It’s been a really long time since anything in BurdaMag has gotten me rabidly tearing the patterns out of the magazine within a day of getting it, until now. I’d been anticipating the March 2012 issue since the first preview went online with this pretty twist-front dress:
This dress is pretty much the same idea as the twist front dress that I had long coveted from Pattern Magic, but had never gotten around to drafting:
And once again, my selfish sloth seemed to be on the verge of paying off- wait around long enough and someone will eventually do the hard part for me. Or so I thought. I was dismayed to discover that Burda 3-2012-108 is the one pattern in the issue drafted for tall women. Argh, tall women! Not only are they able to take full advantage of the top shelf of the kitchen cabinets, but they also get the twist dress pattern that I’ve been lazily waiting for someone to draft for *me*? I punch you in the knees, tall women- in the KNEES!
Determined not to be defeated by Burda’s 72-88 sizing, I graded it down two sizes to what I suppose could be called a size 68 and traced it out. I figured that if I made up the pattern as drafted for tall women, this would potentially result in 1) a lower waist seam than intended, 2) lower armsyces than intended, and 3) lots and lots of extra length. The first issue seemed desirable given my desire to avoid an empire waist (contrary to popular belief, empire waists do not flatter every figure, and Selfish is stubby proof of that), and the second and third issues seemed easily fixable. As you’ll recall, the Selfish Seamstress is almost as short as she is mean, but has a fairly average torso length, so it would really be more like editing a tall torso pattern for a regular torso and not for a petite one. As it turned out, the bodice as drafted hit just slightly above my natural waistline (not too empire-y), and the armscyes were fine as is- no edits necessary! I simply redrafted the hem to an even 25″ from the waist seam (before hemming), and I was off! (Super bonus- if you make it this short, you don’t need to trace out the additional skirt piece that you’re supposed to tape to the bottom of the main front piece to get the full length- you can just skip it entirely. Only four pattern pieces to trace- yay!)
I used a beautiful navy and white zigzag print cotton voile that I got from Metro over the holidays for a $6/yard steal. I fell for it at first sight, and then discovered only afterwards that it is, of course, Milly fabric. This stuff is like a magnet for me- I buy it when I don’t even intend to; I’m inexplicably drawn to it. I must have a Milly-dar. It turns out that this print has shown up in different fabrics, at different scales, and in different colors throughout the Milly line:
And now it’s a favorite in the Selfish line as well. When I saw the Burda 3-2012-108 dress and the way the stripes play around the twist front, I just knew I had to pull out my precious Milly zigzag voile.
I used some cotton silk voile to line the bodice, leftover from my Heidi Merrick-inspired dress. I’ve decided, by the way, that cotton and silk voile is the perfect lightweight lining. It is absolutely weightless and adds no stiffness at all and barely any body, being even softer and floatier than Bemberg rayon. The cotton content makes it relatively easy to handle, but the silk makes it smooth so it doesn’t cling to the outer fabric the way cotton batiste might. I didn’t have enough to do the skirt lining (which in this pattern is made separately from the rest of the dress and then attached at the end) so I need to get more to finish it. In the meantime, please stop trying to peek at my underwear through the zigzag fabric, ok? Seriously, stop. That’s just weird.
This pattern is fantastic- beautifully drafted and simple. I see myself with a couple more of these for summer. The skirt has just the right amount of flare:
And the best feature of the construction is that the bust of the finished dress is completely adjustable- no futzing with the pattern to get the bust to fit! Because of the way the twist is done, once you put it on, you can just sort of adjust the bodice fit by tugging a little at the looped-through front part of the skirt to get the bodice to lie taut against your torso. (Of course, you do have to make sure that you hem to skirt to an even length all around for *your* body. The more you’ve got up top, the less length you’ll have at the front of the skirt.)
The pattern is rated as a “challenging” 3 out of 4 dots, but I think this is only because the twist construction is unconventional. There’s actually nothing technically difficult about this pattern and an advanced beginner or intermediate sewer could easily put this dress together in a day or two. And this is the one pattern in the issue that has detailed, illustrated instructions (in the German edition at least), so deciphering the usually-cryptic BurdaSpeak isn’t so much of a problem.
So that’s it- short woman makes the Burda tall dress in unintentionally Milly fabric! I get the feeling that this is the dress I’ll be in all summer long. Get on it, petite (and average-height) online sewing world!
Of course, none of this changes the fact that I’m still short. Well, except for 5″ heels.
70 comments
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March 5, 2012 at 9:13 am
Kay Young
Oooh nice Burda tall dress in unintentionally Milly fabric! It’s lovely to see you posting again.
March 5, 2012 at 9:15 am
Elizabeth
Gorgeous! The fabric is just perfect for that dress. You almost make me want to get that issue of Burda. Almost.
March 5, 2012 at 9:17 am
karen
It looks really wonderful and I always mean to tell you that you have an excellent sense of fabric choice. I will not name names of course but I read a lot of sewing blogs and I am often disappointed with the fabric choices some sewers use that seem so obviously out of whack with the pattern choice. But you’re pattern-fabric combinations are always spot on – and reminds us all how important fabric choice is when making a garment. Brava SS!
March 5, 2012 at 9:18 am
Toby Wollin
clever girl!
March 5, 2012 at 9:20 am
Leigh Ann phillips
I love it and I love your nude shoes too!
March 5, 2012 at 9:29 am
Ar-Pia
I too recognize a “Pattern Magic” imprinting in this model, and I’m very happy someone else has drafted the pattern for me…. moreover, also in the Italian issue of Burdastyle magazine the pattern has detailed instructions, but I think I will go for the long version – apodictically presented as wedding gown… puah, I will make the summer dress everyone else thoroughly envy!
March 5, 2012 at 9:30 am
Lucy
I am 6’0″ tall and cannot wait to make this dress. I even went down to the local WH Smiths for the magazine yesterday, forgetting that as it was a Sunday then my local Smiths would be closed. But soon the pattern and the fabric and the gorgeous dress shall be all mine!!! Unadultered by my normal length alterations (I’m hoping)!!!
The only thing that is ringing alarm bells is the fact that the armscyes fit a knee-high-to-a-whatever-you-are with no shortening…
March 5, 2012 at 9:40 am
Rose
Lucy : I’m 5’11 and I didn’t have to do any length alteration to the muslin of this dress either, except shortening at the hem. Spooky.
I agree, this pattern is not difficult, once you get the hang of the knot. Plus it’s just a joy to sew !
Just one question : the bodice lining is not really a lining, more like underlining, right ?
I was puzzled by that at first. Plus I think the first paragraph of the French translation is wrong : they want you to apply the lining right side to the fabric’s wrong side. What does the English translation says ?
March 7, 2012 at 9:00 am
kathi giumentaro
Burda says the same in the English version. Right side of lining to wrong side of fabric doesn’t seem correct. I would put the wrong sides together.
March 5, 2012 at 10:00 am
Jennifer
The dress is so much more striking in the zigzag than in the magazine. Just captivating that the print fans out perfectly around the twist and hangs straight at the hem.
March 5, 2012 at 10:04 am
Redrockcity
Gorgeous!! I am wild with envy of both your dress and your “vision”. I had ignorantly dismissed this one as being only for those gazelle like creatures whose waists are at the same height as my shoulders.
I see will now have to devote every free moment to searching for the perfect fabric to make my own, crude copy of your beautiful creation. Curses!
March 5, 2012 at 10:05 am
Jane's sew & tell
Beautiful. I want to make it! And I want your shoes!
March 5, 2012 at 10:08 am
Susannah
Your version is far more attractive than the magazine’s. You may tempt me back to Burda with this one. You look fantastique!
March 5, 2012 at 10:28 am
enjoyingthejourneys
Reblogged this on Enjoying The Journeys.
March 5, 2012 at 10:30 am
LinB
Oh, so purty! I love navy-and-white for summer. And twist-front anything — nice that you were able to avoid drafting from scratch. Didn’t think you needed to line the skirt at all, until I saw the faintest, faintest show-through at the hem in one of your poses … was not able to discern any underwear. Wait, does that sound as creepy as I think it did, upon re-reading? Not meant as creepy. Nor to imply that you do not wear underwear. Will stop now.
March 5, 2012 at 10:31 am
Funnygrrl
Beautiful dress and gorgeous fabric. You’ll wear it plenty over the summer, I’m sure.
March 5, 2012 at 10:42 am
Claire (aka Seemane)
In the words of the immortal Spice Girls “A zig-a-zig-ahhh!“.
Me likey-lots :)
March 5, 2012 at 10:44 am
LLADYBIRD
I totally understand your lament of a short woman, but I must say I prefer being short over the idea of being tall – it’s easier to remove length than to add it. Plus, as you have pointed out, we can punch kneecaps >:)
March 5, 2012 at 10:51 am
emadethis
What a fantastic dress! I love how the zigzag skews in the twist. It’s so fun. Of course, dear Selfish, you are not helping me with my Milly love. Would that I had your Millydar–I’ve only been able to score 2 pieces of their beautiful fabric. But you knew that, and you’re gloating. [Sigh] I will sit and hope that by reading this post, I will absorb some of your precious gift for finding Milly.
March 5, 2012 at 11:25 am
Nancy Karpen
Gorgeous! The fabric is just perfect for the dress.
March 5, 2012 at 11:29 am
arenee2
Fantastic dress, SS. That zigzag stripe was a perfect choice. And it looks great on you.
March 5, 2012 at 11:39 am
Jessi
This dress looks fabulous! The fabric really works well with the twist.
I have to say, I don’t understand the notion of ‘drafted for tall women’, as far as I can tell ALL patterns are drafted for tall women. Even petite patterns are drafted for women taller than me (Vogue states the low range for their petite as 5’2″, for example), though those are obviously not for tall women, they still aren’t for short ones. Why will no one think of the shorties? 5’0″ really isn’t that short… my sister is 4’10”. Does anyone draft for us?
March 12, 2012 at 11:54 am
Lucy
Funny you should say that, Jessi – at 6’0″ tall I have what feels like the opposite experience. Burda say 5’9″ for their tall range patterns. All of the pattern lines must have to add in major length for their, uh, six foot tall models.
And many RTW shops that I have seen class 5’7″ as tall which is frankly just insulting!
March 12, 2012 at 12:04 pm
Jessi
I’m guessing no one feels like patterns are drafted for them. I need to work on alteration skills. I’ve gotten to where I can make garments that look close to RTW, but like RTW, nothing fits me well!
March 5, 2012 at 11:50 am
Catharina
You look amazing!! One of the best dresses you’ve made!
March 5, 2012 at 12:37 pm
HipDroppedStitches
Absolutely stunning…
March 5, 2012 at 12:47 pm
Tia Dia
It’s beautiful made up in the Milly fabric. But, of course, you already know that!
March 5, 2012 at 1:12 pm
Lisa
You look wonderful!
March 5, 2012 at 1:25 pm
Hannah Jean
I’m in love with those zig-zags coming in at the waist twist! Genius!
March 5, 2012 at 1:45 pm
spottedroo
Very cool. I also wanted to make this pattern— there’s some striped cotton I’ve been saving— and was so disappointed when it came out drafted for tall. When you say “graded the hem to 25” do you mean you redrafted it or just cut it off at the appropriate height once the dress was sewn?
March 5, 2012 at 2:54 pm
kathyh
Beautiful and Gorgeous.
March 5, 2012 at 3:02 pm
T. Sedai
Oooh, I love it! It looks great in your fabric. I actually made this dress two days ago (haven’t taken pictures yet), and it is fabulous. I think I possibly had to do more alterations than you did, though I am slightly taller than the average Burda height. I love your fabric though – and I agree, this is the perfect dress for summer. I want to make several more as well!
March 5, 2012 at 3:29 pm
symondezyn
Us tall girls have our drawbacks too… for example, those shoes you have on are divine, but I cannot wear such high heels, or I’ll tower over everyone, including my man!! LOL
Love the dress, it looks adorable on you – such a pretty silhouette with the slight flare of the skirt, and the fabric suits you perfectly :)
March 5, 2012 at 4:11 pm
Sassy T
Fabulous Dahhhhling lol
March 5, 2012 at 4:23 pm
Lisa Estrada
I love the dress! I’m 5’2″, so I think you should me one also. Oh wait, I forgot that you’re the SELFISH seamstress, so I guess I’m out of luck. Would it help to mention that we share the same birthday, and I’m turning 50 (sniff) this year? Seriously beautiful dress!
March 5, 2012 at 5:36 pm
Sharon
Another one hitting those tall girls in the knees, just love your dress. Thank you so much for reviewing it as this is a style I have been coveting as well.
March 5, 2012 at 5:42 pm
Crystal
Beautiful dress in a beautiful fabric
March 5, 2012 at 8:06 pm
BeccaA
Gorgeous dress! What a perfect combination of fabric and pattern. Your petite version looks so much nicer than Burda’s!
March 5, 2012 at 8:31 pm
Annie
Love, love, LOVE! I also have been coveting this pattern and was sorely disappointed when I saw it was a tall. I’m a whopping 5’1″ so it’s great to know its doable. Love your fabric too. It’s just perfect.
March 5, 2012 at 10:45 pm
Katherine
Adorable. You and the dress.
March 5, 2012 at 11:32 pm
Elaine (nobody you know)
Absolutely gorgeous in this fabric and on you. Inspirational, bordering on intimidating. On second thought, full on intimidating.
March 6, 2012 at 4:12 am
Gail
Love your dress. I don’t see this as a particularly good style for tall girls. the empire line could just be lengthening. Isn’t that what we shorties want?
March 6, 2012 at 4:45 am
Anne W
I had a slightly different reaction when I got the Burda. I had just spent a week fiddling with that pattern from the Pattern Magic books, and then sewn a dress it turns out I don’t even like! grrr I do want to do it again, in a cotton like yours. The fabric was definitely wrong, it needs something with a certain amount of body. Yours looks fabulous, enjoy making more throughout the summer.
March 6, 2012 at 5:48 am
MySummerTouch@gmail.com
Wow! Your dress looks much better than the one in Burda! Nice work!
March 6, 2012 at 8:13 am
Bobbins of Basil
I had barely even given the Burda pattern a second look because it looks terrible on the models. Looks so much better on you! I think it’s because of where the waistline hits. I wonder if I can maneuver that… I might have to lower the waist.
March 6, 2012 at 11:11 am
Burda Style March 2012 « Allison Victoria
[…] – A twist front dress. The Selfish Seamstress has already made this one up, despite whining about “lack of sewing time.” We all know […]
March 6, 2012 at 8:35 pm
aleah
I have never wanted a Burda Mag in my life… until now. Curse you and your envy-inducing twisty zig-zags! I want to make this dress THIS SECOND!
March 6, 2012 at 11:55 pm
Patti
Found some info. in the 9/2010 Burda issue on how to shorten or lengthen a pattern if it doesn’t include your size….Shorten a tall pattern to a standard size or a standard size to a half/petite size; lengthen a half/petite size to a standard size etc. It’s in the middle section with the sewing instructions, page 23. I haven’t tried it yet, but it seems like it would be very helpful. Love your dress! It looks fabulous on you!!
March 7, 2012 at 9:50 am
June
Tall women have got nuthin’ on ya! Well done. I too wish I had access to the highest cabinet levels. For all I know, 6’5″ (and long-armed) husband is stashing cookies up there.
March 7, 2012 at 11:54 am
The Slapdash Sewist
Oooh, I’m so glad you made this. I was wondering if I was going to have to make any changes, other than odious grading. Can’t wait to get this one done! It was my top pick on the magazine.
March 8, 2012 at 4:53 am
Sewing Princess
I wonder when magazines and pattern companies will make the petite/average their standard sizing…I’m 5.3
March 8, 2012 at 10:12 am
Siebensachen
Thank you, thank you, thank you for this review. It encouraged me to make this dress before summer. What you said about the adjustable bust section is very important to know.
And not to forget: your dress its just wonderful.
March 9, 2012 at 12:16 am
tara
Others have posted but I will say it again; great fabric choice, just perfect for the twist front. Dress looks great on you :)
March 9, 2012 at 5:29 am
Y
I really adore Milly prints. Great choice of fabric for the pattern (no pun intended!).
Speaking of having a Millydar, I seem to be inadvertently drawn towards Milly fabrics as well. I found a floral print silk charmeuse at NY Elegant Fabrics and fabric in this print at Vogue Fabrics without meaning to.
March 10, 2012 at 6:13 am
Jean
Beautifuuuul!! ♥ Glad to see your post!! =D Hope all your academic stuff go smoothly so we can see more of you here! hehe
March 10, 2012 at 9:51 am
gail
Gorgeous! I’m so happy to read your notes because this dress is the reason I bought the magazine – but I hadn’t read through it yet so I didn’t know it was sized for tall women (which I’m not!). I can’t imagine a better version than yours – the fabric is perfect.
March 10, 2012 at 5:30 pm
StephC
Looks cute. Good to see you back. :)
March 10, 2012 at 5:37 pm
Eva
Thank you for the tips! I want to make this dress too and I am not tall… :)
March 15, 2012 at 2:33 pm
Burda Challenge – March Plans | ReadyThreadSew
[…] how to do, and don’t particularly want to learn. Then I saw The Selfish Seamstress made a version without having to do too many alterations, so it became a maybe. Then I saw another version at Sew […]
April 4, 2012 at 6:35 am
Minka
Glad to see you back Selfish, we missed you! I know you wish to remain mean and selfish but if it’s not too much trouble would you mind inluding some inside garment pics sometimes? I love seeing the construction details and all that stuff that goes on on the inside of the garment.
April 13, 2012 at 12:56 am
Larissa
This dress looks fabulous on you – I’ve been looking at it on the Burda site for a while, and you may have just got me to give into temptation and make it …
May 5, 2012 at 8:45 am
lauren
This looks great! Now I really can’t wait to make one. Your tips are helpful too.
May 16, 2012 at 5:17 pm
Karen
So pretty! I just made this dress in scrap fabric to get the fit right….my first version is waaaay too low cut and I’m not sure how to raise the “V” in the middle to make the dress presentable outside the house :) since the bodice pattern piece is so unusual. Does anyone have any guidance? Thanks!
May 22, 2012 at 5:33 pm
the stitcherati
Great job! That fabric is gorgeous!
May 23, 2012 at 10:18 am
mad14kt
Wonderful! I love the fabric!!!
June 8, 2012 at 11:44 am
LolaT
I love this dress and have been scouring the internet and local fabric shops for a fabric like this to no avail. So frustrated! The only thing I found was a quilting cotton with a chevron stripe but it runs down the grain which means I would have to cut it perpendicular to the grain (and make it very short) Is that a bad idea?
June 29, 2012 at 6:33 pm
LolaT
Can you just tell me how tall you are and I’ll leave you alone. I need to know if a 25″ skirt length will be long enough for me too (I’m about 5’4″ size 4 to 6-ish) because I have to cut it against the grain and that’s about all I’ll have.
August 21, 2012 at 7:11 pm
DesignsByDenise
I have been thinking lately how much I HATE-HATE-HATE all those ugly zig-zag items that seem so popular right now (really-you all have to admit that there are some really UGLY ones out there), and then I see this beautiful dress that you’ve created and my jaw drops. It’s perfect. And no, I did NOT drool on my keyboard, although my lap is very glad I wasn’t eating chocolate while reading this. And where, pray tell, do you find cotton/silk voile? It seems that cotton/silk is a very difficult combo to find. Thank you for at least telling us where you got the cute printed voile. And it’s not $18 a yard. Total score – good for you!
December 28, 2012 at 10:32 pm
miz
Haha, you’re my type of seamstress! I, too, wait for someone else to do the heavy lifting ‘cuz I really don’t feel like figuring out how to do that crap. But that’s probably due to my inexperience as a seamstress. xD Lovely end result and thanks for your really descriptive takes on the fabrics you use. There’s so many blends, mixes, and hybrids that I can never imagine just the right fabric for any job.
Just discovered your blog today (and read more of your recent posts). I’m following! Best wishes in the new year and with future projects. <3
July 4, 2013 at 5:41 pm
Suse Salveson
Your sense of humor is fantastic! In the KNEES! Too funny. I come from a family of short women on my mother’s side: 4’11, 5″, and my mom is a whopping 5’2″. I, however, take after my father’s side and have more than once been the tallest person in the elevator ( I do SO love high, high heels) and the only woman. All I have learned is that youth is wasted on the young. It surely was on me! xox for an amazing website.