Yay! As I had hypothesized (and have now proven with a sample size n=1), wide leg pants do not turn petite women into stumps when correctly proportioned! My Vogue 1051 alice+olivia pants are done and I am celebrating by staring at them endlessly in the mirror. Plus- double whammy bonus- it turns out that cuffs don’t turn me into a stump either, despite conventional wisdom that short women should avoid cuffed trousers. It’s kind of great always being right about everything.
Well, I was off on one thing. Despite having made a muslin, when I sewed these up in the fashion fabric, the waistband ended up with some odd diagonal wrinkles in the front. It fit around my waist, but didn’t sit right. You’ll recall that the Selfish Seamstress lacks waist definition which means that she’s got a disproportionately ginormous waist by pattern sizing standards. Here’s the original waistband, and you can see that it tapers in quite a bit from the hip to waist, which the Selfish Seamstress does not:
So I traced the waistband did a little slash and spread to edit the pieces:
Normally I would have traced the slashed pieces onto other paper, but since I spread the slashes open only slightly, I just used some Scotch tape to hold everything in place. You can see here the resulting difference in the waist edge and curvature:
It looks minor, but altogether it added close to an inch to the waist circumference, which was enough to yield a good fit. And here’s the final waistband garment laid flat so you can see how much less tapered it is than the original
And yay! So flowy!
There are two tiny problems that are not going to stop me from wearing these all the time. First, I used a cream colored stretch cotton sateen remnant for the waistband facing (the pattern prescribes silk satin, and you can imagine how much of that I have lying around in my very practical stash). This peeks a tiny bit if you catch it at certain angles:
I may open out part of the waistband and add a tiny wool facing to the facing to fix it. A facing facing if you will. But I’m not terribly troubled by it. Nor am I troubled by the fact that the outlines of the back pockets show a bit through the fabric. The wool is so soft and comfy that it definitely feels better against my skin than a lining.
I haven’t got the buttons on the back pockets because I haven’t picked them out yet :)
I think it’s wide-leg love for your Selfish Seamstress. It doesn’t hurt that every time I tried them on while fitting them, Dan would look at me with a startled expression and exclaim, “You look so tall!” I guess that’s why I pay him the big bucks to be my arm candy.
If I haven’t sold you on making your own Vogue 1051 pants yet, here’s one last pitch:
This is so much more fun in wide-leg pants than skinnies.
79 comments
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August 17, 2010 at 8:30 am
sewforward
You have reconfirmed – once again! That it is “fit” that makes the clothes. I can were ANYTHING if it fits. Fit is the MOST important aspect of sewing.
August 17, 2010 at 8:30 am
Amy in TX
They are beautiful, and look great on you! But you already knew that :0)
August 17, 2010 at 8:33 am
seemane
Awesome-ness!
Q1: Will that style of waistband stretch out over time, i.e. do you think will you have to take it in a smidgen when you’ve worn it for a few months?
Q2: Re: the back pocket show-through, could you maybe sew some faux-pockets (to get the stylish look, but without the hassle of the pocket lining showing through) if you made a 2nd copy of these trousers – after all I don’t know many people who actually use their back pockets on pants LOL!
August 17, 2010 at 8:44 am
selfishseamstress
Good call on the fake pockets (though fake pockets remind me of the clothes I used to buy at cheapo stores when I was in my teens, sigh)- that might be a good solution. I also suspect this wouldn’t be a problem with a less-drapey fabric.
The waistband is pretty firm- it’s interfaced, and it’s faced with the cotton sateen which is a sturdy fabric. And the wool itself is relatively sturdy. I think that because it’s so wide, it’s acting more like a yoke than a waistband. So my intuition is that it’s going to stay put, but time will tell! Perhaps others who have made these pants can comment on the stability of the waistband?
August 17, 2010 at 11:55 am
~Sherry~
With the upper edge of waistlines like these I always insert tape, because over time they can stretch, especially in the curved/bias areas.
I did a tutorial once on my blog on how it is done, hidden somewhere under Tricks of the Trade – Facing an Invisible Zip, so hopefully this helps someone!
August 17, 2010 at 8:34 am
sewsister
Great pants, I want to try making my first pair very soon, this may be the pattern!
I noticed some strange pulling at the crotch on all your front facing photos. Is this just the way you were standing?
August 17, 2010 at 8:48 am
selfishseamstress
I tend to pose with one leg slightly bent in front of me because I’m bow-legged, which is a bad look for showing off clothes :) The fabric isn’t pulling- it’s folding into creases where my thigh meets my pelvis because that joint gets flexed inwards when I stand like that so the fabric gets compressed (you’ll notice it’s not creasing over my straight leg.) When I stand with both legs straight, the front is flat.
If you look at the back view, you’ll see that these pants are not very fitted through the thigh, so there’s really very little possibility that you’ll get any pulling with them. The waistband is the only fitted area. Good luck if you try them out- it’s a fun pattern!
August 17, 2010 at 8:39 am
Kay Young
They DO make you look tall! Really nice-looking pants, Your Selfishness.
August 17, 2010 at 8:55 am
annemarie
The pants are great, but your hair is FABULOUS!
August 17, 2010 at 9:21 am
selfishseamstress
Ooh, why thank you! It’s just lazy day hair (no styling, but I think I did brush it prior to taking the photos) and it’s long overdue for a trim :) Come visit more often, and bring your lovely compliments with you!
August 17, 2010 at 8:59 am
Reethi
Love it!!!! I am now inspired to go try these out. Ok, just to make sure, you didn’t touch the bottom width – right? Your pants are as wide on the bottom as the pattern draft?
August 17, 2010 at 9:07 am
selfishseamstress
Well, yes and no. The width is, for all intents and purposes, the same as prescribed by the pattern. But I did shorten the leg in three places by making three horizontal pleats in the pattern – one in the thigh, one at the knee, and one through the calf. And you know how when you make a petite alteration, then the edges of the pattern piece are no longer smooth and you have to trim them smooth? I had to do that below the calf pleat, so I probably ended up shaving off about 1/8″ – 3/16″ from either side, which in effect narrows the bottom opening, but probably not very noticeably. I didn’t make any edits for the express purpose of narrowing the leg. Good luck with them if you make them!
August 17, 2010 at 9:10 am
Reethi
Makes perfect sense, thanks! (And I now want to go try them out…)
August 17, 2010 at 9:02 am
amber
Dan is right, these do make you look tall! Fabulous pants – I’m so glad that you hit a home run with these beauties. :) I really, really need to try to make trousers already. Seeing as how BR, my go-to pants place, has made drastic changes to their current pant selection, I think I might be pantless this fall if I don’t try to make my own. Oh boy.
August 17, 2010 at 9:02 am
laurwyn
The are GORGEOUS! I actually never doubted it would work on your petite frame. If you think back to Charlies Angels, a while back, the girls were petite, and it didn’t stop them from wearing wide pants… Of course, I think that they won’t as good without the high heels, but that is true for everyone…
August 17, 2010 at 9:13 am
selfishseamstress
Hahaha! I got really excited at the idea that the Charlie’s Angels girls might have been petites too, so I looked up their heights :) Alas, they all had at least a six inches on me, with Kate Jackson a fashion model 5’9″ :)
But the exciting thing is that the heels I’m wearing in these pictures are only 2-2.5″, which for me is pretty comfortable for everyday wear. I thought I would have to wear them with my 3-3.5″ ones. I actually tried them on with a pair of 3.5″ heels and they were *gasp* too short! That made me feel so normal :D I definitely won’t wear them with flats though. In addition to not looking good, the cuffs would drag on the ground and wear out. And I love this fabric too much to let it wear out prematurely! :D
August 17, 2010 at 11:40 am
PetitePear
I think she’s referring to the new Charlie’s Angels: http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0160127/
Cameron Diaz is tall but Drew Barrymore is listed as 5’4″ and Lucy Liu as 5’3″ (which means they’re probably actually less than that since actors always inflate their heights!)
I love these pants on you. I have tried several pants muslin but the fit was so bad on all of them I got discouraged. With my pear shape, I have opposite problem you do. My hips are ginormous compared to the rest of me.
August 17, 2010 at 9:03 am
Kristie
Wow, those long legs!
August 17, 2010 at 9:04 am
Victoria
Fabulous pants. And great shoes!
August 17, 2010 at 9:08 am
janet
love your pants! i’m petite too and still learning how to get a good fit. Any chance you could give some tips on resizing patterns for a petite frame? i know i’m asking for a very unselfish deed! still i’ll check your archives, maybe you’ve already addressed this?
August 17, 2010 at 9:20 am
selfishseamstress
Hi Janet! I think the key is to figure out where you need to remove length, and not try to remove it all from the hem. For these pants I shortened the pattern in three places- once through the thigh, once at the knee, and once through the calf. This ensured that the knee falls in the right place and not somewhere around my calf. I didn’t shorten the pant through the rise because I have a long torso and the rise on non-petite pants is usually fine for me. If you have a petite torso, however, you may need to make this alteration as well. All in all, I think I removed about 5-6″ from the total length.
On most patterns, there’s a horizontal line drawn that shows you where to take out length for a petite alteration. You just fold out as much length as you want to remove at that line. The Vogue pattern has that line as well, but since I was removing so much, and not just a mere inch or two, I distributed it over the three locations.
It’s hard to explain petite alteration in general without illustrations, so I’d recommend checking out some books or online resources- once you start reading about it, it makes a lot of sense. Here’s a good starter:
http://www.burdastyle.com/techniques/burda-pattern-alteration-for-petites
Hope that helps!
August 17, 2010 at 9:10 am
Sarah N
I’m with you on these pants. I made them last year (your pockets look much better than mine). I’m 5’4″ and most of that’s not in my legs and I love the way these pants fit.
Thanks also for doing the bottom cuff. I’ve been shying away from that view because of the whole “cuffs make your legs look even shorter” thing, but now I think I will try it.
Beautiful work.
August 17, 2010 at 9:31 am
Erica B.
From that picture, I would never know that you were petite. You look very long. I love that pattern. I’ve made it several times myself.
August 17, 2010 at 9:43 am
Zeila
Terrific…especially the action shot. I have this pattern on my to do list, so now you’ve got me excited.
August 17, 2010 at 9:50 am
Kerry
I would totally wear these. I love that you are exactly my size with the same weirdo proportions, but more fashion forward and a better seamstress than I am. I can just sit back, wait for you to do something, then I can start planning my next project.
August 17, 2010 at 10:06 am
selfishseamstress
Hahaha, I love how you THINK that I’m the one making the decisions when in actuality my reasoning is more like, “Those wide-leg sailor pants look awesome on Kerry. Maybe I should make some wide leg pants too.” But I’m happy to take credit for being the brains behind our little two-person munchkin fashion revolution if you want to give it to me ;)
August 17, 2010 at 4:12 pm
brocadegoddess
After seeing your FANTASTIC pants, I was just thinking “Ooh! Sailor pants!” myself. I’ve always liked the look, but never thought it was possible for me. Thank you SelfishSeamstress for showing me that I CAN wear such pants too! What a great motivational sewer you are!
August 17, 2010 at 9:54 am
Leslie
Fantastic! They do really make you look tall, tall, tall.
August 17, 2010 at 10:07 am
Tanit-Isis
They look lovely! I suppose I should try and tackle wide-leg pants at some point… so much more grown-up and classy than the skinnies I usually wear.
August 17, 2010 at 10:09 am
Jen
I ADORE those pants! I’m tall myself with a 35″ inseam, so I usually wind up making alterations in the opposite direction. (I need to learn to do an alteration for a short waist–the last time I made pants like this, the waist-to-crotch length was inches too long and they looked ridiculous.) But these look phenomenal!
August 17, 2010 at 10:15 am
Elizabeth
My what a tall drink of water you are! Love your pants. They look fabulous. Thanks for describing all your changes in great detail. I might tackle these pants someday now. I love the look of them. There’s nothing like a swishy pant, I always say.
August 17, 2010 at 10:16 am
purplesews
You do, in fact, look really tall – I would guess your height much more than I suspect it is in that first photo. Also the pants are otherwise gorgeous.
August 17, 2010 at 10:33 am
Trudy Callan
I agree. You certainly do not look like a stump. You look fantastic. I love that last picture of you the best.
Trudy
http://www.sewingwithtrudy.blogspot.com
August 17, 2010 at 10:48 am
Ruth
I agree with Dan – not only do you not look stubby, but particularly when paired with that purple shirt they make you look positively tall!
August 17, 2010 at 10:53 am
Bhoomika
Whoa- you look tall! I am sold! (I am 5’2” and love me some cuffed wide leg pants)
August 17, 2010 at 11:04 am
Amanda S.
These are awesome! You are so right, they don’t make you look short at all. BTW, thanks for showing that slash and spread method for waistbands. I have the same issue as you in the waist area, and have never seen that done before. I suppose I could read a few books about fitting, but confess I find them utterly boring. Enjoy your new pants!
August 17, 2010 at 11:38 am
ellyjobell
I was looking at that pattern just the other day! I too am vertically challenged, but have never shied away from wide pants. Of course thats mostly because they disguise my chubby thighs…..
I will definately give this pattern a shot; your’s look fabulous.
August 17, 2010 at 11:40 am
Gordita
You DO look tall. And I am not at all surprised that you were right that the pants just need to be appropriately proportioned to a petite frame. You are awesome (as if you didn’t already know that).
August 17, 2010 at 11:46 am
Kihli
Quod erat demonstrandum! Yay!
August 17, 2010 at 12:09 pm
~Sherry~
You are right – they do look fabulous! And Dan is right too – they do make you look tall!
It just goes to show that whatever your size, if you are in proportion you are not really limited in what you can wear. But if you are disproportionate – say have short legs in proportion to the rest of your body – then I think you do need to be more careful.
You’re making me feel like I need some wide leg pants now!
August 17, 2010 at 12:20 pm
selfishseamstress
Oh, you’d be surprised how not “in proportion” I am :) I am ALL torso. I have the legs of a Kewpie doll. But I’m glad that the Vogue pants are disguising that enough to give the illusion of being “in proportion!”
August 17, 2010 at 12:25 pm
Venus de Hilo
Fabulous pants! I bought this pattern yesterday, heavily influenced by your first post about them, even though I have very different fit issues. That curved yoke will, I hope, work in my favor. Of course, there’s no chance I will look anywhere near as stupendous as Ms. Supreme Selfishness in my own pathetic version of this pattern, should I ever actually get around to making it.
August 17, 2010 at 12:29 pm
Robin Denning
VICTORY! You couldn’t any longer-legged. Fabulous!
August 17, 2010 at 1:14 pm
katy
wow-those pants look GREAT!
i’m on the petite size myself, height-wise, but have a rather curvy lower half – wide-legged cuffed pants are by far my favorite to wear. (as long as they fit properly!)
if i ever become brave enough to attempt pants-sewing, i just might have to try this pattern….
August 17, 2010 at 1:30 pm
beth
These look so awesome, I might just have to try a pair myself. I think that one thing that contributed to the success of the pattern is the relative fluidity of the fabric, I imagine those cuffs swish a little when you walk (don’t you love to swish??!)…. I completely agree that short girls can wear wide pants if the proportion is right, and it can be quite flattering, even for those girls that might have a little more junk in the trunk than you (such as myself) because the circumference at the bottom can balance out a wider hip/thigh, just so long as the thigh area is not too loose. Great job, once again, and thanks so much for your hilarious blog!
August 17, 2010 at 1:31 pm
beth
Um, and when I say “more junk in the trunk than you” I mean, ANY, because of course, you have none :)
August 17, 2010 at 1:49 pm
Victoria Baylor
Cute pants! I think they make your legs look longer! It’s a flattering look for you. And I agree, wide leg pants are way better than the skinny one’s (wink)!
August 17, 2010 at 1:54 pm
Debi
They look FABULOUS! I especially love the last photo!!!
August 17, 2010 at 1:57 pm
Angela
Those are fantastic!! Haha… you need an addendum to your mission statement saying something about out to disprove conventional fashion wisdom”. :)
August 17, 2010 at 2:20 pm
Colleen P.
Despite the fact that you’re very petite, and I am verging on plus sized, we have similar problems with pattern fitting on the lower half of the body-long torso, thicker than proportionate waist, legs somewhat short for height, somewhat narrower hips in proportion to the rest of the body etc. Your tips and experiments have really helped me figure out how to solve my own fitting problems, and I would never have thought that would be the case since you’re so small and I’m so NOT. Thank you!
August 17, 2010 at 2:57 pm
Angela
Dear SS,
Love the pants! Being a shorty myself, I feel your pain, and it’s nice to elongate with flared trousers. I have this pattern and can’t wait to make up a pair of these!
I do think that they would look better without the cuffs, though. There’s just something about that wide horizontal at the bottom that is not flattering to those of us of shorter stature.
August 17, 2010 at 3:01 pm
icansewthat
Hey there Bean Pole…when’s you get so tall? The pants look great! Congratulations…and enjoy!
August 17, 2010 at 3:18 pm
Jo @ To a Pretty LIfe
Those are aDORable pants! You do look really tall in these pictures. I love that last one ;-) I’ve been intrigued by wide-leg pants in the past, but every time I try some on, I look so wide, and yes, stumpy.
August 17, 2010 at 3:18 pm
Carol
I’ve tried to love this pattern. I’ve made two attempts and binned both of them. You make me think I want to have another go. Mmmm …
August 17, 2010 at 7:48 pm
Rachelle
Hmmmm. If you can make those work for you, I might as well try them for myself. You do look tall and willowy (sp). Are you sure you never walked the catwalk for Dior or Hilfiger??
August 17, 2010 at 8:30 pm
Katherine
Great job on the pants!
August 17, 2010 at 9:10 pm
Gail
According to Trinny and Susannah wide leg pants will lengthen the legs, not shorten them. They look fabulous on you and congrats on a great fit.
August 18, 2010 at 2:21 am
Marie-Christine
These look really good.
My own conclusion however was not that cuffs make you look stumpy in general, but that if you have stumpy legs cuff emphasize that fact. As you know, being short is not at all the same as having short legs, which is possible even if you’re not short at all..
August 18, 2010 at 12:27 pm
Hana - Marmota
That’s quite right. I, on the contrary, am about 164 cm tall, which is somewhere between short an normal. I have long torso and short legs. You couldn’t guess that from my height alone.
August 18, 2010 at 2:45 am
Roobeedoo
Fabulous! And I see you are wearing heels – definitely adding to the elgant long-legged look!
August 18, 2010 at 7:58 am
Samina
Those really look fantastic on you. Thanks for your mythbusting sewing/fitting lessons! Ooh, Mythbusters: The SS Edition. I like the title.
August 18, 2010 at 10:44 am
SydneyLynn
Not only do those pants look fantastic on you, but you look TALL. From the pictures alone, no one would know you aren’t 5’10”.
I am vertically challenged myself (nearly 5’3″) and began drafting and sewing my own pants this year from a custom sloper. Almost every style works now, so long as the proportions and fit are correct. Good work! And thanks for your fabulous–and dare I say generous–blog.
August 18, 2010 at 12:26 pm
Hana - Marmota
I thought: She looks tall! And then I read it’s exactly what Dan said.
OK. So you prove those recommendations are bogus. Are they bogus, too, for body types? (I don’t expect you to answer. I just wonder.)
Great job, overall. I hope they’ll last you, because you look really good in them.
August 18, 2010 at 1:15 pm
lorrwill
Crap girl you look 5’8″ or 5’10” in those pants. Me thinks I will have to look into this pants style of which you speak.
August 18, 2010 at 2:44 pm
Erin
The last photo reminds me of Charlie’s Angels. :)
August 18, 2010 at 4:09 pm
Maggie
nice work Selfish! wide legged are my favourite kind of pant.
August 18, 2010 at 4:10 pm
Michele
Can you stand one more comment telling you how awesome those pants are, and how awesome you look in them? When you can convince me that I will look JUST LIKE YOU in pants, then, I may sew some.
August 18, 2010 at 6:10 pm
Sarah M
Great pants, and especially love the cuffs. Thanks for detailing exactly what you did with the waistband.
August 19, 2010 at 7:33 am
Rosie
Great pants! You look great in them and I cannot believe that you have a “disproportionate” body.
August 19, 2010 at 8:16 am
senaSews
Wonderful and great fitting pants. It suits you perfectly and is very flattering. Proof by contradiction accomplished.
August 19, 2010 at 8:45 am
DorisL
Love the pants. Being petite myself, I visist your site often for inspiration.
August 20, 2010 at 8:21 am
The Slapdash Sewist
Fantastic pants! I might actually wear pants if I could turn out something this successful. However, the fly front scares me.
August 20, 2010 at 2:38 pm
Emily
There is an extremly good tutorial on burdastyle (I think) about doing a fly front. I use it every time I attempt to do one.
August 20, 2010 at 11:38 am
lulu
Thanks so much for showing the slash-and-spread technique! I have the same issue with tapered waistbands (and abnormally low hip-to-waist circumference ratio)
August 24, 2010 at 5:39 pm
Tasia
Oh I love these! It’s the second pair of wide-leg pants I’ve seen today that’s made me want to actually make pants. (Which i rarely/never make.) They’re so elegant and make you look tall – always a bonus!
August 29, 2010 at 8:50 am
And for my next trick… Carlos Miele? « The Selfish Seamstress
[…] I’m already picturing it with my Vogue 1051 alice + olivia pants! […]
August 30, 2010 at 8:58 am
Robin
Wow! I’ve just discovered your blog (after hearing about it from multiple people I met on the PR NYC Fabric Shopping meetup on Saturday) and I will definitely be reading it in the future. I also am petite and I have a pair of RTW wide leg pants that work very well on me because they fit perfectly, so thank you for confirming that the fashion magazines are wrong. Now I need to make myself a pair of these pants. I also lack waist definition, but am a little bootylicious, so I will have to see what further adjustments I will need. I will be using your approach for the waist though.
March 17, 2011 at 7:35 am
Jodi
I just saw your photo posted on Pinterest. Oh man, Those pants are so fantastic I want to learn to sew pants now. :) After I have a waist again. (I’m due in 2 weeks).
November 4, 2011 at 3:21 am
Getting a Handle On Pattern Alterations « 3 Hours Past the Edge of the World
[…] The good news is that if you can “diagnose” some of these issues, as a rule they’re not difficult to address and tend not to change much. I’m a pretty big believer in the idea that properly “altered” clothing will always look good, and that most people can pull off most styles if the pattern is adjusted well. […]