The sewing obsessed are already undoubtedly aware of the independent pattern company Colette, which produces lovely vintage-inspired patterns, like the Chantilly dress pattern above.
Colette patterns come in sizes 0-18, which I think are meant to be much closer to normal RTW sizing than the Big 4 sizing scheme (how many home seamstresses got messed up by making a Big 4 pattern according to their usual RTW size rather than their measurements the first time they tried to sew something?) Colette is also notable for using models who look like pretty ladies you’d see out in the park or at the office rather than 5’10” fashion models. I won’t use the phrase “real women” because as one who lacks curves, I can tell you that it’s no fun going from being teased by other kids about one’s scrawny, undeveloped physique from the age of 12 to being told repeatedly as a grownup by other grownups and the media that “real women have curves.” This is *my* reality. And it barely fills an A-cup.
But on that topic, the Colette patterns are generally shown on beautiful curvy, zaftig, hourglass-shaped women, perfect for modeling the retro styles from the era of classic pinup girl. And most of the Colette garments I’ve seen made up on blogs and websites are on ladies of at least average curviness (and by this I am referring to shape, not size or weight). In fact, the according to the size chart, the Colette size 0 is designed for a 33″ bust (body measurement, not finished garment measurement). I wear a size 0 RTW, and with the Big 4 patterns, I wear (or grade down to) a size 4. However, the size 4 bust measurement for a Vogue or McCall’s is Selfish Seamstress-sized 29.5″ (don’t even get me started on the Big 4 waist measurement BS), a full whopping 3.5″ smaller than Colette, so we’re potentially looking at a very non-trivial SBA with a Colette pattern.
Granted, I know that there are some Colette styles that wouldn’t suit my figure even if I could get them to fit properly simply because the styles themselves look best on curves, but I thinking even a gamine like the Selfish Seamstress would like a coat like Lady Grey?
My question is: have any of you who have been “blessed” with a boyish figure (again, talking about shape, not size) tried out Colette patterns, and if so, how did the fit work out? Are they cut for a different kind of ladyshape than Burda or the Big 4? Ladies of modest endowment and minimal waist definition, pipe up!
The Selfish Seamstress 
31 comments
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May 14, 2010 at 2:52 pm
Hanna
“real women have curves.” This is *my* reality.
I hear ya sister, I hear ya. Thanks for saying it.
May 14, 2010 at 3:04 pm
Tasia
I made the Lady Grey Coat, and I’m small-busted and on the short side. I cut the smallest size, and I’m thrilled with how it turned out!
(http://sewaholic.net/the-statement-coat-completed/ – if you want to see.)
Bust size is less of an issue with coats though. For the dresses, I’ve heard other sewing bloggers talk of Small Bust Adjustments, so if you love the pattern you could always try that out.
I’m curious what your other readers have to say!
May 14, 2010 at 3:16 pm
selfishseamstress
*gasp*
YES! Awesome! Love it! Want it!
I would not even have thought of turquoise, but now that I’ve seen yours, I’m not sure I could make it in any other color. Thanks for sharing.
May 14, 2010 at 4:35 pm
Tasia
No problem! I really enjoyed using the pattern too, it was straightforward and easy to follow. After your green ‘n’ white trench coat, this one will seem even easier I bet. Good luck if you decide to go for it!
I love turquoise, it’s my favourite colour. I picture everything in turquoise :)
May 14, 2010 at 3:18 pm
allison
There’s a small bust adjustment technique featured on the colette patterns website by who else but the amazing gertie!
http://www.colettepatterns.com/blog/tutorials-tips-tricks/adjusting-parfait-for-a-small-bust-a-tutorial-from-gertie
May 14, 2010 at 3:18 pm
cape owner
Hmmm.. why do so many of us who sew expect that all pattern companies should cater to every possible size and body shape that exists. Why do we insist that a pattern be available in “our size,” even if that pattern is specifically designed to emphasize something we don’t have?
May 14, 2010 at 3:21 pm
selfishseamstress
We don’t, which is why we ask others about the fit before we buy :)
May 14, 2010 at 7:00 pm
Nikole
Anyone who sews knows that this is not gonna happen. If you do then you should go draft your own patterns and stop buying the ready made ones. And at the same time this is why you make mock ups
May 14, 2010 at 3:42 pm
Catherine
I think maybe Gertie does SBA with her Colette patterns? http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/2009/06/colette-patterns-part-deux-macaron.html
May 14, 2010 at 3:49 pm
Trisha
I haven’t used a Colette Patterns, but I did a SBA following these instructions (slightly different than Gertie’s, I think):
http://hungryzombiecouture.blogspot.com/2007/03/my-cup-does-not-runneth-over.html
And my dress turned out great:
http://madebytrisha.blogspot.com/2010/03/rawr-jungle-print-dress-is-alive.html
May 14, 2010 at 3:51 pm
stitchywitch
I’m small and I’ve sewn two Colette patterns (the beignet skirt and the rooibos dress.) The skirt was fine (and really pretty!) but I did have to do a small SBA on the dress (I have a 31″ chest, so I am sympathetic to your plight – I am sometimes too small for the smallest size after taking the ease out and grading down is annoying.) Colette patterns don’t include crazy ease, so they may not be as far off as you think. Except – I tried the Sencha blouse, but no way was that thing looking good on me – the smallest size was a sack! I will say that the proportions are overall pretty good – the hemlines on the smallest sizes seem made for the petite, and since I am average height the dress is actually short on me.
I love the Lady Gray coat, and I have the Ceylon dress pattern, though I know I will have to adjust it. If you like the styles the adjustments may be worth it – the patterns are well written, though I will say they are more work for me than the average pattern because I can’t sew them as written.
May 14, 2010 at 5:54 pm
Colleen P.
Can’t comment on the small bust adjustment as I’m overqualified in the boob department (but if anyone wants a spare couple…four…cup sizes you can certainly have mine, and then I’ll be able to buy or make blouses that button! Without the armscye resting on my bicep!)
But I do have to comment on the turquoise coat-IT IS STUNNING!!! That is just SO beautiful! I really didn’t look at that pattern and think “would work well for very petite women” (it looks just made for us curvy types) but it REALLY does flatter the petite frame, surprisingly well!
I loved reading that you think in turquoise Tasia!
May 14, 2010 at 6:23 pm
Anonymous
I made the Sencha blouse. I have read that her patterns are made for a C cup, I’m an A and the blouse definitely needs to be adjusted, the waist and hip fits well but the bust is much too baggy. Regardless, I love this pattern. The directions are wonderful. I’m a beginner and I learned a few new techniques I didn’t know yet from making this. The end result was a really well-made, slightly ill-fitting blouse :O) (I’m still learning how to alter)
May 14, 2010 at 6:29 pm
Antoinette
I sewed Colette Macaron in size 0 and it came out pretty well. I am very similar to you in stature and proportion — 5′ tall, almost-A, etc. I didn’t make a SBA. The only two pattern alterations I made were moving the bust dart 1/2″ to a more appropriate place, and shortening the bodice by 1″. I’ve thought about doing an SBA because it has more than 1″ ease that Colette Patterns are intended to have, but I wore it to a sewing meetup and everyone was excited about the fit as it was. They also pointed out that a more snug fit would feel mighty constricting in the summer heat. So I’m trying a second version sometime in the next 100 years with different fabrics. I also bought Rooibos because I’m a pattern monger like that and cross my fingers that I won’t have to try an SBA. There’s precious little instruction out there for SBA’s.
Oh, I asked Sarai of Colette my height questions, and my memory recalls that the patterns are designed for a 5’3″ woman. Hope this helps! Lady Grey is pretty!
May 17, 2010 at 2:56 am
Marie-Christine
Don’t worry Antoinette, there are precious few instructions out there for SBA but there are tons for FBA. And they’re precisely the same, you just take out where they add :-). In fact, it’s easier because you can get away with folding the pattern instead of slashing right and left. So no sweat..
Alas, my favorite instructions, Debbie Cook’s, have been eaten by her site transition for the moment. But watch out for them, they’re easiest of them all by far and work well.
May 14, 2010 at 6:36 pm
orata
I heard a tip somewhere that for “grading down” a Colette pattern, someone had just cut out the smaller pattern size for the bust and fitted it to the larger waist/hip pieces, rather than doing a true and proper SBA. I cut out a couple of the pieces for the Parfait dress using this idea… just the bust and underbust pieces of the bodice, but it actually seemed like it might work fine. I haven’t had a chance to cut out all the pieces and finish sewing it yet though, so I can’t say for sure.
May 17, 2010 at 2:57 am
Marie-Christine
Orata, that’d work well if you had small shoulders to match your small bust. Otherwise you could get yourself in big armhole-binding trouble..
May 14, 2010 at 9:59 pm
Liz
i’m a B-cup or so with a narrow rib cage, insanely short-waisted, and have made the parfait dress. i did a SBA and it worked out great for me! i am currently making it again with a size 8 bodice w/SBA, 10 midriff and mixed-up size skirt (8-12) that i will probably have to take in, and lengthened by 6″. the original skirt is fine when i was standing up, but rode WAY up when i sat down. i’m 5’6″ but most of my height is in my legs; i think the claim of it being modeled on a woman 5’3″ is true! :) i have beignet (and the fabric, a wool gabardine shell and silk lining, which i am terrified to try to sew) and rooibos patterns too. i’m just assuming i’ll have to do a SBA. i wouldn’t try one of these patterns without doing a muslin top portion, and i would expect to do a SBA with less than a B-cup and/or a narrow rib cage.
that said, man, do i love these patterns! you should go for it!
May 14, 2010 at 10:11 pm
Trudy callan
I wanted to thank you for your condolences on my blog about the loss of my mother-in-law.
I also wanted to congratulate you on your engagement. I’m a little behind on my blog reading because of my mil’s illness and untimely death. I just read about it somewhere else.
May 15, 2010 at 3:20 am
Fourth Daughter
I’m SO glad to hear someone else say this about the “real” women issue. I keep meaning to do a post on my own blog about it… it always makes me feel like I’m inadequate when I read about “real” women… it’s not my fault I’m the same shape all the way down! Something like size 6 bust, size 14 waist, and size 8 hips, I think…. basically I look like a stick.
Anyway I’ve just found your blog and will have to have a better look later but congratulations on your engagement and on choosing the greenkarat ring, it’s so beautiful, individual and eco/ethics friendly too…. I write for this eco-mag which did a green wedding feature recently, so happy that some people do care enough to make a green choice! http://www.peppermintmag.com/ (I’m “Miss Sew & Sew”).
May 15, 2010 at 5:10 am
Marie-Christine
Well now, for once we can escape the Tyranny of the B Cup, don’t be too envious :-). So there’s -one- pattern line actually designed for women with larger busts, it’s really not that bad. Actually, you’re making me nostalgic for old-time Burda, which used to assume that small thin women didn’t have much bust, and huge ones did. Not an assumptino that fit everyone of course, but one that hit the target in much more of the population.
That said, I’m sure the coat would be perfect on you.. You’d be making a muslin anyway, right?
May 15, 2010 at 5:47 am
Cissie Wellons
I may have to try Colette patterns. Perhaps the reason I like your blog so much, Elaine, is that we have the same body! No bust, no waist, just like a yardstick. I’m always looking for styles that work with those restrictions!
May 15, 2010 at 6:35 am
Julie
I would argue that this Colette pattern is better suited for women without “real” curves. As a woman with too many curves, the last thing I would ever wear is a coat with gathers on the hip. Add even more bulk to my hip? Never! Though I do love the pattern. (Sigh)
May 15, 2010 at 9:18 am
LaKaribane
Well, I’m afraid I have more bad news: the shoulder length is another issue you might have.
I’m 5’/1m53 and have a shoulder width of 10,5 cm. I seem to be a size 4 but I am definitely making a muslin for any of the 3 patterns I now own.
I wrote to Sarai, the owner about back length and shoulder width. She says :
“I can tell you the standard measurements I use for the sloper I draft from, which is a size 8 in my size chart. The shoulder width for that size is 7.25 inches (18.4 cm) and the back length is 16.5 in (41.9 cm).
When grading it down two sizes to a size four, the shoulder width would shrink to about 7 in (17.8 cm). So you would probably need the narrow shoulder adjustment you mention. The back length would grade down to about 16 in (40.6 cm).
Please keep in mind that this is just for the sloper, so each pattern will vary depending on how I remove or add wearing ease and design ease… but I think this should give you a pretty good idea!”
I’m trying to stay positive but this is a bit scary. I’m just going to close my eyes and fold and tape and hope for the best…I think.
May 15, 2010 at 9:53 am
betty
i wear a small B cup. most collette patterns are really flattering on a small bust bc they have lots of gathering or bust darts.
May 15, 2010 at 7:41 pm
Nicole
I am immodestly endowed in the bust department, but I can speak to the lack of waist definition a bit — I have pretty narrow hips and a large waist, and I’ve been really pleased with the Colette patterns I’ve made up because they make me look more curvy.
I haven’t taken any good pics yet of the Chantilly I’ve made (it’s been raining in Ithaca), but here’s an idea of how it turned out:
http://biketopus.blogspot.com/2010/05/wedding-dress-done.html
I would say this pattern would definitely need a SBA or you’ll have way too much fabric over the bust. On the other hand, I found the bust on the Rooibos to be fairly small already. Here’s my Rooibos muslin:
http://biketopus.blogspot.com/2010/03/rooibos-fitting.html
The finished bust measurement was accurate, but I had to do an FBA in this to get a proper fit. The bust fit in this pattern felt a lot closer to Big 4/B cup patterns, at least for me.
I would love to do a Lady Grey sometime when I’m feeling really flush… every one that I’ve seen made up has been absolutely gorgeous!
May 16, 2010 at 6:26 am
Hillary
Yup- small bust, minimal waist definition- that is me! But I’m a huge fan of Colette patterns- I’ve done Parfait, Oolong, Rooibos, Sencha, and working on a Chantilly now– but going into it I know I’m always going to have to make modifications- Sarai says she does grade for a C cup, and I am so not that! The 2nd round of patterns (tea-named ones) seem to be cut slightly more modestly in the bust, and I have found that just going down one size in the bodice has been a simple, adequate workaround for those, but definitely you need to a significant SBA for sure on the dessert-named first batch. That’s really too bad though that her sizes don’t even get into your ballpark, though, oh no!
I think that while many of the styles look much better on curvier women, I think that these patterns look better on me than many other patterns, if that makes sense. With my 12-year old boy (albeit very elongated in my case) shape, it’s easiest to rock sleeker, more modern, even androgynous looks, but, you know, I did that throughout my 20s and I’m a little more into seeing how I can soften up my look these days, experimenting with other things that work on me, playing up my femininity more. (Why did I just want to put “femininity” in quotes there?– I definitely hear you on messages of not being sufficiently feminine based on my shape, etc. but a discussion for another time!) I know that you have mentioned you have to be careful with “cute”- and I do to a degree too mostly due to age, but I think Colettes are just super fun to work with; if you’re up for the grading and adjusting part of it, I say go for it!
May 16, 2010 at 2:01 pm
Miss Celie
Yeah… I get tired of the ‘real’ body comments. Everyone’s body is their reality. Let’s not pick on them either way. But, as a 5’6 C (going on D) cup. I can offer you no advice on this.
May 18, 2010 at 8:44 am
Olga
So, Burda vs. Colette. I have made only two Colette patterns (Beignet skirt and Sencha blouse) and a lot of BWOF patterns. My measurements are 34A bust and 5’7 height. Burda tops fit me with no bust adjustments, but with skirt or pants, I usually have to do some alterations. With Colette patterns, the skirt fit me perfectly right out of the envelope: I made a muslin, but did not have to adjust anything, just followed/blended the pattern to my size according to Sarai’s size chart (note that I have 10″ difference between waist and hips and had to blend between two sizes). The top was very big in the bust (being drafted for C cup and all) — I ended up adjusting it quite a bit by both, slashing/overlapping the pattern in the middle and taking it in on the sides. The instructions on Colette patterns are very detailed though, so once the fit adjustments are out of the way, the sewing process itself will be fun and easy.
May 31, 2010 at 10:29 am
Amber
I have not tried any of their patterns as of yet, but my sewing instructor also offers a SBA tutorial on her blog, demonstrating on the Parfait dress.
http://sew-la-fabric.blogspot.com/2010/03/or-b-cup-alterations-for-colettes.html
June 4, 2010 at 5:01 pm
Jessie
I know I’m late to the party but I wanted to sympathize about the “real woman” talk. At one time I was a skinny A cup because it was natural for me. Later I was a VERY skinny A cup because I’d been sick and lost a ton of weight. Now I’m just about in the middle of the healthy range on a standard weight to height chart and a C/D cup. And guess what? My gender has not changed :) I hope for all of womankind that that phrase will just disappear.