Back in college when the Selfish Seamstress was a mere Selfish Regular Person, or perhaps more accurately an Avidly Unselfish Crocheter, she experienced a pair of rather traumatic back-to-back events. She was minding her own business at her academically rigorous liberal arts ivory tower in the Northeast when she received two extremely disturbing pieces of post in her campus mailbox: the J.Crew catalogue and the Victoria’s Secret catalogue. You see, younger readers, it was a simpler time when the interwebs was just a nascent technology, and online shopping was a rose just beginning to bud. We would receive these “catalogues” made of “paper” in the “mail” and then promptly run off to our dorm rooms to our Apple computers (think like an iPhone but with wires and much bigger and you couldn’t take it around with you) and order things on sale online before they ran out of our sizes. We thought we were pretty fancy, snapping things up before the old people who still relied on the paper order forms in the catalogues.
Wherein lay the trauma, you ask? Well, in this particular year, within the span of a few short months, J. Crew stopped selling size 5 shoes (the only place she could reliably find them at the time), and Victoria’s Secret discontinued the only bra she had ever found that actually fit, the racerback Second Skin Satin. Between daily dance classes, a teenage metabolism, and (gasp!) cheerleading practice, she had quite the pixie-ish figure at the time, so a fitting bra was no common occurrence. Needless to say, it was shaping up to be a tragedy, and the Avidly Unselfish Crocheter feared entering her senior year barefoot and unsupported. She managed to find the occasional size 5 at Nine West and padded her toes with tissues when necessary. She prudently bought up about a dozen of the treasured VS bras on clearance and rationed them out little by little over the next ten years or so.
Fast forward to now. The addition of pounds and years has done nothing to enhance her bustline, but the flourishing of interweb shopping has made the finding of tiny shoes much easier. As for bras, the 21st century has been accompanied by the ever increasing ubiquity of H&M, which, for all of its faults, recognizes the need for a true A-cup, and is even so understanding as to provide it in colors other than white and beige.
And still, much like the 20-year old who survived these traumas, the Selfish Seamstress has the attention span of a fly. Her obsession over shoemaking is simmering on the back burner while she fixates on the idea of making her own bras (by most accounts an achievable feat with some patience). And oh how the interwebs makes it easy for her to plunge right in, despite a bunch of other projects that are still waiting for hems and zippers!
I just clicked the “Submit Order” button on the Elan B540 bra pattern (pictured above) as well as a Sew Sassy kit (actually for a different bra, but it looks like it contains materials that could be used for the B540). Yes, the kit only comes in white, but I figured it would be a good idea to get a starter pack to try it out before investing in prettier choices that will likely have to be purchased in larger quantities. Like these:
And who knows? If all goes well, I may have to indulge in some of these magnificent (and surprisingly reasonably priced) lingerie kits from Kantje Boord. Unless I get distracted by something else first, that is.
53 comments
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May 5, 2010 at 2:22 pm
Amy
I know lots of people who make their own bras, I’m sure you will love it. And just think of all the lovely coloured bras you will be able to make! ahh the possibilities are endless. ;)
May 5, 2010 at 2:24 pm
nettie
First there were the swimsuits in this post making me search for supplies:
http://angrychicken.typepad.com/angry_chicken/2010/05/let-the-swimming-begin.html and now bra making supplies! You ladies are a bad influence ;o)
I could seriously use more bras that fit properly…
May 5, 2010 at 3:00 pm
Stephanie
I used to think people who made their own bras were barking mad. Obviously, those with hard to find sizes are not barking mad. Recently I discovered I’m something of a stitch and fabric snob, which unfortunately extends to underwear. Should I learn to make it myself or spend $400 on a bra? I think we all know the answer.
May 5, 2010 at 3:00 pm
Stephanie
Your fabrics are absolutely FABULOUS, by the way.
May 5, 2010 at 5:31 pm
selfishseamstress
They are fabulous, but *sigh* they aren’t mine. Yet.
May 5, 2010 at 3:10 pm
Norma
For what it is worth, I was similarly interested a few years ago and took a class in New York. While I ended up with a pair of sandals and a pair of shoes, it was VERY labor intensive. Not something I will repeat!
May 5, 2010 at 3:12 pm
Amy
I have been dying to make my own bras. i have a hard to fit size and dumping $100+ on a bra I am only meh about is just disheartening. Looking forward to seeing how it goes for you. A kit is next up on my wish list.
May 5, 2010 at 3:22 pm
CGCouture
Making bras isn’t nearly as scary as it sounds. I’d suggest you take a class for it though. It’s much easier to do if you have someone who knows what they are doing to help you through the first time and to help you ensure a proper fit for when you are finished. Just my $0.02 :-) .
May 5, 2010 at 3:33 pm
Kerry
Oh, joy, you brought me back fond memories of sitting in my dorm room, waiting for the modem to dial, listening to a series of screeches and beeps that sounded like R2D2 on speed…
Funny – I cannot find “real” bras to that fit (that is, I can find pull over no-cup ‘day bras’, but anything with actual support in my size eludes me), and yet that is one thing I have no interest in sewing.
However, now that I am making dresses and tops that fit me properly, I do see a need to have some bras in my wardrobe that work with the clothes that I am sewing…hmmm…maybe this needs reconsideration.
May 5, 2010 at 5:13 pm
Miss Celie
“Oh, joy, you brought me back fond memories of sitting in my dorm room, waiting for the modem to dial, listening to a series of screeches and beeps that sounded like R2D2 on speed…”
YES! THIS! LOL. That was *me*!
May 5, 2010 at 5:25 pm
selfishseamstress
Ok, ladies, I *know* we are all the same age, so what exactly was going on in the IT departments of your undergrad institutions? We had AppleTalk networking in our dorm rooms for the first couple of years, and then Ethernet towards the end. The only time I ever dealt with a dial-up modem was when I’d go home for the breaks!
May 5, 2010 at 6:37 pm
lorrwill
Your R2 reference just made me howl with laughter.
Kerry for the win!
May 5, 2010 at 3:45 pm
D
I feel your pain…Gap Body used to make the BEST no wire bra that was a feat of engineering (enough to nicely support and shape a pair of 36D’s)
Yes, it only came in black white or beige. Yes, it was slightly utilitarian and shall we say, minimalist in it’s design. But it was so so so so comfortable and perfect that between a friend and myself, we amassed quite a collection.
But then they became harder and harder to find, and lo, we found out they were discontinued.
I hold on to them, trying to eke out one more wear, in hopes that someday, I’ll either a) (the not very likely choice) unravel their secrets and be able to make my own or b) (also not likely, but more realistic) take it to a custom bra shop and cajole them into making them for me.
May 5, 2010 at 3:59 pm
Becky
Wow…those ARE nice fabrics at that second site! I’m generally not a lace sort of girl, but some of those are rather eye-catching, and not overly frou-frou. Almost incentive enough to want to try to learn to make my own bras as well, especially since I do have a somewhat harder time finding my size! Well, that is, if I can figure out the Dutch enough to know exactly how much those cost and what’s in them…Google translator wasn’t entirely helpful on that count.
May 5, 2010 at 5:03 pm
Jodie K
You could also check out the Etsy shop “Hooks and Wires”. She sells kits made up with everything you need to make beautiful bras in gorgeous colours. All the fabric, lace, elastic, findings all dyed to match.
And as a fellow A-cup, I gave in and made a bra for myself and it’s the best fitting one I own. Having the kit with all the right fabrics really helped. Summerset (of Hooks and Wires) has a website as well with a pictoral step-by-step set of instructions for several of the Elan patterns. It was a great help.
Good luck!
May 5, 2010 at 5:25 pm
selfishseamstress
Oooh- good resources– thank you!!
May 11, 2010 at 1:34 pm
Meredith P
And be sure and check out Summerset’s other blog Pins and Needles
http://scpbanks.blogspot.com/
She makes wearable art to die for, plus she appears to like cats :-)
Oooh! I like the colors at Hooks and Wires…pretty…shiny…distracted…
May 5, 2010 at 5:06 pm
Karen
OMG, that purple is so pretty, and so it the black. Gotta go look now to see if they have my size.
May 5, 2010 at 5:08 pm
Colleen P.
Each packet costs 19.50 in Euro-just look up the current exchange rate against the dollar. It’s probably around $30 right now-not bad for a bra with all this lace trim and beading.
From what I can tell it includes the lace, shoulder straps, hooks and eyes, picot (usually the elastic trim that goes around the bottom), the lycra for the basic body of the bra itself, the elastic for the cups and underarm area and all the trims and beading. I think the one ending in “katoen” is a lace decoration of some sort for the center front, but don’t quote me on that. Sorry, I only speak very limited Amsterdam tourist Dutch, mostly consisting of “take me to the campground near Amsterdam forest” and “Direct me to this restaurant on Haarlemstraadt”.
May 5, 2010 at 10:23 pm
Anonymous
Actually, you are right about most of the supplies. However, ‘katoen’ simply means ‘cotton’. The kits contain a piece of matching cotton jersey to line the crotch area of the panties. As far as I can tell, these kits contain pretty much all you’d need for a bra and panties set, just no underwires (which makes sense, because those should be bought by size and style) As you mention in the next comment, you could always contact the company in English, we all learn English in highschool. I put a very limited list of sewing term translations on my blog a while ago: http://petitmainsauvage.blogspot.com/2009/07/translating-sewing-terms.html and I’m happy to help with specific questions.
May 6, 2010 at 6:53 am
Colleen P.
LOL-yes after looking at it for a time I finally said it out loud, and the penny dropped “COTTON!! It’s cotton!” I keep reading it as “a bit of ….”. It’s been years since I visited Amsterdam, and while it’s easy to pick up enough Dutch to get by short term, you tend to lose it pretty quickly. I’d go back again in a heartbeat if I could, it’s one of the most beautiful cities in the world, in my opinion!
May 6, 2010 at 7:08 am
Colleen P.
Thanks so much for posting the translation list-that’s very helpful!
May 5, 2010 at 5:12 pm
Colleen P.
Oh, and if you contact the company in English, there are probably loads of people there that speak English and can help you. It’s much easier, apparently, to learn English after Dutch than vice-versa, and in my (limited and touristy) experience, in any group of 5 or more, someone speaks perfect English and is more than happy to help you. Wonderful place, go there if you can!
May 5, 2010 at 5:12 pm
Miss Celie
Shut the Front Door! You were a cheerleader??? LOL. How I wish you lived next door! I too bought bra kits last year. I am sadly kind of uneven up top. And, my metabolism took a nose dive last year. So I’m desperate for some good bras. And, I was a sz 7 shoe in 4th grade. So, a pox on your house for being a sz 5. Oh, funny how you mention catalogs. Because J. Crew was my homeboy back in college.
May 5, 2010 at 5:30 pm
selfishseamstress
Haha. I was sort of an “ironic” cheerleader. My reasoning when I joined the team was this: “If I become a cheerleader, then I can *tell* people that I’m a cheerleader, and that will be FUNNY.” To this day I get endless mileage out of “Back when I was a cheerleader” stories. Because seriously, I am NOT the cheerleading type, nor was I at 18. It was cool though- the other girls were nice, we got anything we wanted for free from the concessions stands, and it fulfilled my gym credits so I didn’t have to take any gym classes. My school was not much of a sports school (or, for that matter, a cheerleading school), and I was a pretty bad cheerleader. As a dancer, I could kick high and jump high and do all the routines well, but I never figured out how football worked and was forever accidentally cheering for the opposing team :D
May 5, 2010 at 7:57 pm
Kerry
I was a cheerleader too, for very similar reasons. I wanted something to do during the winter sports season my senior year of HS – fresh and soph years I was in Drama club, and junior year I tried gymnastics. I got fed up with all the girls who insisted that cheerleading was a sport and should be taken seriously, so I tried out for the team just to prove making varsity wasn’t exactly a challenge.
I’ve got photographic evidence of this on my Facebook page.
May 6, 2010 at 9:50 pm
dana
Dude! this is like our once-upon-a-time plans of masquerading as young co-eds and Greek-rush-ing during grad school!
May 5, 2010 at 5:16 pm
Carol
I’ve been thinking seriously about making bras lately, too. I’ve not been able to find a pattern for a bra that doesn’t have a 3 inch high bit in the middle. This pattern you have found seems closer to the kind I would wear, so I will do a search and see what I can find. We smaller breasted ladies seem to be forgotten in a world where so many women are enhancing their assets with silicone. Like you, I had the perfect bra in my 20’s. The Triumph Show Off. When they were discontinued I bought every one I could find. I will watch your progress with interest!
May 5, 2010 at 5:28 pm
Weaverbec
I also couldn’t find decent-looking A-cup bras. I ordered an Elan kit. It was very easy! I first made a muslin of the cup from non-woven interfacing. My husband was more than happy to help with the fitting! There was an article in Threads magazine #71 written by Cynthia Elam. http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/3729/the-bra-dilemma-solved The hardest component for me to find has been the 3/8″ plush elastic. I’ve also made Kwik Sew #2101. It’s so nice to have custom-fitted beautiful bras. Enjoy your new sewing adventure.
ps: I have the same book about shoe-making and I just can’t get myself to put my foot in a vat of plaster-of-paris.
May 5, 2010 at 5:36 pm
selfishseamstress
You can get the plush elastic from Sew Sassy, but in a somewhat limited range of colors:
http://www.sewsassy.com/BraProducts/Accessories.html#anchorPlushElastic
I totally feel you on the plaster of Paris foot mold thing. It reminds me of a particular chapter in Little Women when Amy decides to make an art project of casting her foot in plaster, and then she can’t get it out. Her sisters end up having to cut her foot out of the bucket with a knife and end up slicing her foot with it. Probably the goriest passage in Little Women and doesn’t exactly breed confidence ;)
May 5, 2010 at 5:38 pm
K-Line
You should check out Bra-Makers (from Canada). They have an excellent collection of fabrics and all of the materials you could ever need to sew great bras. I’ve been trying to make one to fit my voluptuous chest. I’ve made 5 so far and I’m not quite there – but I’m getting closer. I’m sure it won’t take you anywhere near that many tries!
May 5, 2010 at 6:01 pm
Germania
I also wear a size five shoe, so I feel your pain. On the good side, I’ve discovered that I really enjoy wearing kids socks (they don’t bunch up at the heel). However I do not want to learn how to make shoes. I think that’s just asking for trouble (for me).
But making your own bra?! That’s pretty snazzy. I’m jealous.
May 5, 2010 at 6:25 pm
lorrwill
Not to be a bummer, but the only person I know who ordered a kit found things missing and not enough fabric. In fact, the entire class did.
I hope you have better luck!
So fine! Be motivational for me to use at least one of the two patterns I have had for far too long and some of the supplies I ordered from Sew Sassy…er…a couple of years ago…
May 5, 2010 at 6:35 pm
lorrwill
Oh yes – you have to make matching panties, too, you know.
mwaa-haa-haa-haa-haa!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
May 5, 2010 at 10:10 pm
Pamela
You don’t have to use plaster to cast your foot. Martha did a segment where they made a cast of a hand. It came out giving the finger; really one of the more entertaining shows…but I digress.
http://www.marthastewart.com/article/cast-hand-craft
They used Alja-Safe alginate, available,complete with video instruction, here:
http://www.smooth-on.com/Lifecasting/c1240/index.html
They even show how to make silicone body parts! Imagine the possibilities! This stuff is used in theatre and film, as well as by your dentist. It’s an entertaining website.
I would so love to make shoes, or perhaps take a trip to Argentina where there are still craftsmen who can do it.
May 5, 2010 at 10:16 pm
Annie
I feel your pain on the shoes. I’m also a size 5, which is cool if you want trendy, cheap and low heeled because you can buy kids shoes. If you want nice, classy, well made, high heels, not so much.
I got a hair up my butt last year and thought I’d make a bunch of bras. I bought all the stuff and started one but still haven’t finished it. I’m your standard size 36C, which is often sold out. What can I say, sometimes I have the attention span of a knat (and I wonder where my 10 year old gets it from)?
May 5, 2010 at 10:33 pm
Lauriana
I have recently started making lingerie as well, also motivated by the A-cup-issue. I would like to mention though that even when making your own bra, you are still still dependant on the sizing of patterns and supplies. I took a course drafting the patterns to overcome that first problem but I’m struggling to find the right underwires (it’s hard to find smaller than B and cutting and reshaping them sounds easier than it really is. Re-using wires from old bras is an option, but only if you’re making the same style, e.g. push-up underwires don’t fit in normal bras)
May 6, 2010 at 2:11 am
Marie-Christine
I’m now a size 11, so while on the other side of the spectrum I totally understand your pain..
Bras are better though. First you need to get in touch with Sigrid http://sigridsewingprojects.blogspot.com/ and sign up for the lingerie sew-along where you will learn a lot. Then you need to check out http://www.elingeria.de/catalog/index.php the German part shouldn’t scare -you- :-). Their kits are quite good, generous and good quality.
Then imho you need to get yourself a copy of Beverly Johnson’s bra-maker manual, which mercifully comes in a cheaper and more compatct CD form now. If that had been out when I tried my first class, with an Elan bra that poked me mercilessly in the side, I’d have been making them for 20 years. Her site is http://www.bramakerssupply.com and has a lot of info too.
Anyway, independance from VS is highly recommended :-).
May 6, 2010 at 8:00 am
Justiina
I definitely second the suggestion to visit Elingeria !!!! They have everything you need for bra-making, wonderful quality, and excellent service! (NAYY!!!)
May 6, 2010 at 7:33 am
Myrna
Making a bra is easy… and fun. I took a class last fall and sewed with the pattern from BraMakersSupply.com in Canada. Worked great. The bra is very comfortable. I just sewed one for my daughter who is hard to fit and so far, so good. She’s looking forward to something besides white and beige too although she’s going to have to learn to sew them herself. One set is a gift from Mom. More is a chore. There’s a great OOP book called Sewing Lingerie That Fits that you might enjoy if you can find it. Panties, slips, bras and so on.
May 8, 2010 at 4:54 pm
lorrwill
Amazon price is really scary. It is $16.77 USD here
http://www.biggerbooks.com/bk_detail.aspx?ISBN=9781561583096
I just ordered one.
May 8, 2010 at 4:54 pm
lorrwill
For the Sewing Lingerie book, that is.
May 6, 2010 at 10:56 am
Angela
Ooo.. those lace pieces are gorgeous! I’ve always wanted to make a bra, too…
May 6, 2010 at 1:21 pm
Cathy
I’ve been reading for a while, but never felt the compulsion to reply and I just had to post. I’m wearing the front closing version of that bra right now! I LOVE making bras and lingerie, it’s quick to make up, just fiddly in a few spots.
I’m going to echo the recommendations above:
Beverly Johnston’s book is awesome, lots of hints on how to adjust a pattern, the why behind the instructions, inspiration for pattern alterations, and clone a bra you have and love. Well worth the investment.
I ordered from sew sassy too. They gave enough of the supplies but not enough of the pretty lace at the top for the lace pattern to match up. Honestly, don’t expect that first one to fit very well. My third bra is now my absolute favourite bra. You’ll end up with enough powernet and tricot from the kit to make a second bra, but you’ll need more elastic, underwire, etc. At least with a white kit you can look at it as a potentially wearable muslin and dye it if you really don’t like white.
The link to the Threads article on bra making is great, worth the read.
I am struggling to find the picot edge band elastic in local fabric stores. I have enough of everything else to make many many bras, but I think I’ll have to order more from either sew sassy or bra makers supply (who have a better selection of colours, btw).
My funny story. I also bought a Kwik Sew pattern at the same time and made that one up first. It was okay, but the cup didn’t quite fit my shape and as the pattern is written, it’s not supportive enough. Rather than tweaking that pattern, I moved on to the Elan pattern which I was more excited about anyhow. I didn’t notice that there weren’t seam allowances on the pattern and I was sewing thinking, jeez, this looks a lot smaller than my D cup… So, I now have a pretty, half finished, minature bra that gave me enough confidence to cut into the pretty purple satin.
May 6, 2010 at 5:43 pm
beth
Why oh why did I waste 8 years of my life as a French honors student, when CLEARLY the germanic languages would have been much more useful and brought me sewing joy?????????
May 6, 2010 at 5:55 pm
Amy
OK – so you are really tempting me here… I am a 32AA… I can’t find ANYTHHING that fits well and have resorted to wearing my daughter’s training bras after she outgrew them. I’m assuming that I would have to figure out how to make the cup sizes of these bras smaller since they are all an A cup and nothing smaller? Any suggestions from anyone would be helpful.
To have something cute and sexy would be divine. Esp since I have the chest of a 12yo boy.
May 7, 2010 at 11:02 am
Cricket
SOOO glad you’re going to do this! I intend to learn from all your ghastly mistakes. Spare us no detail. I have Summerset’s kits (also Elan, but purtier, with white for learning on) bookmarked.
I, of course, have the other bust problem — small band size, large cup size, and so have determined that I should learn how to sew a bra so as not to spend more than 1/2 the clothing budget on utilitarian items. And also so they’re prettier.
May 7, 2010 at 1:57 pm
Emily
I am always tempted to make my own bras because I’m a “gear” girl and all the bits and pieces that go into a bra are intoxicating to me.
For those of you who don’t think you’ll try your hand at it (and are A or AA cup size, have you tried lualu.com? I have not ordered from them but they cater to petite lingerie needs. The selection seems lovely – makes me almost wish I were an A instead of a B cup! Can’t speak to the quality tho. :)
May 8, 2010 at 4:37 pm
lorrwill
Having just spent a good 2 hours on the interwebs trying to find a tiny bra to fit her, this selfish-type wannabe seamstress is about to go postal. It is a very good think she lives alone.
Having lost some unwanted “middle-age” spread, I am now a 28 – 30″ band again. I am pretty sure I am a micro B cup, because A cups smoosh me. Even if I were silicon-enhanced, finding a 28″ band (as recommended by Figleaves) outside of sports bras, proved to be IMPOSSIBLE. At least there are some 30″ bands out there. Some meaning about 3. grrrrrrrrrr. And why do they assume you want to pad yourself into other cup sizes? Not all small sisters feel the need to fake bigger boobies retailers!!!!!! grrrrrrrrrrrr.
The long over due moral of this story:
You are so on the right track with making your own!
I will be starting to muslin this after I finish getting a tiny weeny slacks pattern that will fit me. (Been working on the latter for several weeks now.)
May 9, 2010 at 1:53 am
Behold, a muslin! « (lorrwill)
[…] other news and on the heels of this post by The Selfish Seamstress, I spent easily 2 hours today trying to find a bra to fit me. Band size […]
May 9, 2010 at 11:04 pm
senaSews
I had this impulse buy years ago. Never came around to sew them up. Maybe your gorgeous sewn lingerie will motivate me to finally use them up!
May 10, 2010 at 8:27 am
Amber
Oh, I’m interested to hear how the bra-making turns out. I about died and went to heaven when I found the Wacoal Petite line of bras. While the vast majority of me is *not* petite, my chest most definitely is. :/ The bras don’t come in a ton of colors, but the entire line ranges from a 32AA to 36B and has pretty details on most of the bras. It’s like a goldmine for the itty bitty titty committee. ;)
May 14, 2010 at 10:02 pm
Patricia
There is a yahoo group you ladies may be interested in. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Kathy_s/ Kathy has picot edge, fold over, plush, waistband, strap, clear strap elastic plus swimwear elastic. She also has Victoria’s Secret Satin fabric and can suggest color matches for the elastic, lace, etc. She is a terrific person. She aslo has a syster group. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SewingPanties/ These are some very talented and helpful members.
I hope this helps. Kathy’s pricing is amazing and she ships quickly.
Good luck,
Patricia