About two weeks ago, Dan and I found ourselves with some vacation days to use and nowhere to go. After a quick consultation with our trusty advisor “The Internet” we had bargain flights and posh hotels booked and took off to Rome the following day. (Now, before you open your mouths to complain that Selfish doesn’t deserve the charmed life she leads, I should mention that this was no dream vacation. We were called back home after 3 days due to an emergency followed by a tragic and heartbreaking loss that I can’t even bear to talk about here, and that I wouldn’t wish upon any of my dear readers!)
Rome, as you may know, is home to something really big. Something amazing, huge, epic, and legendary that you can’t see anywhere else in the world. It’s so enormous, it’s monumental. One might even say it is … COLOSSAL.
That’s right, I’m talking about Fratelli Bassetti Tessuti.
Bassetti Tessuti (try saying it five times fast) claims to house upwards of 200,000 bolts of fabric. Selfish, as it turns out, is not good at visualizing large numbers of things. She know that she is 100 times awesomer than anyone she knows, and 1,000 times meaner. But what does 200,000 bolts of fabric mean? How many bolts are displayed in your average Jo-Ann? 2000? 10,000? What about the big Vogue fabrics flagship store in Evanston, IL? 20,000? 50,000? What about Mood in NYC? 100,000? 500,000? Seriously, I had no idea.
Well, after visiting Fratelli Basseti Tessuti (NY Times article here), I feel fairly sure that I had never before seen 200,000 bolts of fabric in one place. The place is an endless maze of rooms packed from floor to (very high) ceiling with bolts and bolts of Italian milled fabric. Room after room after room. Need some sweater knit? Here’s just one of multiple walls of the stuff:
Or perhaps you need some wool suiting? There’s a whole room’s worth:
And one for cotton shirting:
Just shirting here in this room, by the way. All the prints and other assorted cottons have their own rooms. And if you need something really posh?
Let’s take a closer look at this, shall we?
Versace, Gianfranco Ferre, Armani, Valentino, and other names I’d probably recognize if I were fancy enough to shop that room of the store.
This should have been heaven for Selfish, but as wonderful as the store is, I found it quite overwhelming. (Though lately I find even Mood and New York Elegant fabrics overwhelming, which is why I seem to spend most of my NY time at the more manageable Metro and Paron.) There’s no junk to be had at Bassetti- this stuff is high quality, and it looked like most (if not all) of the fabrics were Italian. I certainly didn’t find bargains either (though to be fair I only took a close look at about .0001% of what they had.) Wool coating and suiting looked to be upwards of 100 Euros per meter, and I didn’t even go near the silks or cashmeres. Selfish, who usually leaves no bolt unturned, was so intimidated by the sheer number of rooms and volume of fabrics, that she resorted to shopping by gut. If it didn’t catch my eye immediately on the wall, I moved on.
So what did I get? Surely even an overwhelmed and intimidated Selfish doesn’t leave a fabric monument empty handed. I ended up splurging on two pieces of beautiful stretch cotton sateen. Cotton sateen may not sound like a splurge fabric, but Bassuti prices put it somewhere upwards of Liberty fabric, albeit lower than Marimekko yardage. So we’re talking some posh cotton for a vacation splurge. And even though 200,000 bolts were vying for my attention, I did something that I never do- I bought the same fabric in two colorways – fuchsia and aqua. I just couldn’t decide which was more stunning and would make you more envious.
Although cheerful florals are rare in my stash, I have noticed that I have a particular weakness for florals without greenery. I find them somehow modern and edgy in a way that cuts the usual sweetness of floral prints. I just noticed that most of the floral prints in my stash are leaf-free.
The service here is very nice, with plenty of staff around who will gladly scurry up ladders to pull down the bolt all the way up top that you think could be pretty. And they don’t hold a grudge if it turns out that you’re not that into it. Interestingly, you pay for your purchases at this old school bank teller-esque window while a guy at another table holds your fabric hostage:
A mere two blocks from Fratelli Bassetti Tessuti, I also discovered the charming Fatucci Tessuti (try saying THAT five times fast), a much smaller store at Via dei Falegnami 63. It appears they have yet to invest in a sign.
The store is smaller, but it still boasts a lovely selection of high quality Italian fabrics. And the prices are much more splurgeable, as you can see:
Boiled wool coating at 18 Euros per meter, silks for 13 Euros per meter, etc. I love how they have it written up like a café menu. The proprietor was very helpful and I found this fabric shopping experience to be much more comfortable. Here are some of their silks and other offerings:
So what did I come out with? Surprise, it’s another greenery-free floral cotton!
This cotton is so smooth and silky and crisp it feels like a light taffeta. Using my broken Italian (which is actually better suited to fabric shopping than any other kind of shopping in Italy due to having read quite a number of La Mia Boutique issues) I first asked whether it was rayon because it was so smooth and sheen-y. Nope, 100% Italian cotton. I was drawn to it because these “tribal” prints are so popular and modern-looking right now. Though I don’t like referring to them as “tribal” because maybe actual tribespeople who read my blog are like, “Pfft. That’s not tribal. That’s fake tribal.” Hello, tribal readership- thanks for visiting The Selfish Seamstress!
After returning home, I discovered as I often do that the newest fabric in the stash is the most exciting. Out came one of the sateens and Simplicity 2473 (previously made up as the English Tutor Dress). Apologies- they’re not the best photos and the skirt is a little wrinkled from wearing, which I didn’t notice until after taking the pictures:
I wanted the midriff in a black contrast fabric. I found some black suiting remnants in my stash that I think are a poly or perhaps poly rayon blend. This seemed like a good idea because it had a little bit of a smooth sheen to it that I thought would go better with the sateen than a black wool flannel or other matte suiting. I’m not sure about it now though because it’s also got a little bit more drape than I was expecting, which causes the midriff to sag a little bit, making it look sort of like a cummerbund.
The slim skirt variation is shaped more like a straight skirt than a pencil skirt- it doesn’t taper to the knees. So I ended up skipping the back vent as there is plenty of walking ease (plus the stretch in the fabric). I also skipped the neck and arm facings and instead went for a full lining in ivory rayon (again, wrinkled from wear- sorry):
Here’s the back view- I used an invisible zipper:
And finally, here’s this shot that I took of myself sitting – I thought it would look all elegant and dreamy, but what it really does is make my *size 5* feet look huge!
I’ve got ideas for the “tribal” print though it may be a while until I get around to it. I’m not sure what I want to do with the aqua version of the floral sateen though, as I want it to be substantially different from the fuchsia version. Maybe something full-skirted and sundressy- something to wear on my next Italian vacation.
66 comments
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March 12, 2012 at 9:20 am
Funnygrrl
Wow! Gorgeous finds. I’d find it hard to resist the suitings.
The black waist was a great choice. Very flattering. Can’t wait to see what else you come up with!
Sorry for your loss. I understand not sharing here.
March 12, 2012 at 1:55 pm
selfishseamstress
thanks :)
March 12, 2012 at 9:20 am
Sewing Princess
Can you believe I lived in Rome for over 10 years and go back regularly and never knew about these shops? Love how your dressed turned out. I gave me another reason to go back to Rome now…
March 12, 2012 at 9:34 am
karen
OMG Selfish – how did you know that I am going to Rome in two weeks and that I planned to find fabric shops? Not only are you 100 times more awesome than anyone else, you’re also psychic. Thank you! It also amazes me that you know Italian, or at least enough to go shopping in an Italian fabric store. Nothing stops you, does it? Will I be able to make my way through these stores sans Italian fabric-speak? I can’t wait to try, and I’ll let you know how it turns out.
March 12, 2012 at 1:53 pm
selfishseamstress
100 times more awesome, but 1,000,000 times more egotistical :) My Italian is limited to greetings and pleasantries, food terminology, and whatever can be gleaned from La Mia Boutique, namely fiber and garment names and colors :) And it’s bad enough that people generally answered my questions in English. So yep- you’ll do just fine in those stores even if you don’t speak Italian. Pointing and writing numbers on scraps of paper help too :)
March 12, 2012 at 2:00 pm
karen
thanks for the vote of confidence, I’ll let you know how it goes!
March 12, 2012 at 9:41 am
Miss Celie
I’mo verwhelmed just looking at the photos. Srsly. I realize now I can’t manage those kinds of options.
March 12, 2012 at 9:42 am
Karin
Yup, it’s cheaper to buy Italian milled fabric in the USA than in Italy. It is however, cheaper to buy British wools in Britain than in America (based on my London/New York experience.) Funny. I wonder why that is?
March 12, 2012 at 9:55 am
Erin Cumming
It’s a great Monday morning when one of my favourite bloggers posts on the fabric store I was at in October on a trip to Italy that I won through work. My pictures are not as good. I was supremely overwhelmed when I was there—I told the girl that I went with that there was a distinct possibility that I would loose my mind and run from the building. I worked through my hot flashes and in the end bought 2 metres of houndstooth wool suiting for $30/m. I was in there for so little time that I thought I may have missed a sale room or something. Good to know that you had the same experience with the pricing. I’m planning on winning the same contest again this year, and going back. I’m excited to check out the other store you mentioned too. Thanks for the post!!
March 12, 2012 at 10:06 am
Claire (aka Seemane)
OMG – the photos of the fabric stors made me greenery with envy ;)
Dress looks great too Elaine!
March 12, 2012 at 10:08 am
Elizabeth
Great fabric finds! I especially like the tribal floral. And the cotton sateen dress is lovely.
March 12, 2012 at 10:49 am
Suzie
Wow – that first store would definitely overwhelm me…even if I knew exactly what I was looking for! Your dress is beautiful, I love the black waistband
March 12, 2012 at 11:00 am
Toby Wollin
OK..here’s the only word in Italian I know, “Bravo!!” The dress looks great. Actually all the fabrics look great and I certainly know of the ‘overwhelmed’ of which you speaketh. I can only go into a place such as even Mood or Parons with a specific shopping list in mind and ask the helpers things like, “I’m looking for lightweight medium grey wool flannel. Please show me where to go.” Otherwise, I start to get dizzy and have to sit down and there is never a place to sit down (much less get a cup of tea and a cookie) in these places so I’m better off with my shopping list.
March 12, 2012 at 1:55 pm
selfishseamstress
Oooh fabric store with tea and cookies is a really good idea. That’s how they keep people at Ikea for days on end- with cheap meatballs, right? Maybe I’ll open up a cookie stand right outside of Mood. Except I’d probably just eat all of the cookies myself and then waddle in to buy fabric.
March 12, 2012 at 11:07 am
emadethis
Bellissima! I had never thought about why I dislike traditional florals, but having “greenery” is surprisingly accurate. Certainly without the greenery, these prints look much more modern. I can’t imagine getting my head around that much fabric. I think my husband would cry on the spot at such a sight knowing what that would mean for my day. I can spend 3 hours at dinky little places. 200,000 bolts? Mind-boggling.
I’m sorry you were called back to such a sad situation. I wish you well and hope only good for you in the middle of it.
March 12, 2012 at 1:56 pm
selfishseamstress
:) thank you
March 12, 2012 at 11:18 am
June
I read somewhere that the “Great American Dream” (or Italian, in this case?) is to have unlimited options about everything, but time and time again, the humble brain seems to pull back when said scenario actually presents itself. You look lovely in the dress, GIANT FEET AND ALL (ha, joke), and I’m sorry for your (undisclosed) loss. To have something tragic happen is just awful, and to have it occur when you’re out of the country (and on a vacation to boot!) seems to make it many-fold worse.
March 12, 2012 at 2:11 pm
selfishseamstress
thanks :)
And here’s an interesting link:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Paradox_of_Choice:_Why_More_Is_Less
March 12, 2012 at 11:23 am
Jane's sew & tell
Wonderful fabric and lovely dress!
March 12, 2012 at 11:23 am
Bold Sewist
Fabulous dress – another uninspiring envelope reimagined as a gorgeous creation. And now I MUST get to Rome asap!
March 12, 2012 at 11:31 am
ette
How dare you posting photos of such shops online? I went to Florence last year, I don’t think my boyfriend would be happy if he has to spend his holidays in Italy this year, too. But after seing this I don’t know if I can bear to go anywhere else.
And I always imagined my former boss had a huge stock of fabrics (ok, nothing compared to this, but still much. Have a look: http://www.die-naehkiste.de/grosshandel.php ).
And I really adore the dress you made from the fabric. Elegant as always!
March 12, 2012 at 11:47 am
Lucy
STUNNING. I too would be majorly overwhelmed, but GOOD GOD that dress is GORGEOUS.
Sorry to hear about the aborted holiday, though, whatever its reason. I hope that things work themselves out as well as they can.
March 12, 2012 at 1:56 pm
selfishseamstress
thank you :)
March 12, 2012 at 11:53 am
LBergstrome
would love to shop there with an unlimited allowance… ah but wouldn’t we all. FYI I cancelled my email subscription and switched to RSS feed.
March 12, 2012 at 12:18 pm
oonaballoona
wow. am kicking myself for not having yet known how to sew when i was in rome. stupid past self. (i hope you get to go back, with no unhappy changes.)
March 12, 2012 at 1:58 pm
selfishseamstress
Thanks :)
As for Oona of yesteryear, perhaps had she known about Bassetti as a younger woman, she’d be in financial dire straits now. It looks pricey and habit-forming!
March 12, 2012 at 12:21 pm
leahfranqui
Number one, I do hope everything is all right. Number two, the term tribal makes me simultaneously laugh and shutter because it’s vaguely imperialist at the very least, and also, kind of bizarre. But this dress is lovely and I think I would have had a nervous breakdown at that first fabric store in Rome way to keep it together.
March 12, 2012 at 12:29 pm
sew2promarianna
Didn’t know about this store but I’ve promised my daughter a trip to Rome when she’s sixteen. May have to bring that forward a few years now the city’s list of attractions got bigger.
Hope you’re ok and wishing you a second chance of that holiday at some point. Love the dress.
March 12, 2012 at 1:59 pm
selfishseamstress
Thank you :)
Your daughter is a lucky girl. Not only is she getting a great present, but she’ll be able to run all over Rome by herself while mom peruses the silks!
March 12, 2012 at 12:37 pm
Jennifer Copeland-Escher
You look stunning in your no leaf dress! Well done.
March 12, 2012 at 12:52 pm
Peter
Not to sound grouchy, Selfish, but would you please do a conversion to dollars (and yards) for us Americans bumpkins? And smaller words please.
March 12, 2012 at 2:03 pm
selfishseamstress
Peter, the euro to dollar conversion is simple enough (1 euro = ~$1.30) but converting the fabric measurements are harder, since I believe you typically buy your dress fabric by the twin/full/queen/king unit, rather than by yards and inches?
March 12, 2012 at 1:14 pm
doihavetothink
I’m sorry for your loss. Peace and comfort be yours.
March 12, 2012 at 2:04 pm
selfishseamstress
thank you
:)
March 12, 2012 at 1:41 pm
Sassy T
Love the fabric.
March 12, 2012 at 1:49 pm
rosanne
I, too, happened across Bassetti while in Rome and it was overwhelming indeed. The fact that I had 2 salesmen trailing me – a younger man and an older man who tried to touch my rear end “accidentally” – didn’t really help the experience. I ended up leaving with several meters of lovely woolens and a silk floral print that are still tucked away awaiting divine inspiration. The younger one brought me to the sale room and also negotiated pricing – a new experience for one used to American retail practices…
I love the leafless floral dress! So polished and elegant!
March 12, 2012 at 1:51 pm
prttynpnk
Wow- that store may replace Colin Firth in some of my dreams….
March 12, 2012 at 2:06 pm
selfishseamstress
*gasp* Nothing can replace Mr. Darcy. Surely after you wander the aisles you’ll find him at the counter with his trusty shears, waiting to serve you.
March 12, 2012 at 2:11 pm
prttynpnk
In a wet broadcloth shirt….
March 12, 2012 at 2:18 pm
T. Sedai
Oh wow. Firstly I am sorry for your loss. Secondly, I am now going to have dreams of wandering these stores (or nightmares of being buried alive by all the bolts of fabric, though if one had to choose a way to go… death by Versace might not be that bad?). Thirdly, your fabric choices are stunning, and I love your dress. And lastly, I must now convince my sister who is studying in Europe to abandon all her frivolous possessions like clothes and books so she can use her precious baggage space to cart home fabric for me!
March 12, 2012 at 3:18 pm
Marie
As a boring stay at home midwestern wife I offer sincere thanks for the pictures of your travels. I cannot conceive of a fabric store that large. Just blows my mind. Love the dress you look stunning as always!
Sorry for your loss.
March 12, 2012 at 3:21 pm
symondezyn
Wow… I think my head would spin so fast in a place like that it’d likely come clean off!! LOL
Really, I am so impressed at your fabric choices, always…. first of all, I really love cotton sateen – isn’t it a gorgeous fabric to work with and wear? But your prints… I see them and go ‘I wouldn’t pick that’ but then I see them ON you and they’re breathtakingly perfect! You certainly have your style spot on, girl!! I love the contrast of the print against the simple lines of this dress, so pretty; and the black is a great choice!
March 12, 2012 at 3:25 pm
kathyh
I’m planning my trip to Sweden and Finland this summer and plan on buying fabric on my vacation – such similarities.
I have never had a problem buying fabric in any foreign country – possibly because the usual tourist does not fabric shop while ‘on tour’. I believe the salespeople are so overwhelmed at the awesomeness of me coming to their country simply to go to their fabric store that I am often inundated with simpering salespeople.
I might be the only person I know who knows every single fabric store in Maui and Kauai.
I really liked your raspberry floral. Waiting to see what the turquoise becomes. Both have that marimekko vibe.
I will remember to dis the greenery.
March 12, 2012 at 3:39 pm
Jenn Jenn
Selfish, I’m thinking of you. Sorry for your loss.
March 12, 2012 at 4:04 pm
Rebecca
Thanks for the shopping fabric in Rome tips. Will be there with my son (21) and daughter (18) in July – won’t they love that shop (jokes). Guess they will find something else to do for that day, or week…… I guess you don’t happen to know of any other fabric shops in Rome, or Florence, or Venice? Your dress looks great. I thought the black fabric WAS as cummerband until I read further down the page! It looks great as it is and I think it was a great choice to compliment the striking floral. Feet look cute huge (LOL) – I’ve got size 5 feet too and I’m always trying to find shoes that make them look bigger! Something a bit pointy works OK.
March 12, 2012 at 4:33 pm
Jean C.
Your dress turned out cute… I like you, like florals some with and some without greenery. It’s nice to have variety.
March 12, 2012 at 5:08 pm
Debi
holy cow! I need to book a flight to Rome pronto!!! Wow…thanks for sharing…I will definitely be heading to these two places at some point in the near future! Your dress looks amazing!
March 12, 2012 at 5:14 pm
The Slapdash Sewist
You are really making me want to take a trip to Rome! It didn’t occur to me to do fabric shopping while there. And your point about sewing Italian is hilarious; my sewing Spanish is pretty fluent, it’s just the day-to-day communication where I have a problem.
I am sorry to hear of your heartbreak.
March 12, 2012 at 6:42 pm
Elle C
Well, there is another sewing destination to add to the Lottery List. It is growing at an amazing place these days.
My condolences on your loss. I wish I had wiser, more helpful words, but alas I do not.
March 12, 2012 at 6:56 pm
poppykettle
Wow. Just wow. That is a LOT of fabric. I want to go to Rome just to go here! Your dress is gorgeous, too – of course.
March 12, 2012 at 8:06 pm
Lakaribane
Selfish, those pictures! I had to have a cookie, I was so lightheaded from simple representations of the fabric. I don’t dare imagine what it would feel like to be inside such a place.
March 12, 2012 at 9:29 pm
Mary in FL
Oh, now I really want to go back to Rome! I like the fabric you got!
March 12, 2012 at 9:30 pm
LindaL
Loved all the photos of the fabrics! Your dress links great on you!
March 13, 2012 at 5:46 am
sewhotmommi
OMG! I was there, I was there! I dragged my poor daughter there after I long day of sightseeing. I had the same reaction. How much fabric can fit into one place. I dug the check-out too, almost like bank tellers. Money, fabric one in the same.
March 13, 2012 at 7:38 am
StephC
I’m sorry for your loss..
but…
OMG OMG OMG. I want to go to Rome. Now. Right now. I know that won’t happen but next time I’m anywhere near that continent, I know where I’m visiting…
And your dress is super gorgeous, blah blah blah… ;) I’m digging the aqua colorway.
March 13, 2012 at 7:57 am
Linda
So sorry for your loss. I pray that you will receive healing for your heart.
March 14, 2012 at 6:22 am
Gail
Not sure which is more fabulous – the dress or that endless wall of fabric in Rome. Would you be offended if I said the latter?
March 14, 2012 at 9:08 am
Helen
Being a relative novice to dress-making, I tend to go for the “buy pattern first, then find fabric to make it up” approach. When you just go and buy fabric, how do you know how much to buy? Do you visualise what you’ll make, then reckon on average top = x length and ave dress = y length, or do you just buy the same of everything?
Sorry if you’ve responded to this on a previous post. Am new to your blog too, so not had time (yet) to read through your back catalogue.
March 20, 2012 at 6:13 am
Bronwen
Oooh, I wanted to ask this too.
Now just have to find an excuse to go to Rome.
I also wanted to add my condolences, very sorry to hear that you have had a loss.
March 14, 2012 at 4:08 pm
PendleStitches
Sending you my condolences at this sad time.
March 22, 2012 at 3:44 pm
frk.bustad
I’m going to Rome in the end of April!! So happy to find this post! Fratelli Bassetti Tessuti seams a bit intriguing, though, so I’m glad to hear that the service is good. I remember being quite frightened by B&J in NY, so i hope this makes me a little bit more prepared.
I hope time will heal your wounds!
August 25, 2012 at 7:46 pm
Susan
Your dress looks awesome! Ran into your blog while trying to locate Italian fabric stores in florence or roma. Going there in 2 weeks and my daughter’s souveneir request is italian silk shot. Where do you think i could find something affordable for her request? She is into making historically accurate reproductions for living history presentations.
January 31, 2013 at 12:51 am
Handmade for one year
That place looks incredible, but overwhelming.
Next time you’re in Chicago, you need to check out Textile Discount Outlet. It’s a two story plus basement warehouse full of fabric, and the prices are incredible!
May 28, 2013 at 11:30 am
Jane
Today I dragged my husband to Fatucci Tessuti as we are here for one week. I found this post and knew the 200,000 bolts at the other store would be too overwhelming for me ( it takes a long time to touch and ponder that many fabrics). Happy to report I found a jersey print and a beautiful silk that I purchase (1 meter each) for 25 euro. Happy and ready to return home. Thanks for your info which led me to this fabric bliss. Can’t wait figure out what to make with my new finds.
August 6, 2013 at 4:07 am
Jensin Sommer
Aloha and ni hao! Or perhaps buon giorno (sp?) is more appropriate, since I tap on the iPhone from our charming hotel in Trestevere part of Rome. Found your blog while researching fabric stores and hit the jackpot. Can’t wait to check the shops out and am hoping they’re air conditioned since it’s 97degrees and only 10am. If you visit Oahu (where I live) please be sure to check out Fabric Mart. Aloha and tzai jian!
Jensin (MIT – Made in Taiwan)
December 15, 2015 at 12:32 am
The Shopping and the Spoils… - Handmade by Carolyn
[…] and before we had headed off on our trip I had read about Fratelli Bassetti Tessuti in a really excellent review which is also on the store website, and from which I also borrowed the below photo of the […]