Hey, kids! Are you ready for some science? Of course you are! So, on the topic of the Fabric Mart “silk” versus the Denver Fabrics “acetate,” it’s time for a little experiment. After getting lots of helpful tips from readers and reading a bunch of web pages about burn testing fibers (not terribly consistent, by the way), I went to my local pharmacy after work and picked up some nail polish remover with acetone to see whether the fabric would dissolve in it, thus indicating acetate.
After my initial burn test I was fairly convinced that whatever the fabrics are, they are the same. Even so, I decided it would only be fair to test both of them. So I took a scrap of each and some glass yogurt jars, figuring that would be nice and non-reactive (I save them for when I make jam or pickles – useful and conveniently sized!) and here’s my experimental setup:
I then poured in a little bit of Cutex “Strengthening” Formula, enough to cover:
I kind of figured that if this fabric were acetate, there would be a rather immediate shriveling reaction, sort of like when you pour water on the Selfish Seamstress. But nothing happened. I swirled it around a bit. About fifteen minutes later, both swatches were still intact:
So. It’s been about a half hour now, and there’s little change except that it seems like maybe some of the blue dye has run off into the nail polish remover. Other than that, the fabric is holding up.
On the basis of this test, as well as the fact that the burn behavior of the swatch (crispy nubbins of black char on the burning edge, no obvious melting, self-extinguishing) was similar to my known-to-be-silk dupioni scrap (the dupioni feels, crumples, and smells like silk), I’m going to call this one in favor of Fabric Mart and declare both fabrics to be silk. I’ve already ruled out rayon, and I assume polyester and nylon would melt. Yay for science and observable phenomena!
Now, a little bit of sleuthing, as I think we were all a little bit skeptical and perhaps still are. How could Denver Fabrics possibly have listed a silk fabric as acetate, sold it at $3.75/yard, ad then put it on sale for $1.99/yard? Well, if you look at the fabric description, you’ll see there is another error:
The fabric is described as “jacquard,” which would suggest a pattern woven in different textures. This is incorrect- the fabric I received is definitely twill, with a consistent diagonal weave, and the design printed on. So what happened? A little poking around on Denver Fabrics’s website turns up several other “100% acetate” linings that have this pattern rendered in a single color at a 49″ width, such as this navy one:
Close inspection of the image suggests that this one actually *is* a jacquard in a solid color, and that the clover pattern is woven in (satin weave clovers on a matte ground, reversed on the other side), rather than printed as it is on my fabric. This lining is also available in all green, all pink, all purple, and a couple of other colors. My best guess is that the solid color ones actually are acetate, and that the whole bunch of rolls came from the same manufacturer in the same shipment along with my silk one, and whoever at Denver put them into the database didn’t take note of the oddball, other than that it was 5″ narrower.
So that’s how I’m going to explain this mystery to myself until any contradictory evidence presents itself. For those of you who were hoping I might write a nasty email biting the heads off of the folks at Fabric Mart, aren’t you happy just knowing that Denver Fabrics might one day send you surprise silk?
25 comments
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August 23, 2011 at 1:44 pm
ladykatza
SHE BLINDED ME WITH SCIENCE!! I ‘less than sign three’ you.
August 23, 2011 at 2:09 pm
Sally
I’ll admit I was extremely skeptical! I thought both would obviously turn out to be acetate – you didn’t mention the diagonal weave in your first post. I am pleasantly surprised by this result and it has restored my faith in the world just a little bit. I am now 0.1% less cynical than I was before. It’s a strange feeling.
August 23, 2011 at 2:19 pm
Dora
Interesting! I love your sleuthing with the jacquard.
Note to self: Melt some acetate with acetone to see how quickly it works…
August 23, 2011 at 8:30 pm
Deanna
I spilled some nail polish remover on a bedspread when I was a teenager… and learned that you can identify acetate in about thirty seconds by dissolving it with acetone. Ooops.
August 23, 2011 at 2:20 pm
jessica
Excellent sleuthing! Now you need to find some actual acetate so we can all hear what rate it dissolves in the acetone.
(my husband is a chemist and I got some “crystal” rhinestones that looked way too much like plastic. He took them to the lab and confirmed they were not plastic doing this sort of thing…likely just the crappiest leaded.glass available)
But, yay for.surprise silk, even if you have a ton now…
August 23, 2011 at 2:31 pm
Sara
Whew, my faith in fabricmart has been restored! i’ll probably still check out that giant bundle of silk i bought though. because i’m paranoid.
August 23, 2011 at 3:35 pm
RobinDenning
interesting! I am so glad you are back sewing and posting!
I loooooved your big ole bow /blouse.
August 23, 2011 at 3:37 pm
Sarah
I realize that not everyone has a microscope on their kitchen counter ( I am science geek, what can I say?) but you can also use a microscope to see the fiber differences.
August 23, 2011 at 4:40 pm
Meghan
I absolutely love this little story…and with a happy ending to boot! =D
August 23, 2011 at 5:36 pm
Julie
Doesn’t this leave you with unused acetone? At least request a refund of your expenditure. No point in being unselfish about it surely? Glad to see you back! :-)
August 23, 2011 at 6:33 pm
rippledandelion
Hey, I have a (marked as silk) scarf in that exact print but a gray and white colorway. It is marked Liz Claiborne, and I bought it, new in plastic, from Goodwill, where it was displayed with maybe 50 other like scarves in packaging. Wonder what the story is here? I really like the print, but the gray doesn’t look so great on me and I haven’t worn it. Hmmm, not a great bargain in that case, even at $1.
August 23, 2011 at 8:23 pm
Shams
I’m so glad this worked out to be a silk! I love FabricMart and would be sad to see them make such a mistake. I have had errors with Denver Fabrics, but so far only to the good (such as yours). For example, I ordered a corduroy from them that said 100% cotton. When it came, it had lycra in it, which I preferred! No question that it had lycra.
August 23, 2011 at 9:18 pm
Mel J
Talk about finding the silver lining! You can still use it for the coat of course, your plan is intact & the result will be that little bit more luxurious. WIN for you.
August 24, 2011 at 3:59 am
Rosesred
Suprise silk! My favorite kind! Is it going to be drapy enough for your shirtdress? For a burn test, I use a scrap about as big as you used for the aceton test. The smell still doesn’t tell me anything, but the way it burns and the ashes it leaves behind are much easier to identify that way.
August 24, 2011 at 8:01 am
Claire (aka Seemane)
Ah, in the face of empirical evidence you have an answer – yay!
August 24, 2011 at 9:00 am
Lucy
The equivalent test for silk is the bleach test – silk dissolves in bleach, synthetics do not.
I was very pleased when my 100% silk taffeta for £8.99/metre (36″ wide) turned out to indeed be silk. My instinct was WHAT, it can’t be silk at that price…. surely? But even £8.99 for 36″ wide silk taffeta doesn’t beat $3.75 for 44″ wide silk twill. Impressive!
August 24, 2011 at 11:32 pm
The Slapdash Sewist
Love the science experiment! For me, the conclusive silk burn test (and wool) is the smell of burning hair. I am fairly confident in my burn-testing skills, but would like to be able to figure out what fiber produces a smudgey, almost greasy ash. It’s not a synthetic, but I can’t figure out if it’s rayon, cotton, or something exotic like modal. Mysteries.
August 25, 2011 at 1:59 am
Tenshi
I am sure that you are aware of this in your greatness and just want to test your reader’s vigilance, but I still cannot not point out that your experiment is seriously lacking. The one thing it lacks is something I’ve been (metaphorically speaking) beaten up about several times in my so-called “career” as a grad and PhD student: controls! Where’s the positive control? Negative control? What about at least conducting the experiment in triplicates to get a semplance of statistical significancy? Statistical analysis and a t-test? Otherwise, you’ll never be able to publish this in Science or Nature… ;)
Or, in other words: Yay for science at home and empirical evidence in Real Life(tm)! And a triple cheer for surprise silk! How cool! I was almost certain the fabric would turn out to be acetate. What a nice thing to be wrong about, and, like Sally, I am now a fraction less cynical about this world.
August 25, 2011 at 2:08 pm
raquel from florida
I did the test with “real” acetate and acetone and the fabric did not dissolved. I’m afraid this test needs other conditions (like temperature, for example)
For me the acetone test alone is not conclusive, sorry. I will keep investigating
August 25, 2011 at 2:40 pm
dana
Know the quality of your reactants! I’ve done this experiment with my students (well, dissolving Styrofoam cups in nail polish remover). Make sure the remover is professional-grade (mostly acetone) rather than consumer grade (mostly water).
One (cheap-o) way to test the contents of the “acetone” is to just leave a few drops out on the counter (use a fan for ventilation… it smells!) It should evaporate in a matter of minutes if it’s mostly acetone. If it stays there, it’s mostly water and will make an unreliable test material.
September 5, 2011 at 9:03 am
In progress: Simplicity 2403 graphic silk shirtdress « The Selfish Seamstress
[…] fairy tale in which the evil stepsister comes out on top! (Incidentally, for those who followed the silk vs. acetate saga, the more I sew with it, the more convinced I become that it really is […]
September 7, 2011 at 9:53 pm
Tailypo
I would regularly follow Science with the Selfish Seamstress, btw.
October 18, 2011 at 11:51 pm
Su G
There is another way you can distinguish silks from synthetics, when you rub it one way it feels smooth but the other way it feels rough. I’m glad at least one of them turned out to be silk.
October 19, 2011 at 6:42 pm
Karen
There’s also the smell-it-when-it’s wet test. Silk has a distinctive odor when it’s wet. Some people love it, others hate it. I’m in the love it camp.
The more processed the silk, the less odor it will have, but my nose seems sensitive to still notice a difference between wet silk and wet acetate (which also has a distinct smell — to me — just not the same one as silk).
October 23, 2011 at 5:27 pm
jesus
The ultimate test should be acetone.
Anyways, you might be working with this rather expensive blend, called, tri-acetate. “tri-acetato” in spanish
It’s got, acetate, viscose, and poliéster. Some blends even contain a part silk a part triacetate.
Nevertheless triacetate is very deceiving, since acetate and viscose, burn on a similar fashion to natural fibers. And leave solid residues most times.
Compared to silk it is very easy to sew, so I guess its practical, it is sold in exclusive fabric retailers along other more authentic and expensive fabrics, silk wool, and expensive poli-blends.
Some synthetics won’t melt, unless you let the fire lit generously and provide it with abundant fabric.
So you can confuse them with natural fibers.
(by abundant I mean, a little stripe of fabric, as opposed to a tiny twisted thread.)