Things are going to get a little bit slow here in Selfish Seamstress Land (not officially a country, but it should be!) as the (future) in-laws have arrived in town for a weeklong visit. Fortunately for me, I adore my in-laws. I realize this must come as a shock since after all 1) they’re in-laws and 2) the Selfish Seamstress doesn’t really have the capacity to adore anyone but herself and her cat. So perhaps I just adore them to frustrate you with my contrariness. In fact, there may even be a chance that I’m halfway through knitting a handbag for my wonderful (future) mother-in-law just to disappoint you. Maybe.
Anyway, readers, sewing time is scarce now, and progress on the Vogue 1051 alice + olivia pants is temporarily on hold. But they are just inches from being done and looking gooooood so far. They’re lending credence to my theory that short women can indeed wear wide leg pants if they are proportioned correctly. So fellow munchkin-sized ladies, listen to ME and not your silly fashion magazines that try to tell you otherwise!
Speaking of long-held but shaky conventional fashion wisdom, I have a gripe that’s been simmering in my mind for a while now about seasonal color analysis and I want to gripe it all over you. Seasonal color analysis, for those of you who haven’t run into it yet, is based on the idea that you can determine what colors are most flattering on you based on your coloring- usually some combination of hair color, skin tone, and eye color, with hair color being the most mandatory across different ways of doing the analysis. Based on your coloring, you fall into one of four categories – Spring, Summer, Autumn, or Winter. Each category has recommended colors or color families that supposedly flatter you and, either explicitly or implicitly, colors that should be avoided.
Now, I completely buy the UNDERLYING CONCEPT. Certain skin tones and hair colors work well with certain garment colors and poorly with others (particularly when worn near the face) – I’m on board with this much. What gets me steamed, however, is the way in which most of the analyses and categorizations are done. I’ve looked at several websites for color analysis and they get detailed and subtle about some skin and hair tones- are you cool ash blonde? Honey blonde? Strawberry blonde? Is your hair light brown? Medium brown? Dark brown? Cool or warm brown? Is your skin porcelain? Ivory? Peach? Warm beige? Olive?
Well, guess what. If your hair is black, according to any analysis that I have seen, you are a winter. Now, let’s think about this for a second. Based on black hair alone (winter also includes some other hair colors), that winter category is going to contain the vast majority of people of Asian descent, the vast majority of people of ethnic African descent, the majority of Middle Easterners, the majority of Latinos, most Native Americans, most Australian aboriginals, a large number of European caucasians from countries such as Greece, Italy, Russia, and Spain, and a whole slew of other people besides. Now, I’m no expert on global demographics or population statistics, but I’m going guess very conservatively that people with black hair constitute more than half the world’s population. (And yes, I know there are exceptions, but don’t go bringing up the fact that you know an Indian woman who has beautiful natural red hair or a lovely blonde Puerto Rican as some sort of counterexample intended to prove that black hair isn’t actually that common. That would be what we call “flawed logic.”) So basically we’re talking about the majority of the world’s population supposedly only looking good in one quadrant of the color season spectrum, and the remaining cool blond/honey blond/light brown/chestnut brown/redhead folks sharing the other three quarters (not to mention that some of them also fall into the winter category)? I DON’T THINK SO.
The Selfish Seamstress has been labeled a “winter” more times than she can count by ladies who caution her not to wear off-white or brown in slavish adherence to a color categorization that is clearly flawed when it comes to her more-than-half of the population. (And besides, that’s obviously a load of crap because as we all know, the Selfish Seamstress looks awesome in EVERYTHING.) To take it to a point of extreme skepticism, I even suspect that the black-haired “winters” that the originators of color season analysis had in mind were not the beautiful ebony haired women of Ethiopia, Korea, Columbia, or Pakistan, but rather the raven-tressed Snow White type, with the rest of us tossed into that bin as an afterthought.
If you haven’t already figured out the rather sensitive point that I’m trying to make, I’ll just put it out there baldly- this system fails for women of color because it fails to acknowledge that women of color themselves are a spectrum, rather than a bunch of people who can be easily lumped into a single point on the spectrum. And I’m not just being pouty and pulling some “oppressed minority” BS. Even if I look at my own cousins, all of whom, like me, are of Asian descent, I can tell you that we all have black hair and we all look good in different colors. Some of them look lovely in pastels and some can really pull off brights. Some of us look good in rich, deep colors, and *gasp* some of us DON’T look good in black. What can possibly account for this variation? The fact that not all black-haired women have the same skin color.
And if it seems silly to suggest that any sort of system intended to offer generalizations should account for the comparatively small variations in skin tone among one Asian-American woman’s cousins, then let bump it up a notch and ask you this- what analysis method worth its salt would take women as varied in coloring and appearance as me, Reethi, Erica, Tany, Cidell, Susan, Meli88a, Ariel, Angela, and Carolyn and try to tell us that we all should stick to the same colors simply because we all have black hair? And meanwhile the analysis methods very considerately acknowledge the differences between Ms. Light Chestnut and Ms. Medium Chestnut by suggesting entirely different palettes for each? Pfffffffffffffffft. Let alone the social and racial implications of a system that puts me and most of the rest of the world into a box labeled “Other,” the system simply doesn’t work.
Like I said, I think there’s merit to the underlying idea that one can systematically provide useful color guidelines based on variation in skin tone and hair color. But seasonal color analysis is seriously weak if you aren’t Ms. Strawberry Blonde & Co., and I can’t take an analysis seriously if it doesn’t take me seriously. After all, I look fabulous in brown.
So don’t call me a winter.
93 comments
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August 15, 2010 at 4:25 am
Lisa
YES!! Thank you! I had always assumed that, since the seasons thing apparently only goes for white people, it could safely be considered archaic bunk. And yet, a bunch of my lady friends are OBSESSED with this to the point where they wont even try on something that *might* look good just because it’s not on their little color card. Well I find it a little “odd” that European people come in 4 flavors but evidently all Asians, Africans, Indians, Arabs, and Inuits are …the …same …color? Also, I’d like to add that my Cameroonian friend wears warm earth tones one day and bright magenta the next, and totally rocks them both in a big way.
August 15, 2010 at 5:07 am
RobinDenning
I think the color analysis thing was invented by some provincial caucasion ladies? As I recall, it was during the 1980’s and back then we didn’t have the internet. When some of us were younger, many years before you were born, and if we were lower middle class types in non-urban areas, we did not travel abroad. Our neighbors did not include many immigrants from other lands. So we were very provincial. We only saw other people who were just like us. So I guess I am saying the root cause might be ignorance.
But those of us who have left that environment and travelled and live among many nationalities are very happy to be less ignorant nowadays.
August 15, 2010 at 9:23 am
Oly
Yeah I noticed that already. It’s crap. About as relevant as a horoscope in a women’s mag.
August 15, 2010 at 5:10 am
Colleen P.
I am SO with you on this one-I’ve found the best way to decide if a color looks good on me is to TRY IT ON! If it can make you look good in fitting room light, it’s a winner! For heavens sake, I have trouble getting a decent foundation color simply because I have equal amounts of yellow and pink in my skin, so classifying me from that wouldn’t even work.
As a side note-I’m positive I’ve seen each of the women pictured in that sampling wearing colors that do not conform to their “season”, and looking fabulous. I think it’s a big fat expensive scam designed to sell otherwise intelligent women a big bundle of paint chips.
August 15, 2010 at 5:45 am
lauren
My mom got me a Color 1 analysis before she would let me buy makeup. The woman who did mine matched little color switches to every fleck of color in my eyes, hair and skin and then selected very precise compliments to each of the colors in me. I have a palate of probably 50 colors that work well for me. I agree that the season method is bunk, even for those of us that fit into the classifications, they aren’t very reliable.
August 15, 2010 at 5:52 am
Farah
Here! Here! Thank you for saying this. This brown girl with black hair agrees!
There are so many implications here, I don’t even know where to begin. While I can go on an on about how wrong this is, I will tell you that growing up in a Caucasian society as one of the only people of colour, I always had to feel that I didn’t quite fit. I never bothered getting colours done or anything like that, because I recognized that this system was not created for me. And I wear whatever I want. Bright crazy colours, neutrals, whatever.
August 15, 2010 at 5:54 am
Gorgeous Things
My MIL was totally into the “Color Me Beautiful” thing back in the 80s. She used to drive me crazy, telling me that I am an autumn and that I had to stop wearing reds and start wearing greens. She, on the other hand, was whatever color group had her wearing mauves and dusky tones. I always thought she looked like death warmed up, but of course since (unlike our dearest SS) I did not like my MIL at all, I couldn’t offer up my opinion without being branded as something less than nice.
August 15, 2010 at 6:02 am
Nancy K
When did anyone see a woman of color in one of these ridiculous color things? I have a cousin who swears by it, and let me tell you I don’t think much of her fashion sense. I do think that I look better in some colors than others, but certainly not to this narrow extreme that the season color system would have you believe. BS indeed. Great post.
August 15, 2010 at 6:08 am
Andrea
My mom, sister and I had “our colors done” back in the 80’s. We’re a family of black haired Italians (at least when I’m not coloring mine red). Mom and sis were labeled “autumns” and I was labeled a “summer”, strictly because my eyes are blue. This seasonal color business is over-simplified and outdated!
August 15, 2010 at 6:09 am
Hana - Marmota
Ha-ha. We’ve been wondering that for a while (and we means my all whites family). At one time, my mom was quite obsessed with this, and kept arranging and re-arranging our clothes and fabrics colour-wise. Just the way she thought one day a fabric went with one colour and the other day that it didn’t told me a bit about how much should I rely on this… I always trusted my colour sense more than hers.
I like the theory. It tells me I’m a summer, and most of the time I’m comfortable with that, but I tend to wear spring-y summery colours (beige, anyone?), and sometimes I wear what would probably account for a winter contrast, so – whatever. It helps as a starting point, but one should not be swallowed by it.
And don’t even get me started on skin tones. The texts I’ve read on this told me that I, as a summer, “do not tan easily, and if, then into an olive colour”. Take a look at olives, and then take a look at me when I’m tanned (which, admittedly, realy doesn’t happen that often). I, personally, don’t see much similarity.
August 15, 2010 at 6:18 am
Hana - Marmota
P.S. And following colour advice on computer would be the craziest thing to do. Monitor settings, you see. If I look away from that swatch you posted – because those colours must look differently on different monitors – what I’m left with doesn’t tell me much, does it?
So yes, the best thing to do is take a colour and see if it works.
Phew. I didn’t know I felt so strongly about the subject!
August 15, 2010 at 6:22 am
Maggie
You are totally right Selfish, its all about skin tone, not your hair colour. I never would have been able to code myself from a questionaire, the lady who did me put large fabric swatches from the different ‘seasons’ under my chin and when you see it like that it is pretty clear. I was devestated to found out I was a summer and supposed to wear pastels, but there was no denying it, the wrong colours can make the average mortal look rather sick.
August 15, 2010 at 6:26 am
Karin
I don’t think that 80’s Colour Me Beautiful stuff really worked perfectly for anyone. Even white girls. You are right, people are individual. There is no shortcut for taking a look at yourself and figuring out what looks nice.
Having said that. There is a huge appetite for this stuff and you have spotted a 3 billion strong gap in the market!
August 15, 2010 at 6:57 am
SadieK
Yes, thank you! I hate this ridiculous attempt at scientific categorization of what colors looks nice on people. It doesn’t even matter what your skin tone, anyway. You can wear the colors you like as long as you don’t wear colors that wash you out too close to your face. (Like no orange blouse for me, but an orange belt, shoes, or skirt can be awesome. Or even a orange dress with a contrasting scarf). Screw rules and categories. I wear what I like. I believe my ability to wear black/brown, pure white and cream is a superpower (also my be reflective of the fact my hair is black with natural red highlights, and my skin is much darker than J. Alba’s).
August 15, 2010 at 7:29 am
jillyb3
Well said! I have my own problem with this seasons coloring business–as a blonde white girl, it has always annoyed me that magazines often show as an example a celebrity who has dyed her hair blonde!! Like Ms. Spring up there in your example–she maybe be some sort of blonde, but her natural color is not the one that she is sporting in the photo. How well does this system work if you can dye your hair and suddenly change seasons?
August 15, 2010 at 7:49 am
Melody
Useless dreck. This kind of crap falls into the same category as Amway, Myers-Briggs Type Indicator, horoscopes, and any other meaningless hucksterism people use to try and find direction, meaning and mentoring. It drives me nuts that so many snake-oil salesmen have made so much money on this and that so many people buy into it. Selfish, excellent post.
August 15, 2010 at 7:49 am
Beangirl
Actually, the original Seasonal color lady (well, I don’t know that she invented the concept, but she’s the one who made the whole thing famous in the 70s) actually uses a black woman as her example of a Summer. She was not stuck on “black hair = winter”. This is an over-simplification that occured as other sources picked up this concept, because in fact they were avoiding a harsh truth: you can’t determine someone’s season by verbally describing their coloring. Unless they are VERY obviously in one category or another. Which is unusual.
The color/season system works. In fact, it works really well. But you have to run your colors to figure it out, you can’t just guess based on some arbirtrary verbal system.
Sorry to ramble, I have issues with this whole color thing, not with what you’re saying about. I don’t think there’s a problem with the seasonal concept. I think there’s a problem with fashion magazines who baldly misapply it and (as you say) pretty much ignore anyone who’s not blonde and fair skinned.
(Also, I would not have pegged you as a winter at first glance. If it makes you feel better.)
August 15, 2010 at 7:51 am
Mardel
I think it is a very narrow minded system and have long thought so, even though I am caucasian and have dark hair and fair skin. My mom was really into this and I had my colors done several times, usually at her insistence. I was called a winter 2x, an autumn 1x, and finally a summer 1x. That last time was by Donna Fuji who also worked out an extension of the system for black, hispanic, and asian women, each with their own 4 color categories. I’m not sure how accurate this system is because as I said, I think the entire thing is too narrow minded and formulaic. I can say that even Donna Fuji called me a summer, she didn’t limit my colors exclusively to that season and gave me colors from three seasons; she also told me to avoid certain “summer” colors, which I already knew made me look like death warmed over. I mention Fuji because she pegged my colors closest to the colors I actually wear and love.
I honestly think if we all wear what we love and are personally drawn too, we will look good. I think we know this instinctively, but often culture tries to beat it out of us.
August 15, 2010 at 7:52 am
Pammie
I’m glad you pointed this out. You are certainly correct. I never bought off on this scheme. I am a blond haired blue eyed gal and I have NO tan. And my skin is very different almost from every other blonde I now – I have very light almost reddish skin. . . Spring of course doesn’t work for me and neither does any other single system. The fact that you have correctly analyzed that this also groups half of the world’s population into winter is genius:)
August 15, 2010 at 7:56 am
Rachel
I’ve seen the original Color Me Beautiful book from the 70s or 80s and the defining factor isn’t hair color. It’s the undertone of your skin.
That being said, there are a lot of flaws in the idea. Your point that most of the women in the world are being crammed into one season is true. The original book says as much. I don’t have it on hand, or I’d quote it.
Personally, I have natural red in my hair and blue undertones in my skin, which lands me with one foot in Spring and the other in Summer. It’s frustrating. And don’t get me started on the skin care quizzes that assume that skin that freckles can’t be oily…
August 15, 2010 at 8:00 am
Celkalee
I don’t really think that most women these days fall for such an over-simplified system. At the time, it was new & innovative. We have access to so much information now and we have more confidence in our choices…don’t you think? I am ivory white with freckles and black hair, brown eyes. (Dad was a redhead, thus the freckles!) It didn’t resonate with me then, but now I can see how the general categories can assist in developing a plan. I think mostly everyone can wear mostly any color in some way. Sometimes, adjusting the shade or hue of a color makes all the difference. The huge bonus, as sewists, is our ability to choose the color, shade, hue of what we make to best flatter our “colors!”
August 15, 2010 at 8:19 am
Claire Ramsey
My mom and one of my sisters got all into getting their colors done in the 80s and ended up lugging around little plastic albums of paint chips and swatches. And all I could think at the time was “Who got the stupid idea that women can’t figure out for themselves 1. the colors they like and 2. the colors they feel like putting on in the morning?” If one considers herself an art project, my current fashion philosophy, she doesn’t need some outsider who doesn’t even KNOW HER foisting silly rules on her closet and fabric stash.
And Dear Selfish you are so right about the way the silly rules offer one (1) category for most of the world’s women. Another commenter got it right – It slices! It dices! Not Available In Any Store! And less useful than the Ronco Pocket Fisherman. . .
Brava brava Selfish Seamstress!
August 15, 2010 at 8:20 am
Hearthrose
I love the seasonal analysis… but using hair is silly, you have to use skin, and you have to play “drape the color”. I think, honestly, because I’m a wee bit obsessed with playing amateur color consultant, that women of color need their own seasons, because the traditional ones don’t quite fit.
For instance, many women of color look good in warm rich colors (some autumn shades) AND half of the “winter” colors as well. But how do you say, “lovely Indian woman, you can wear colors that make me look violently unwell, even though we both wear warm rich colors?” without confusing the legion of women who can’t tell aqua from pastel green?
Having done my own colors and knowing them is of great help. Helping other women find the colors that make them POP instead of drab makes me happy – but you *don’t* do that with just hair, and you have to be willing to get out there and do the footwork!
August 15, 2010 at 8:42 am
Noile
Robin Denning said:
I think the color analysis thing was invented by some provincial caucasion ladies?
————————–
Bingo! As a less-provincial “Caucasian” “lady”, I always thought this was the dumbest thing possible. There were tons of books, color charts and so on, as well as consulting services all of which could be bought, all based on this seasonal stuff that related only to part of the world’s consumers. Not only that, but, as Selfish points out, the smaller portion! By and for “white” people who could only see “white” as far as they looked.
The whole pitch was definitely a “white” people thing, as were the customers. That’s because, before the Internet, “other” people didn’t exist! Surprising, I know . . . but hey, score one for the Internet. Now people have to work really hard to sustain a belief that only their demographic exists. Which is a definite improvement over old skool, even if the message is still imperfectly disseminated.
August 15, 2010 at 9:00 am
Margaret
I found the original “Color Me Beautiful” very freeing; it was wonderful, coming out of the earth-tone 70’s, to know it wasn’t My Fault that olive and camel and rust made me look half dead.
But even back then it was clear that the system had limited usefulness for non-white women. Have you taken a look at “Color With Style” by Donna Fujii? She certainly tries to address the wide range of skin tones we have on this planet.
August 15, 2010 at 9:12 am
Sandi
I have always had a problem with the concept that there are only four possible color palettes. It really is rather limiting, no? I remember reading that Color Me Beautiful book when I was a preteen and trying to figure out style and whatnot. It wasn’t really obvious to me what I was, but more what I was not – a winter. I look like crap in all of the winter colors in any quantity near my face and they are the ones I’m least drawn to. I trust my own color sense a lot more than someone who writes a book trying to pigeonhole everyone into four rigid categories.
August 15, 2010 at 9:21 am
purpleshoes
Haha, as one of the Precious Individual White Ladies who has been shoved into pink since early childhood (because it suits my delicate summer coloring – I hate pink and crave burgundy with my whole soul) I have my own reasons for resenting this system, but the one you’ve pointed out are a lot more broadly applicable. It’s something I’ve thought but never articulated – like, when is it ever acceptable to say “and I can’t tell any people from other ethnic groups apart, so I’m going to assume the same things apply to all of them!”. Last I checked that was one of those basic human no-nos.
… I still have my swatch, though.
August 15, 2010 at 9:34 am
Gigi
My old neighbor was a color analyst. Any really good color analyst would not categorize anyone based on hair color alone. Skintone is actually the deciding factor. Just as a blonde can be either warm or cool, so can a brunette. The only hair color that really can’t go both ways is red.
August 15, 2010 at 2:27 pm
Miss Red
“The only hair color that really can’t go both ways is red.”
Oh gosh. I was with you until that last sentence. I really do not want to cause offence but that is nonsense!! As a Scottish redhead (13% of our population is red haired as opposed to around 2% in the US) I can assure you that we are a spectrum indeed. Red hair ranges from palest strawberry blonde through to auburns and indeed darkest brown that glints indisputably red in the sun -with skin tones varying accordingly! Florid skin, pale and creamy cool celtic complexions -red hair also appears naturally in the middle east and so there is also a more sallow redhead present in the gene pool. Perhaps this inability to recognise that ‘colour’ when applied to humans is a complex multi faceted issue (hair, eyes AND skin) is the real failing of seasonal colour analysis.
So please be aware that it lets down white women too -I believe it cannot effectively categorise any minority. As a young women with the sort of red haired celtic colouring that has department store makeup artists flocking to her, I can honestly say that I’m yet to receive a ‘makeover’ that didn’t leave me looking jaundiced and/or bruised -please save me from autumn categorisations and thoughts of ‘warm’ tones!
September 24, 2010 at 5:44 am
anne
Not only that, but they use colours that are too strong, and I end up looking tarty or like a clown. The best one I went to recently was a lovely drag queen, who very carefully did a very subtle job.
My tip – I’ve _never_ had an olive-skinned person do a good job on me – they just don’t seem to understand cool-toned pale skin.
August 15, 2010 at 10:11 am
Sarah M
This color thing really strikes a nerve, doesn’t it? I think that if you care about sewing, you probably care very deeply about color. I will say that it seems that colors that look best on me have changed as I’ve aged, and don’t be afraid to try something new. Hard to believe, but in the ’80’s, the company I worked for PAID for the customer-facing managers to have their colors ‘done’ by a poorly trained “Color Me Beautiful” consultant, along with other, equally useless, life-coaching type drivel. I did love my little swatch book, but I love my ginormous paint swatch wheel even more.
August 15, 2010 at 10:41 am
corinnea
I too was classified as a winter and I too choose to flout this classification and wear what ever makes me happy, brown being one of my favorites. That being said I try to be careful with the shades and tones…..
August 15, 2010 at 11:02 am
kate C.
this is right on. I’m one of those blondes, but never really paid attention to that season crap. It’s crap for many reasons, not the least because it’s completely racist.
August 15, 2010 at 11:12 am
Katie B.
I’m white. My ancestors are nearly all Northern European, and it shows – dark brown hair, very light-colored skin that crisps in the sun. My mom had the Color Me Beautiful books, and we enjoyed looking through them (and mocking them as needed).. and typing ourselves, because it’s like reading through the PDR: you can’t help but diagnose yourself with everything. She and I, btw, are both pretty solidly winters. Or am I?
As I’ve gotten older, I’ve come to realize that my skin has a slight olive undertone, just enough to keep me from being *exactly* fish belly white, and I’ve come to realize that not only do I love the palette winters are allotted, but I also like a few corals, oranges, and pinks. I look god in them, too. So am I really a summer? I don’t think so. I think the answer is, as so many other commenters have said, that it’s not so simple as four rigid categories. They’re a place to start, but by no means the be-all and end-all.
BTW, I’d never place someone because of hair color. It can be one aspect, but skin tone is way more important – and I would NOT automatically call you a winter.
August 15, 2010 at 11:59 am
tailyposews
I’ll 3rd Mardel and Margaret’s shout-out to Donna Fujii
http://www.donnafujii.com/df_html/index.html
and would love to know if you have taken her online self-test and if so, what you think of it.
Speaking as one of those strawberry blondies you mentioned, even I am driven crazy by the seasonal thing because I look awful and overpowered by many of the ‘Autumn’ colors. Donna’s color guide specifies that I need low contrast colors since I am, for better or worse, basically a big old monochromatic slab of pale amber (strawberry blonde hair, amber eyes, skin with a gold tone). I am so happy with Donna’s color theory that I bought her book of fabric color swatches and take it with me when I fabric shop (and I am an infamous cheapskate and skeptic, so that speaks volumes)
August 15, 2010 at 12:09 pm
jana
Hm, luckily for me, I´ve never been able to recognise which “season” I am… summer, winter…? I don´t know! Am I stupid? Probably, but I don´t care :).
August 15, 2010 at 12:32 pm
Mary Nanna
How funny – this week some friends came round and I did “their colours.” It is based on the system of matching their skin hair and eyes to swatches and from there basing colours solely on what those swatches go with. It is based loosely on the categorising into light medium or dark tones and looking at how those colours relate to each other and what kind of colours they are (intense, low contrast, muted) etc.
The idea of “having colours” has a noble pedigree. It goes back to the Bauhaus movement when an art teacher discovered his pupils painted pictures in the colours that they looked best in. The original idea is that we naturally, intuitively are drawn to colours that suit us the best.
Despite having a good idea for colours that suit other people I pay no attention to any kind of catagorisation myself. In that respect I’m a purist – if I like it, I wear it – it’s that simple, but I find that if I make something in a colour that doesn’t suit me, I don’t like wearing it.
August 15, 2010 at 1:02 pm
Jeanne B.
Excellent post, my friend! You are so right. Can I go further and say that even with dye and paint chips, black is not black? It’s always black with an overtone. White is not white, it’s a super-high tint of some color. There is no such thing as “pure” white or black in paint and dye, why would there be in skin color?
And, what do we do with someone who grew up thinking she’s white, only to discover in her 40s the real reason her coloring doesn’t fit the CMB profiles is because she’s actually Irish, Dutch, German, and—surprise—Cherokee? Ah, the blessings of being adopted then finding your true heritage in mid-life.
So that explains why my rather light can-certainly-pass-as-white skin tans to a reddish color rather than golden brown; why my dark brunette hair has warm gold AND cool red tones and is nearly impossible to match; why the hair dye with red tones looks orange on me and the blue-blacks and neutral browns too flat; why I look better when I dye my hair dark almost-black with violet-red undertones; and how I can still have emerald green eyes with gold flecks.
Dark brown hair, cool red/warm gold undertones; light skin with a reddish cast; green eyes with gold flecks. What season is THAT?!? And @Gigi, reds can be warm and cool, too. Cranberry is a cool red. Red tones in dark hair can lean towards cool rather than warm tones, as do mine.
My favorite color is eggplant. That and emerald/forest green look stellar on me. I look great in warm blues (turquoise) but not cool blues (navy), all greens except those with a lot of yellow in them; all reds on the neutral to cool end of the spectrum (no fire engine, please); cool browns AND rust; pretty much all shades of violet. I fade in pastels, except for pastel lilac. I look awful in jewel/bright tones. I can wear black, grey, and brown, but as for whites or light neutrals like beige? I try to avoid those. I can wear crisp white when I’m tanned but that’s about it. When I hold up anything yellow or orange EXCEPT for that one shade of light whipped butter, people hand me a bucket.
I don’t know what season I am. But that’s OK. When I hold it up or try it on and my hair color suddenly looks “right” and my eye color pops and I look healthy and alive, I buy it. Now if the hair dye people would add a fourth range of “caucasian” products with red-violet tones in them as opposed to warm red, golden, or neutral, I’d be really happy. One company did make a Blackberry color that was PERFECT, but naturally, it was discontinued.
August 15, 2010 at 2:16 pm
Anna
I never really followed any colour schemes (mostly because I wasn’t around yet when they were “the thing”) so I don’t know much about this stuff. But from what I gather, the whole seasons thing was “invented” by caucasian/white (or whatever you want to call them) ladies for other caucasion/white ladies, and thus might not work on people of colour.
Which does make it stupid to go ’round telling you that you’re a winter and therefore should never wear _____ .
(But it also makes it kind of silly to bash the system based on the fact that it will not work for a large part of the worlds population. It might be a stupid system anyway, but the point you’re making is kind of…. obvious?)
August 15, 2010 at 2:43 pm
~Sherry~
You are totally right of course! I find they always tend to assume brunettes have brown eyes as well – not helpful when your eyes are blue!
August 15, 2010 at 2:50 pm
CGCouture
I totally agree about the seasonal color thing being ridiculous, and I don’t even have black hair. My hair isn’t anywhere NEAR one color–it’s got ash blonde, light & medium auburn, and brown in it (yes, it’s all real!) and it’s impossible to use one of those simplified charts to find colors that work–especially because the few they give on the free versions make me look like a corpse, and the colors that I should supposedly steer clear of are the ones that make my eyes change from steel grey to blue or green and compliment my skin without making me look flushed.
Mostly though, I wear whatever color I want. There aren’t too many that I like that make me look bad.
August 15, 2010 at 2:57 pm
Cherie
Hi, interesting post. I’ve used the season theory, but have focused on skin tone as well. I am a Spring, and so is a lovely African-American local newscaster! We can wear the same lovely spring clear brights! As well, a blue-eyed blonde acquaintance is not a summer at all, but an autumn!
I agree It is more complicated than it first appears.
Cherie
August 15, 2010 at 3:49 pm
mamafitz
(disclaimer, i haven’t read the other comments, so i may be repeating)
there is another color book out that specifically targets us ‘others’. :) i couldn’t remember the name off the top of my head, but after a search, i found this:
http://www.donnafujii.com/df_html/
her book is called color with style, and she has chapters on asians, africans, and latinos, as well as white people. according to her i’m a rose (latina).
August 15, 2010 at 4:04 pm
Jacqui
I’m the proud owner of the original ‘Colour Me Beautiful’ book (safely stowed at my parents’ place though) and yeah, it was definitely based on skin tones. It was a real eye-opener for me in my mid-teens to realise that some colours suited me and some didn’t and I decided that I was a winter because winter was obviously the coolest season (and no, not because it’s a great pun!). I think I actually was a winter, but as I’ve gotten older I find the very stark colours can be a bit ageing – you don’t stay the same ‘season’ all your life I’d say. And I’m sure I remember some darker skin colours in the book as well – but I can see how the whole concept could be totally misrepresented subsequently but focusing on hair colour and by people who don’t really have a clue. No matter how limiting the concept may be in reality, the idea that there are colours that suit you and colours that don’t is incredibly valuable – right up there with learning which styles suit your body type and which don’t.
And just to add a little anthropological geekiness, and for the commenter above who thought it was funny Americans call themselves Caucasians (or Caucasoids) – it’s not actually about people from the Caucasus, it’s from a set of descriptors developed back in the late 19th and early 20th centuries and also included Negroids and Mongoloids. The Caucuses were chosen as the ideal European type as they had beautifully-shaped skulls as well as specific nose/eye/hair types. So nothing to do with skin colour at all to start with. Of course there are all sorts of nasty nasty racist connotations with this way of classifying people, and it was used to some unsavoury ends, and that way of thinking about diversity is totally out, but the term has survived for some reason and it’s not necessarily ignorant to use it in this context, just old-fashioned.
August 15, 2010 at 4:34 pm
km
Color with Style by Donna Fujii is much better then the old, and limited Color Me Beautiful. Fujii covers Hispanic, Black and Asian women too. With Asian women having nine general types. I think she is better at identifying the subtle differences in skin and hair color. And she is more inclusive.
At the time Color Me Beautiful came out it was revolutionary. I don’t know why we were not thinking about picking colors that looked good on us instead of just picking whatever appealed to us. It does make a difference. But I will completely break the rules if I like something and think it looks good on me. Fashion is suppose to be fun.
I don’t think the Color Me Beautiful woman intended to be racist, though the book can be interpreted that way.
Do check out Color with Style, it is an interesting look at color.
August 15, 2010 at 4:37 pm
patsijean
I was enthusiastic about color theory in the 80’s but found that some of the colors on the chart were not quite right for me. As a loose guide, I have occasionally refered to “Always In Style” by Doris Pooser. Based on “Color Me Beautiful” if goes far beyond that somewhat simplistic approach. Poosey’s charts list skin tone first, hair second and eye color third. I consider myself a Autumn/Spring–I look good in a clear yellow and olive greens, rusts, chocolate browns. Page 150 is a color chart for Blacks (all four seasons) and page 151 has a chart for Asians (all four seasons). My guess, based only on what I have seen in your blog Elaine, is that you are Summer/Autumn. I do not refer to “Color Me Beautiful” any longer as I feel the system became outdated very early on. Again, I see using this as a guide, for clarity not for fanatic adherence.
August 15, 2010 at 4:40 pm
Azadeh
Thank you. That is all.
August 16, 2010 at 5:39 am
Marie-Christine
Totally agree about the racism underlying that whole ‘seasons’ pronouncement. In fact, the contrast between your skin and your hair is important. So obviously a black and an asian person would obviously have different ‘best colors’.
I find that it can be helpful to look at traditional costume colors, to find what looks best on you, if you’re not too mixed-race :-). For instance, Africans (the darker the better) look great in really flashy colors. Honey-color Indians also can swing an 80s hot pink that makes white people look like they died of TB. Dark-hair/paler skin Asians like you tend to look good in whitey Fall colors. To go with your warm skin tones, in short.
But really, matching or contrasting your real, live colors on your own body is the only thing that works..
August 16, 2010 at 8:21 am
amber
Fabulous post. That is all.
August 16, 2010 at 8:59 am
RuthieK
I agree that CMB is very limited and that Donna Fuji’s system is much better. Even better than that is working out your own best colours without any reference to a chart. When I wear a particualr shade of strong coral pink I get ‘you’re glowing today’ comments and that beats any system :-) I think its worth finding your own best colours and then really working them.
August 16, 2010 at 9:07 am
Angela
You totally rock in brown! Hehe.. I usually don’t look at these things… my method for matching color to me is putting it up to my face and seeing if the color goes. If not, it will either be made into bottoms or something completely else or maybe even for someone else {shudder}. :)
August 16, 2010 at 9:48 am
africaliving
Great post!
August 16, 2010 at 10:31 am
paige morgan
I thought it was bunk until my mother in law insisted she only could wear rose colored anything. I was her chief seamstress so I took her to a Color Me Beautiful session just to prove her wrong. When the colors were draped on her we were shocked to see that certain shades of green or blue were very flattering. She had brown hair and eyes and a sallow sort of skin. I do think the skin tone is the key. And if you drape the colors under your chin it’s important. Naturally the further from the face you go the less important it is. I was told as an aside never to wear white, grey or black. Funny but I get complements when I wear those neutrals.
August 16, 2010 at 10:51 am
San Antonio Sue
I always thought the whole “color” thing was just a gimmick to sell you new clothes and makeup.
August 16, 2010 at 11:28 am
Bhoomika
Right on!
August 16, 2010 at 11:42 am
PatternJunkie
Bravo, SS! Very good points. What I also hate about the color analysis thing is that it implies that none of us can figure out if a color works for ourselves. How hard is it to hold up a color or fabric against your face and decide if you like how you look in it? Why do these stupid systems assume that none of us have any common sense? It just makes getting dressed into something way more complicated than it should be!
August 16, 2010 at 12:10 pm
Robin
This whole CMB takes me back to women running around the malls carrying swatches of fabric forbidding themselves and friends to even consider something because it “wasn’t their color”. For chrissakes…I was labeled an autumn and those colors made me look like death warmed over on a hot day. I’m old school wasp and I remember plenty of rules about what to wear and not but mostly if the color flattered your skin tone that’s what you wore – not because of some flighty fashion dictate.
I can’t believe we’re having this discussion again. Didn’t we all throw that book into the dust bin over a decade ago? Who found this thing in an thrift store and got hopped up on triple lattes while reading it?
If anyone cares, I wear whatever I want as long as the color has cool undertones – take that you autumn labeler you….
August 16, 2010 at 1:03 pm
Alexandra
Inappropriate use of a tool does not make the tool itself stupid, useless, or unreliable. Rather, it reflects on the user.
August 16, 2010 at 1:41 pm
selfishseamstress
But a tool CAN be flawed (certainly no one would argue that ALL tools are perfect) and my point is that for more than half the world’s population, here is NO WAY that the tool can be used correctly because it does not account for that segment of the population. Perhaps it works for YOU, but that does not mean that it is being used inappropriately by everyone for whom it doesn’t work. Blaming the user as opposed to the designer is the reason why so many of the world’s tools, interfaces, and products are poorly designed or difficult to use. Check out Don Norman’s seminal book on design psychology, “The Design of Everyday Things” for a brilliant and enlightening treatment of this argument.
The more frequently a tool is misused, the more it reflects on the poor design of the tool, not the user.
August 16, 2010 at 1:12 pm
sisters4saymoreismore
AMEN SISTER! i am a make-up artist and i have had many women tell me what “season” they are or ask me which they should be…. I DON’T BELIEVE IN SEASONS!!!!!!!
the only thing i know for sure is that every skin tone has warm, neutral or cool undertones in it and usually a mix of two… that basically means that ANY “color” is fine… it all comes down to the shade…. EVERYONE can wear yellow … for example it just depends on the shade… hold it up, if you don’t feel cute put it down, pick up another! SKIN tone is the most important… i have never met an eyeshadow color i didn’t love and i proudly sport every “season” of color and sometimes every season at once!
We are all so different…. its impossible to put us in a 4 category box!
~selina
August 16, 2010 at 2:04 pm
cidell
I once read in the Dritz Guide to Modern Sewing: “Most Negroes have the same colored hair and eyes. But, their skin tones have every color in the rainbow in them: red, blue, green and yellow. Negroes can wear vivid colors because high shades are most becoming, just as they are to brunettes. Contrasts of pure white are most dramatic with ebony skin tones, as are pale blue, pink, and lavender. All the blues are lovely on those with red-purple or purple-blue skin undertones. We found that the one color most Negroes had to avoid was green, particularly a yellowish green.”
HAHAHAHAHAHA
August 16, 2010 at 2:10 pm
selfishseamstress
Hahahahahha. “Modern” indeed. I’m sure some of their best friends are green-eschewing Negroes too :D
August 16, 2010 at 5:23 pm
Susannah (the other one - from Australia)
I can’t get over all these weird ways of classifying us. Star signs (approximately 1/12 of the world’s population will ‘meet a tall dark stranger’), the quiz in a magazine that classifies us into groups (none of which tell us we are pathetic losers who spend too much money on trashy magazines), and the great one where you assign a number to each letter in your name, add them up and come up with a single digit number which also predicts your personality type.
Seasons are right up there with the silliness – and thank you SS for so unselfishly sharing your wisdom with us!
August 16, 2010 at 9:32 pm
Dodi
They covered our hair and draped colors with only our face, sans-makeup, visible, when I had my colors done at the local Stretch n’ Sew in the eighties . I cannot speak to the Caucasian-only issue. I cannot recall, but based on the general population of my hometown it is a good bet we were all white.
For me the system was dead on. I’m a Summer/Winter and I learned there were colors I could wear well that I never considered before. I haven’t seen the swatches for decades, but there are colors I keep far away from my face if I wear them. I’ve tried many autumn colors but always hate photos of me in those clothes because I look yellow and sick. My sis and mom are Autumn/Spring.
I remember the color ladies saying that the system was a guideline, but we should experiment because there were always exceptions. I don’t see how anyone could learn their colors from a book or online. The experience of seeing color after color alter your appearance and watching others do the same was amazing. The whole group would ooh and ah when a color really worked, then groan with the really awful colors. I’m pretty sure that method would work on anyone.
August 16, 2010 at 10:04 pm
Sar's
Any decision making system based on subjective data rather than objective measurement will always be flawed. *gets up on high horse and canters away*
August 16, 2010 at 10:22 pm
Stephanie
I could just kiss you for your pre-emptive strike on false logic. BRAVO.
Also, doesn’t surprise me that your wide leg pants are stupendous. I wear all kinds of things that my “shape” and my “season” forbid. The more I think about it, the more I think those rules are for 1- Those who need all the help they can get aesthetically and 2- Clueless people.
August 16, 2010 at 11:55 pm
Janelle
Everyone here makes such good points, and of course Selfish, you are right on in saying that hair color is a ridiculous way to categorize people. (As a Snow White look-alike myself, I can agree completely that us dark-haired ladies come in a beautiful range of colors!)
But human nature is to put things into categories– witness the draw of the Container Store and you can see how much we love to organize everything. So Doing Ones Colors is similar. If you can only pigeon-hole yourself as to your Type, you will eliminate hours of dressing-room angst! I love the idea. Too bad it is a little more complicated than ticking boxes based on hair and eye color!
But skin tones do react differently to various colors, so I think the underlying principles of a program like this are still valid– they just need some serious tweaking.
I really don’t think it’s fair, though, as some have suggested, to call Color Me Beautiful et. al inherently racist ideas. The intention is to make every woman look as beautiful outside as she is inside– and when properly used, these tools can help. I have a hard time believing that the goal is actually to make white women look pretty and everyone else look awful. At least, I much prefer to think as charitably as possible of a flawed tool!
August 17, 2010 at 4:11 am
Valerie Lebedevas
Dear Elaine thank you for pointing out the obvious that most of us don’t want or need to be restricted to a type. People are not easily classified, even to their colours. That goes for us whities too. I once attended a conference, dressed in safe, conservative brown trousers and a black wrap top. I chose this because they were clean and because I was tired as I had worked twenty hours in the operating theatre the day before. At the end of a long conference, we had one of those makeover ladies give her opinion of our ‘style’ as entertainment. I should have walked out, as I badly wanted to do. Nevertheless I stayed and had to be told I was unadventurous, unfeminine and badly needed some colour. I wanted to tell this woman ” You don’t know me, or what I do, or what is in my wardrobe”. Uncharacteristically I just shut up and went home.
August 17, 2010 at 5:51 am
LynnB
My (female) boss dragged all us Wrangler advertising department “office help girls” to be professionally color-analysed, in 1983. What a load of … autumn-brown manure. The part where the consultant draped us with different colored scarves in front of a mirror was the only useful part of the show. But I could have done that by myself, at home, without my boss oohing and aaahing in the background. Those who love the seasonal-color thing, love it. Feel free to ignore it, flout it, mock it, bark at it. Hard to think that it still has legs, nearly 30 years later.
August 17, 2010 at 9:04 am
lsaspacey
I totally agree with you! Once I figured out I was a winter no matter what else, I never paid attention to color analysis again. Much in the way that I don’t hold much faith in poll results or Neilsen ratings unless I or someone I know or work with were in the sample.
August 17, 2010 at 9:07 am
Reethi
Being mentioned on the oh-so-awesome Selfish Semstress blog is *very* exciting!
I have to admit, I don’t read a lot of fashion magazines, and therefore pay no attention to what color I’m supposed to wear. But, I’m assuming that the subscribers to these magazines/books tend to be Caucasian women, and thefore, the writing/analysis is geared to them? Magazines in India had stuff like this as wel., but obviously, geared towards the countless variations in Indian skin tones.
And did I mention how exciting it was to be mentioned on this blog? Very!
August 18, 2010 at 9:11 am
Reethi
And, while hard to believe from the above comment, I do know how to spell. Sigh. Don’t comment and talk on the phone at the same time.
August 17, 2010 at 12:20 pm
my inner magpie
The original concept (before the book came out) was based on draping colors. A group of women would meet and have various colors draped around their faces. Depending on how the colors looked the drapee was categorized into a color season.
It was not done by hair and eye color alone and certainly did not depend on a book. It was done by physically putting the color to the face. The proof was in the pudding.
The book was written caucasian readers I think and suffers from the limitation of lacking a personal draper for every reader.
A better book is the Truimph of Individual Style. This is so much better than any other book out there in my opinion.
August 17, 2010 at 3:19 pm
Maura
Ha! Thanks for this post! In one of those color books (or maybe it was a website?) the author kept insisting, rather loudly, that certain coloring ALWAYS appears together and that’s IT! Oh, please. Tell that to my redheaded, brown-eyed, nicely tanned daughter. She is the product of all-British-Isles-ancestry me (your typical freckled and green-eyed redhead) and a pan-European-with-a-squinch-of-Mexican-Indian daddy (tan with black hair, brown eyes, and definitely NOT a “winter”). Maybe that worked when everyone was sequestered by geography into little tribes, but no more.
I think the whole system is fairly ridiculous. Most people have a natural inclination toward certain colors, either because they look great in them, or they feel happy in them and should wear them for that reason. If you don’t feel like you know what looks good on you, you probably have a friend with an eye for color who will give you an honest opinion that doesn’t come from a formula. The topic that takes the cake for me is the discussions of the exact shade of navy blue one should wear (bright, true navy? dark navy-black? purplish-navy? greyed-down navy?). As though we have a choice!!! Good luck hanging on to that old pair of pants until “your” navy shows up in the stores again!
Having my “colors done” caused nothing but anxiety and indecision for me. I was diagnosed at age 13 as an “autumn”, so I earnestly got a matching wardrobe of “autumn” clothes with my school money in the fall. When I excitedly told a youth leader about it, she said “that’s great, but you are a “spring”. Wow. Lady. You. Suck. Now I wear any and every color I feel like wearing, so there!
August 17, 2010 at 4:06 pm
Maura
I just now read the redhead comments, and I have to post again (sorry!). Yes, we redheads get lumped into one category, and it is ridiculous. I have four sisters, all with red hair, but all different shades of red, and also all different eye colors. I’m the one who, as a child, looked the most like a Visit Ireland brochure (green eyes, pale, freckled skin, and bright golden-red hair; I’ve faded considerably since then). Maddeningly, people would look at me next to my strawberry-blonde-haired, gray-blue-eyed sister who has FOUR INCHES on me AND my mother’s nose, see Red Hair! and proceed to gush “are you twins??” Good grief. I don’t see how it is possible for a stranger to “do our colors” when strangers can’t even tell us apart.
I was just complaining that the one haircolor shade that looked like mine was discontinued (I seem to have the opposite problem from the previous poster – all the semi-permanents are purple-red instead of my golden-red, at least here in Blonde-Land). In frustration I said to myself “nobody has cool red hair naturally!” And then I met a 10-year-old who totally proved me wrong! She has shiny burgundy hair that is just astounding, and completely natural. We are definitely not the same “season” (snort).
August 18, 2010 at 1:50 am
Hatty
Yes, I think the color rules and the wide-leg trouser rules all about the limited experience of the “experts” pronouncing, combined with people’s love of arbitrary “rules”, which make them feel secure (much of etiquette is about that too). My son has fairly dark gold-toned black skin (African heritage) and black eyes, with hair that is generally light brown goes blonde in the sun. He looks good in EVERY color. But you know, evey child is a gazelle in his mother’s eyes! I mean, who says this looks good and this doesn’t. Even the argument that you look good in wide leg pants and they make you look tall comes too close to “and taller is better”. What if I think small women are incredibly beautiful? The same goes for the “This style makes you look slimmer” argument. You know some guys fancy women BECAUSE they are fat. So what’s missing here is the whole element of subjectivity in our preferences.
I don’t like the color rules or the clothing cut rules for that reason. They attempt to impose the same value system on us all. You are “out” if you don’t adhere to their system. It sucks.
August 18, 2010 at 1:24 pm
lorrwill
Well 2 things.
First all those ladies in the pictures? Don’t look a thing like us (I’m part Asian). Second: Like more people I can wear colors from all 4 seasons and look good in them (I gauge this but the number of compliments versus questions about failing health). Third: I never thought about that demographic you so brilliantly, I mean selfishly pointed out.
And yes, grandma was mixed blood with tan skin, red hair and freckles.
Aren’t all these rules about marketing and making money and really nothing more?
August 22, 2010 at 9:15 am
enfinblue
I have gruesome colouring :) – ash brown hair with a bit of a warm red tone), blue eyes that can veer to grey, and skin with a yellow tone. As I age everything is fading and suddenly I look quite nice in some cool colours. Who knew! It’s pretty clear that experimentation with colour is key. Oh and having fun. Your pants are lovely! I think the issue with wide-legged pants is as much about the rise as the pant leg width. At least for me, playing with the rise is what makes any pant width or skirt length work. It seems clear that for anyone it’s about the composite of proportions used across the whole body. No blanket “rules” for me, please. But then again, I wear creamy yellow vintage handmade shoes that I bought in Australia a long time ago (I believe they were once a lady’s dancing shoes, and they had her name on the bottom) in winter and I live in Canada. :)
August 22, 2010 at 9:18 am
enfinblue
OOps – PS I meant “sallow” skin. I don’t want to be misunderstood! Because of my dull hair I often look ill if I don’t wear mascara and I disappear with light highlights. I always wanted to have dark hair. It’s amazing how quick we are to categorize beauty, however; much as I don’t think I have the greatest colouring, I still see unique beauty in it.
August 22, 2010 at 7:53 pm
Linda KS
Sisters, what you have said is EXACTLY what the seasons are about.Skin undertone and whether the tone is warm or cool. It’s as simple as that.
A WELL TRAINED colourist, will cover the hair and concentrate on skin tone during an assessment. They will use ” daylight” lights to keep the colours true,and most of all will collaborate and assist the customer to understand colour theory.Most people dye their hair these days, so it’s even MORE important to cover the hair. Unfortunately, there are many pracitioners who are espousing BS, so I disagree with you, SS – the tool is often used badly!
As Bean Girl wrote above, the theory relates back to the Bauhaus in the 1930s and can be found in Johannes Ittens book on colour theory,”The Art of Color: The Subjective Experience and Objective Rationale of Color ” 1961( I can’t figure out how to put the Amazon link in here…).
I have found the thing that upsets most people, is that they have not been shown how colour theory works, and once shown, the penny dropping is wonderful to experience.Most people have a wardrobe that is 75-80% “correct” so we are all seasoning ourselves anyway. That other 25% of the wardrobe that we just don’t like wearing, even when the fit is great, is likely to be the ‘wrong’ colour.It can be a remarkable tool for those who have no colour sense. In any case, it was never meant to be prescriptive but a guide, once colour theory is understood.
My daughter has just had her colours “done” and has given her untold freedom. With “nude” being the new summer season ‘in’ colour (Australia) she knows that she can wear a nude that has a cooler (bluer) aspect, a colour commonly known as taupe, but she should avoid a nude with a warmer (yellow) aspect, a colour commonly known as beige. You can call a colour whatever you want, but the underlying makeup of the colour is what it REALLY is. My next step is to demonstrate the theory with paints to solidfy her knowledge. When is a blue, warm and when is it cool – and when is the difference barely visible?
Do not be upset by the rules and mis-givings of a beautiful theory that has been mishandled by many well intentioned people. Just think of the times when you or someone else has worn something that looks really great, makes your eyes sparkle and your skin glow and wonder “why” and then wonder “how” can that be repeated? Think of the times the opposite happens ( always to other people of course…!) where someone looks sallow and ‘dead’ in the garment near their face. Colour Theory can help repeat the good times and avoid the bad times.
When people say “I look good in this” , they are always correct. We instrinsically know what we look good in, but being able to repeat that and not be limited to the few colours you know of , is where colour theory assists.
The composition of colour is a huge and complex theory,not just one 80’s fashion book, nor one 60’s proposition. Whatever you do, try a little step towards understanding a bit of it and you WILL enjoy the benefits of it!
August 22, 2010 at 11:05 pm
selfishseamstress
Thanks for that well-informed post and the historical approach. To be clear, I don’t think I, nor any of the commenters on this post, are arguing against color theory in general, or trying not to be “understanding.” I think as people who sew and are interested in sewing, we also have an intrinsic belief and interest in color theory in the greater sense and are actually extremely open to it when applied in an open-minded sense. As I mentioned several times, I believe there is much value in the underlying concept of certain colors being flattering for certain coloring. I am, as you say, arguing against a frequently used (and perhaps bastardized) specific application of color theory which has clear limitations. As a colorist, I’m sure if you Google around for the sort of online tools to determine your “season,” you’ll see exactly what limitations I’m referring to, and why I object to people trying to apply them to me.
September 24, 2010 at 5:35 am
anne
So true! And if you look at the first picture, with the supposed spectrum of all hair colours – mine is _completely missing_. Not dark, not light, but RED!
I don’t think I’ve _ever_ seen a makeover in a magazine with a redhead, and if they talk about redheads, they assume we all have brown eyes – mine are green.
I’ve never paid for my ‘seasons’ to be done – I just figure it out myself. It just seems so patronising.
October 8, 2010 at 11:36 am
b eth
I find the new and improved system of colour analysis quite good. As someone mentioned here earlier, it divides each season in 3, which makes 12 different result in general. These are, of course, also generalizations like the old system, but I find it more accurate.
Spring: Clear spring (between winter and spring, clear, high contrasting colours, striking eyes. Think Cameron Diaz or Jenny McCarthy), warm spring (the archetypical spring with warm skin and warm, clear eyes. Often red or golden haired. Think Nicole Kidman and Amy Adams), light spring (crossover between spring and summers. Light and delicate, yet favours light warm colours, but can also wear some cool colours. Think Kate Hudson and Diane Sawyer)
Summer: Light summer (crossover between summer and spring. Lighter, cooler and more delicate than light spring with softer, “paler” eyes and often ash tones to their hair. Think Naomi Watts and Michelle Pfeiffer), cool summer (no warm tones in skin, hair or eyes. Eyes can be grey, blue, blue grey, blue green, grey green. Lighter than cool winter, and favours softer, cool shades. Think Elliot from Scrubs, Dana from According to Jim or Candice Bergen), soft summer (summer autumn crossover. Needs soft and muted shades. Not too light, not too dark. Soft, “smudged” eyes when compared to the other seasons, especially the clear seasons. Skin appears neutral. Often mistaken for a winter. The soft summer is lighter and softer than the winter. Think Sarah Jessica Parker or Leona Lewis)
Autumn: Soft autumn (autumn summer crossover. Often mistaken for a light spring, but is far softer and more velvety. Appears neutral, but favours warmer, soft and muted colours.. Think Drew Barrymore), warm autumn (sister season of warm spring, but deeper, softer and darker. Think Lindsay Lohan au naturelle or Debra Messing), deep autumn (blend between autumn and winter, but favours the deep, warmer shades. Dark hair and eyes. A lot of coloured women and men fall within the deep seasons, but can also be one of the soft seasons. Think Julia Roberts or Kelley from the American The Office)
Winter: Deep winter (winter meets autumn. Deep, rich, dark colours. Cooler than the deep autumn. Think Eva Longoria or Sandra Bullock), cool winter (sister season of cool summer, but clearer and darker. No warm tones in hair, skin or eyes. Think Lauren Graham), clear winter (can wear some of the spring colours. Clear, sparkling eyes, clear skin, high contrast between skin and hair. Usually dark haired. Think Courtney Cox)
November 15, 2010 at 8:49 pm
maria
i have assignemt and i dont know what 2 do can u plz help me im looking 4 … red undertone and yallow undortone can uplz help??
July 5, 2011 at 3:40 pm
Marisol
I am mixed-race, I hate calling myself “latino” or “hispanic” as the former reffers to anyone who speaks any Romance tongue and the latter reffers to people who speak Spanish. To stereotipical dissapointment, I look caucasian, I defend the 12 color system, and I FIND DONNA FUJII TO BE MUCH MORE RACIST THAN THE REST. Why? Just because she “acknowledges” people “of color” (wtf does that mean, anyway?) are DIFFERENT THAN THE REST.
I tried the crappy online test: if I tell it I’m caucasian, it gives me one thing, and if I tell it I’m “latino”, it gives me an entirely different thing altogether!!! How is this not clearly racist? Even if both results pointed to a renamed equivalent of a Cool Winter/True Winter I actually am, I found the distinction, and the pictures, highly offensive.
If you people love being recognized as different just because you love the attention of what being different entails, go ahead and set yourselves appart. Don’t go around insulting a perfectly scientific system and proposing racist distinctions instead.
October 5, 2011 at 12:29 pm
e
great post
January 16, 2013 at 2:13 pm
Julia
I think what you’re talking about is now considered the old way of doing color analysis. Like, for example, “You have light hair and light eyes and warm undertones, so you’re a Spring.” I think that’s pretty antiquated… but maybe it’s also the way whoever posts these things is trying to make it easy for you to figure it out at home rather than going to a color analyst. There are no hard and fast rules for hair and eye color and season, but supposedly, there is a typical look for people who belong to a season.
The “new” way to have your colors done is to do a draping where the analyst looks at the effect of different colors on your skin (with a neutral gray background and neutral and “natural” lighting). It makes sense, but I think the problem is that the color analyst may not have a good eye (or a different POV than the next analyst, which is inevitable) even though they have some kind of training or read some books. Also, I read that it’s hard to separate the psychological effects of a color from the way it makes your skin look. I wonder if a bunch of people end up being told they’re Springs and Winters just because those colors get the blood flowing for the analyst… or if shy people get “diagnosed” as Autumns and Summers more frequently because they influence the analyst’s reaction to them. Such an interesting topic. I’ve been obsessing over my colors for months, and I still haven’t figured them out. I would like to go to an analyst, but I don’t really want to shell out… and I often hear about conflicting analyses being done on the same person. (Even here in the previous posts!) I guess I’ll just wear my go-to colors that I KNOW look good on me and keep experimenting. :)
May 25, 2013 at 9:08 am
Santa
Oh god – dissenting. I thought I was winter forever, til I realised that the intense winter palette overwhems my frosty whity skin tone and pale grey winter. Cool and muted is the order of the day making me a… cool summer. I’m all the better for the discovery.
August 12, 2013 at 1:59 pm
Tammy Keown
How can I get fabric swatches of each season for my class. I would like to do any activity with them in my Styles and Textiles class. Please help me!!
December 28, 2015 at 6:05 am
And so says Sierra
I recently had my colours done and it was very helpful, maybe the classification system has changed? I’m Pakistani with very dark brown hair & brown eyes. House of Colours told me I’m a deep summer, and can wear pastels/muted tones & a few deeper berry colours. My sisters are both winters, which makes sense as they are darker like my father. My mother is a summer like me, we both have fairer undertones. I found my analysis to be really useful, as previously shop assistants/make up artists always tried to lump me in the ‘brown category’ and give me yellow-based make up. Even those of the same ethnic heritage as me! It took a white woman in her 60s to point out that I’m not a winter, I can’t wear bright garish colours because they wash me out and I actually need a pink-based foundation. This was a revelation for me, and I would highly recommend House of Colours to people like me who are in-between, so to speak.
December 31, 2015 at 8:16 am
Annie
The original Colors analysis system, (I don’t have the exact name of the enterprise) which existed many many years ago, didn’t take the hair color into consideration. In fact, people had to have a towel around their hair to do the analysis. It was based on the complexion only, whether pink based or orange / yellow.
All black hair is not necessarily just black. The best hairdressers are now talking about warm or cool undertones, and have coloring products to match. Go check what Guy Tang and Kenra do, for example. As a painter, we know there are warmer and cooler blacks.
I know some dark skinned African Americans who clearly look washed out in black but radiant in very dark blue. For a particular person, even black nail polish lacks sparkle on her. Given the other colors that look good on her, she’s probably an Autumn, just like me, who am a Ginger with a lot of yellow /orange undertones in my skin. My sisters and brothers have blond and brown hair. 2 are Spring and 2 others definitely are Autumn.
Winter complexions are the most prevalent in society, no matter what ethnic origin, add to that the Summers, that makes the pink based people the majority of the population I believe. That is easy to see when one goes shopping for clothes, being an Autumn it can be a bit discouraging if you are not aware of these facts, as most of what is out there is not so flattering and can feel awkward.
I know that understanding this was important for me, even from the make up perspective. I used to wonder why these colors that I bought looked so harsh on me. I remember that light pink blush. It always ended looking like war stripes on me! I used to spend so much time blending it in and removing the excess, but no matter what I did, it was always glaring. When I finally understood why, I gave away a fortune in almost unused makeup to a disbelieving but happy Winter friend…
I agree with what LInda Ks, Santa and And so says Sierra commented, and Robyn is probably a Winter.
From what Julia said, the ”real” system of color analysis, which was done through personal consultations, might still exist, however it was copied many times and watered down into many books, a lot of which didn’t make much sense even then.
Also taking hair color into consideration is pointless, because supposedly we all turn white haired in time, but are all whites equivalent? Probably not. Just like blacks are not always the same.