no fashion design training, and paltry creative vision of her own actually claimed she was going to improve upon KATE SPADE. Improve. Kate Spade. Hubrisalicious!
Planned improvement #1: more flare in the skirt. Planned improvement #2: side zip instead of back zip to ditch the back seam. Planned improvement #3: COTTON. Online retailers described the original polka dot Jillian dress as being done in “heavy silk organza.” Really? Looks like taffeta to me. Whatever weave it is, it’s strictly a party dress in sheeny, stiff silk. And Selfish never gets invited to parties on account of her tendency to ruin everyone else’s evening, so she was aiming for a little more versatility- something she could wear to ruin general everyday events for people.
Improvement #3 turned out to be a rather tall order, as it was hard to find the right navy and white polka dot cotton fabric. I didn’t want to wuss out with some rinky-dink mid-scale 1/2″ polka dot. I wanted a proper, robust, intentionally large, unashamed dot. Plus I wanted a regular dot pattern, like Kate’s, and not an irregular, scattered dot. See this? Unacceptable:
After much scouring of the internet, I found this perfectly patterned navy and and white cotton on Denver Fabrics, with just the right size dot (slightly less dense than the original, but not a problem) and a smooth, sateen-like weave, for the just-right price of $5.50 . (Of course, I was so desperate to have the dress that I paid the $40 international shipping to procure 2.5 yards of it. Oh, Selfish, there you go again.) The dots are perfectly circular in real life- they just look a little eccentric in the picture.
The fabric arrived and although it’s not lightweight, it’s softer and drapier than I was expecting- it feels like the high thread count cotton Royal Sateen bedsheets that my mom loves, after they’ve been through the wash a couple of times. So, rather limp and prone to wrinkling- better suited to a softer, looser style of dress than the crisp fit and flare silhouette that I had envisioned. But I was determined and certainly wasn’t going to find a better print so I pressed on.
I was going to draft the dress from scratch, and then I remembered that I had a custom-drafted pattern with just the right bodice for it that I could use as a block- my good old Coffee Date Dress (download the pattern and instructions for free here!). I slashed-and-spread the skirt in several places to give it a little more flare for good measure (the original Coffee Date Dress draft has a rather modest flare) and added a 4″ inverted box pleat in the center front à la Kate. I omitted the Coffee Date Dress’s back zip in favor of a side invisible zip to avoid the dreaded polka dot disruption:
The side seam polka-dot disruption is much less jarring since the side seam of the skirt is on the bias and no strong vertical elements to get interrupted:
And of course, I drafted the fun midriff drape and the bow (the tails of my bow are a little longer than in the original. Somehow I thought the little bow looked rather twee, but with this style of dress that’s kind of like further splitting hairs that have already been split.) The bow droops a bit due to the softness of the fabric so I may open it up again and line or interface it.
Because the fabric was so soft, I opted to do a full lining instead of facings to give it a little more body. I used a champagne taffeta lining from my stash- probably an acetate and rayon blend, but possibly full acetate. It has a bit more stiffness than Bemberg (a good thing for the soft fashion fabric) and the champagne color softens the sparkling whiteness of the polka dot fabric a little (also a good thing, in my opinion.)
I don’t regret adding in the extra flare to the skirt – this dress looks pretty much like what I imagined in my head. But the volume of the skirt does cause the front box pleat to get a little bit lost in the shuffle. And I always forget how short I drafted the original Coffee Date Dress- I’ve got about a 3/4″ hem only because I didn’t want to go any shorter with this style.
There you have it- inspired by the Kate Spade polka dot Jillian dress, knocked off and “improved” by the Selfish Seamstress on the cheap, ready to wear to any number of places and activities where you can fully expect that I will ruin your day and that of everyone around you. Oh, by the way, are you going to eat that? Thanks.
78 comments
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May 3, 2012 at 9:42 am
Ali M
You totally trumped Kate Spade, I love the alterations you made for the uninterrrupted polka dots in back, looks great!
Also I’m glad your smart assed humor was the first blog post I read today, gets me off to a nice start ;)
May 3, 2012 at 9:46 am
Karin
Looks good!
Hubrisalicious is definitely a useful new addition to the lexicon.
May 3, 2012 at 10:00 am
The French Sewing Girl
Oooh I love knock-offs and I love Kate Spade = I love this dress. NOW GIVE IT TO ME BECAUSE I WON’T HAVE TIME TO MAKE IT FOR MYSELF ! Thanks.
May 3, 2012 at 10:13 am
Sassy T
Very pretty.
May 3, 2012 at 10:27 am
HipDroppedStitches
Stunning!!!
May 3, 2012 at 10:29 am
Jan
Definitely an improvement over the original (I didn’t care for the very low back on the original. Plus, why have a dramatic scoop back there calling attention to the polka dot massacre?). We’ve been missing your snark … how rude of work to keep you away from us!
May 3, 2012 at 6:44 pm
selfishseamstress
I should tell you though that many polka dots were lost in the creation of my dress as well. Some of them split right in two, down the middle. The scraps on my sewing table afterwards… with only tiny bits of polka dot scattered on them.. it was… horrible….
May 3, 2012 at 10:32 am
Claire (aka Seemane)
The dress looks great on you Elaine :)
(I guess you could always underline a fashion fabric like yours to decrease the drape-factor too.)
May 3, 2012 at 10:33 am
Lakaribane
I love the dress and will check my stash to see how many polka dots I own. And I’m VERY interested in more info on your shoes, I just love wedge sandals!!!
May 3, 2012 at 6:48 pm
selfishseamstress
Hiya!! The shoes are red faux suede espadrilles that I got from ModCloth a couple of years ago. I didn’t realize it at the time that I bought them but they’re apparently a knockoff of $500 Valentino espadrilles (who pays that much for a shoe that’s made of straw??) There’s a blog post about where you can get similar ones here: http://intheircloset.com/valentino-bow-espadrille-wedges
May 3, 2012 at 10:35 am
Kay Young
Beautiful! Next time you run out of hem room, try a faced hem. Depending on the material used (self fabric, lining, etc.) you can make the hem stiffer or soft.
May 3, 2012 at 10:39 am
kathyh
Definitely hubrisalicious as I don’t have to pay $40 to get fabric shipped to me.
Maybe one of those people who had to move to the back of the line to accommodate your hurriedness will take a flashy and post to youtube so we can see the dots do their thing.
Well done.
May 3, 2012 at 10:50 am
Valerie Chapman-Stockwell
Are you going to wear that? Thanks! :-D Lovely dress, now I have polka-dot lust going on.
May 3, 2012 at 11:02 am
Phoebe
That is such a pretty dress, great job!
May 3, 2012 at 11:25 am
June
You completely one-upped Kate Spade. Were you entering the PR knock-off contest, or was this just a coincidence? I liked the suggestion of the faced hem.
May 3, 2012 at 11:41 am
Jen
It’s a definite improvement on the original! Love it!
I had the same thoughts when I saw the Kate Spade one on the model…
May 3, 2012 at 11:54 am
Crystal
I thought you were going to underline in organza to stiffen up the fabric. It turned out great, and I like your improvements very much.
May 3, 2012 at 6:49 pm
selfishseamstress
I thought about it, but I didn’t have anything suitable for underlining and I was impatient :) I should definitely stock silk organza in the house though for future situations. Thanks for the reminder!
May 3, 2012 at 12:13 pm
Fran Giacobbe
So cute! I miss your adventures in sewing/designing….please try to find more time..I need your inspiration!
May 3, 2012 at 12:17 pm
Seraphinalina
Wow that’s pretty. I am a fan of polka dots, it’s a lovely dress.
May 3, 2012 at 12:17 pm
Susan
This dress is improved for sure, very pretty. I just love your take on things, you are one witty seamstress :)
May 3, 2012 at 12:26 pm
Jeyco
I love the dress! so pretty!!
May 3, 2012 at 12:46 pm
robindenning
It is nice to see you posting, but gosh, why can’t you show us something amazing? slacker.
I own a Selfish Seamstress coffee cup and it gives me quite an attitude, don’t you think?
OK, seriously. Your dress is amazingly beautiful. Truly.
:)
May 3, 2012 at 6:50 pm
selfishseamstress
Yay! A mug user! I’m glad to see you’re getting your drinking your daily allowance of sass from it. Luv it!
May 3, 2012 at 12:46 pm
GirlSpazdog
As usual, fantastic! You definitely one-upped the original.
May 3, 2012 at 12:59 pm
T. Sedai
Lovely! And much better than the original.
May 3, 2012 at 1:41 pm
Gorgeous Things
While I have been known to hunt the occasional polka-dot for sport, I’ve never really liked “Massacrees”, as we call them in these parts. But I do LOVE what you have done with your prize polka-dot pelt. Brava!!!
May 3, 2012 at 2:56 pm
Carolyn
I love how you’ve made this dress your own and even though I’ve been known to knock off one of your designer inspired dresses this one is so you that I’m stepping away and letting you enjoy the spotlight alone in this marvelous dress!
May 3, 2012 at 6:52 pm
selfishseamstress
What a nice thing to say! Though I think you’d look great in navy and white polka dot if you ever got the urge :)
May 3, 2012 at 6:02 pm
Kerry
The Selfish Seamstress Wrote About Me On Her Blog!! This is like getting invited to sit at the cool girls table at lunch. I sorta feel like Winona Ryder in Heathers, only I have no intentions of assassinating the Selfish Seamstress. (I also realize that I need to update my blog with all of the dresses I’ve sewn in the last 7 months).
May 3, 2012 at 6:43 pm
selfishseamstress
What up, twinsie! Yes, I want to see what you’ve been up to. And of course you can sit at my lunch table, but I should warn you that in the Heathers scenario I am not a Heather. I am obviously J.D. Greetings and salutations!
May 3, 2012 at 6:33 pm
Gail
Great dress.
May 3, 2012 at 7:43 pm
Elaine (nobody you know)
Waaaay better. Nice work.
May 3, 2012 at 8:19 pm
Misty
Ignoring lecture prep and students in favor of sewing? I heartily approve! I only wish I could ignore the inevitable guilt when I find myself doing the same… Beautiful dress!
May 3, 2012 at 9:16 pm
Faye Lewis
Wat a cute knockoff!
May 3, 2012 at 10:53 pm
Sue
Sweet dress! Worth the hunt for the perfect dotted fabric!
May 3, 2012 at 11:01 pm
Dixie
Terrific job of knocking Kate off her perch. This dress is very cute and looks fabulous on you!
May 4, 2012 at 3:07 am
Lisa E
So stinkin’ cute!! I love it. By the way, happy belated birthday. No, I’m not a stalker, we share the same birthday, so it’s easy for me to remember. Sadly, I turned 50 this year. My kids tell me that I look 40, so I guess I have to hold on to that!
May 4, 2012 at 12:20 pm
amy
Always good to see your tiny rubber hand(s) and hubricacious projects. You definitely improved the Jillian dress, though I think the saggy bow bits would bug me enough over time that I’d go back and put in some interfacing now rather than be bugged over it.
I was a professor for several years before shifting gears – those students? They never freaking stop. There are always more, so, on the aggregate, they really should not serve as an excuse for not sewing. Individually, they are much more difficult.
(nota bene: rubber-hand effect only apparent in hands hanging at rest in photos.)
May 4, 2012 at 12:58 pm
Simona
Reblogged this on Sewing Adventures In The Attick and commented:
This is a lady that I admire and love all the lovely things she makes. I am way she is one of my ‘sewing heroes’. Don’t you just love her ideas? I do like her version of the dress better. I wish I were as creative as she is. Go have a look! her blog is full for great tips and crisp ideas about her projects :)
May 5, 2012 at 9:20 am
Lisa Marie MacDonald
My goodness woman – you are my sewing idol. After finding you via Pinterest, I now stock myself a “selfish” update every few weeks, just to see what you have been up to. You are so talented and I learn so much about sewing and design through your posts. Thank you!
May 5, 2012 at 11:06 pm
desertnails
Wow, super cute! Your dress is better!
May 6, 2012 at 4:26 pm
ette
The dress is really beautiful. I like your alterations and it suits you perfectly. I wouldn’t have guessed that you can make this on the basis of the Coffee Date Dress (but it’s good to know ;-) ).
And the red shoes are the perfect match, I love them!
May 7, 2012 at 1:56 pm
The Slapdash Sewist
So cute! I may have to copy you copying Kate Spade. That front drape/tie is perfect for my figure challenges. If I had any, that is.
May 11, 2012 at 4:23 pm
Wendy
oh Selfish! you’ve turned me into a monster! I want to be just as selfish and flash it all to the world to see that I am Awesome! lol.
Anyways, thank you for the constant inspiration!
May 21, 2012 at 9:23 pm
paintthinnr
For the love of God: Post woman, post! I miss my much needed display of selfish sewing. Please! Others are trying to get me to sew for them! I need your guidance to help me be strong! But because of you I was able to have the following conversation between me and my boss. Yes. My boss, in corporate America who is an innate jackass asked me to make him something. For free.
Jackass: So, I hear you’re making clothes now…
Me: Yes… When I’ve got some free time on the weekends [aka when you’re not working us to the bone with no overtime]
Jackass: When are you going to make me something?
Me: Umm… Well I’m not sure that would be appropriate.
Jackass: Why?
Me: Well I can only make two things for men.
Jackass: What?
Me: Ties…
Jackass: Oh, I don’t wear those…
Me: And boxer shorts. And both your wife and I would find it inappropriate for me to make those for you.
Jackass: Oh, I don’t know that we’d have to tell her…
Me: Ok fine. My rate is $80 per hour plus supplies and snacks.
Jackass: But that’s more than we pay you here…
Me: That’s a good point…
Oh yes, this actually happened.
August 21, 2012 at 6:49 pm
DesignsByDenise
My response to a coworker who found out I sewed and wanted me to make something for him or his daughters, was this: I only sew for those I love, and I don’t love you.
Mean, maybe. True, definitely. Likely to ever happen, not unless he wants to pay me $80 an hour, which he probably could since he’s technically a millionaire and is marrying a partner/lawyer. In which case, I revert to my first statement.
May 25, 2012 at 4:48 pm
NinaLBoston
Dear Selfish —
Great job (as always). If no one else has mentioned (too many comments to read), try spray starch on the front ties — the entire piece. What else can you do once it’s all assembled?
The back seam was unforgivable – reminds me of the button placket debacle on the Milly silk plaid dress. Thanks for link to the fabric.
You’re an inspiration.
To Paintthinnr — love your style in conversation with Mr. Jackass! That $80/h is totally necessary; you’ll need a good shrink after that project.
May 27, 2012 at 8:07 pm
Sandy in W
Oh, I wish I were young instead of old….I’d love to be able to wear such a perfectly ADORABLE dress as that!!!
May 28, 2012 at 7:17 am
Goodbye Valentino
One of the best KS knock-offs I’ve ever seen. Just beautiful!
June 4, 2012 at 2:34 pm
Daily Dress: Kate Spade Jillian | The D.C. Seamstress
[…] My love for this dress is eclipsed only by my horror over its $358 price tag. Luckily, we seamstresses have no need to pay hundreds of dollars for a designer name. We can just make our own, as the Selfish Seamstress did here. […]
June 18, 2012 at 2:15 pm
Leigh
Still loving the dress, but missing your smarta$$ humor. Finals over yet?
June 22, 2012 at 6:09 am
Carolyn
Wow, your dress is absolutely stunning!!
I borrowed your photo of Fratelli Bassetti Tessuti in Rome; I hope you don’t mind. I also linked to your excellent review of the store.. I hope it’s OK that I used your photo, if it is not then please let me know and I will take it down straight away. :)
June 27, 2012 at 10:45 am
amylee
Hello :) I really love this dress. How long have you been sewing for? Love your work!
August 17, 2012 at 12:40 am
Hannah
Oh selfish seamstress…you’re tempting me to break my rule of never commenting on anything ever (I’m very important, you see, and have much better things to do than to give Susie Seamstress encouragement) but you have bewitched me and I MUST SPEAK. Your posts are hilarious, your projects awesome, your colour palette fabulous (obviously, since it’s what I look good in too) and you haven’t posted in 3 MONTHS and even though I don’t know you, I MISS YOU.
There, I’ve ruined my dignity. I hope you’re happy.
August 18, 2012 at 11:19 pm
m
Agree with Hannah!!!!!
August 21, 2012 at 6:44 pm
DesignsByDenise
Oh Selfish, where to begin? While I try to never do anything religious (or religiously), I’m overjoyed that you are blogging again. I would follow you religiously if I did that sort of thing, which I don’t (see above). I, too, am from the Seattle area. Transplanted to Denver, far from my beloved daughters (and granddaughter, and son, and his girlfriend, and…), I am the opposite of you, Selfish Seamstress, in that I almost ONLY sew for others instead of myself. Of course, my closet could certainly use an update (when my girls come to visit, they make me throw out my old things from the 80’s. Which means I don’t have much left). And of course sewing for a granddaughter is not even like work, since things go together so quickly and she LOVES them and looks absolutely adorable in everything I design and make for her. I love your posts, you share the same snarky, super-intelligent humor that seems to run in my offspring. You inspire me, make me laugh, and generally make my day better when I chance to stumble across your postings. PLEASE, ditch those pesky students and cater to your many fans! We need our Selfish fix, and daily would be nice although these month-long hiatuses (or is it hiati?- no, I was right as usual) are just untenable. They need to stop. Period.
And Hannah, I’m sorry your dignity is ruined, but it was for a very good cause. And you’re in excellent company. Just look around you here. Selfish attracts only the best except for those asshats who steal her work.
August 21, 2012 at 6:52 pm
DesignsByDenise
Oh, and I almost forgot. If you were as good as me, you would have matched the polka dots in the back seam so no one could tell there was a seam there.
September 10, 2012 at 6:36 pm
sleeperproject
Stop being so selfish and post!!! I miss the craic!
Elle, Leeds, UK
October 4, 2012 at 7:48 pm
Maude Parent
Wow! This is a really pretty dress. I’ve been looking at your blog and you are very good !! I love what you sew :) Right now I don’t have time to sew and your blog reallllyyy makes me want to have a date with my sewing machine !!
Maude ( mpbymaude.blogspot.ca )
October 20, 2012 at 1:01 am
Kez
COOOOOOOOOME BAAAAAAAAACK
October 21, 2012 at 3:10 pm
krismayne
I agree. I miss your creations!
October 21, 2012 at 11:29 pm
Bethsews
Dignity also gone here….come back!!!!!!!!!
October 22, 2012 at 9:18 am
Kriti
Come back!!! We miss you….
October 23, 2012 at 12:37 am
Angi @ schneiderpeeps
Elaine, this dress is beautiful. I found your blog while looking for a pattern for a dance skirt to make for my daughter. Thanks so much for sharing.
October 28, 2012 at 8:31 am
nessie
Hi, I have just come across your blog, its awesome. You have done a gorgeous job with ‘kate’s’ dress.
October 28, 2012 at 11:58 am
sewladyt
What could possibly be more exciting than sewing and blogging? Where are you?
November 8, 2012 at 11:44 am
sarah ott
I can’t even remember what link got me to your site but it was purely by accident (or fate) and I’ve been browsing your blog now for an hour! i love it! Needless to say, I’ll be back.
December 27, 2012 at 10:26 am
Claire (aka Seemane)
Happy Christmas Elaine! :)
December 28, 2012 at 3:35 pm
Juliet
Hhhmm, and here I was planning a coffee date dress…. I think I can wrangle out of the original…. and WOW! Your version is gorgeous!
December 29, 2012 at 8:23 pm
Stardust (@w4ssaB)
We miss you!! Its already the end of 2012… Here’s to a wonderful 2013 dear selfish!! Hope to see you come back soon, from the selfish desires of our little hearts who selfishly want you to spare some of your precious time hehehehe
January 4, 2013 at 8:39 pm
sara
Dear Selfish Seamstress, I miss you…please come back…howsabout a this is what I wore at New Year’s photo or something not too time consuming for busy you…a very hopeful reader
January 10, 2013 at 6:01 pm
woodenmonkey
Sigh… You are missed!
February 21, 2013 at 7:12 am
thisblogisnotforyou
Man, the stuff you make is awesome! Looking forward to seeing more of you!
April 23, 2013 at 6:25 pm
Yazmin
Whoa those just about look exactly alike.You’re amazing!
August 13, 2013 at 3:14 pm
Jackie Lee
I am not worthy!
March 28, 2014 at 2:36 pm
To bake or create
Forgive me as I’m a complete beginner but how do you add add the bow to the front of the dress? X
December 20, 2014 at 3:39 am
Michelle Kelly
Sooo i love what you’ve done here. I am desperate to get a knock off made of the Kate Spade Carolyn dress in this same way. Any chance you doing the same to that dress? X