Regular readers of this blog (not that you are in any way regular, as you are all special and magnificent!) are probably already aware of my obsession with vintage gowns and vintage gown patterns, namely those from the mid- to late-1950s. Of course, my occasions for wearing frothy 55-year old tulle and organza confections dwindles as my age increases (and it’s been more than two years since I’ve gotten my butt out to a swing dance, which previously was how I “justified” sewing and buying such gowns, even though 40s and 30s fashion would probably have been more era-appropriate.) But the love is still there.
If a magical fairy came to me and said she would imbue me with the design abilities of any designer I liked, there are days that I would pick Dior or Givenchy or Chanel. Ahh, to have that genius and sense of style and beauty. But today (and many other days), I crave the skills of a much lesser known creator of marvelously and brilliantly draped 1950s party garb, Ceil Chapman. I don’t know much about Ceil Chapman (you can find a bio of her from the Vintage Fashion Guild), but wowee zowee, could she drape! And her eye for those gorgeous feminine lines and silhouettes of the 50s – the wide necks, the wasp waists, the elegant deep backs, the use of ruching to flatter the bust and hips… *swoon.* Nonstop feminine glamour. I’ll let the photos speak for themselves:
Right? Am I right? Ah to be able to pull out a couple of yards of taffeta and your dressform and be able to whip up something like this. Well, we’re (sort of) in luck, because as it turns out, the Spadea pattern company did publish some Ceil Chapman designs! They’re hard to come by and can get pretty pricey, but they do pop up on eBay and other vintage pattern places:
And even luckier for us (and by us I specifically mean “me”), Vintage Fashion Library produces a reasonably priced ($24.99) Spadea pattern reproduction of what I find to be one of Ceil Chapman’s most beautiful and iconic designs, the “Skylark.” (This name should have been a more graceful and evocative dress title, but I think Buick came along and ruined the mystique.)
The portrait collar and draped bust, the draping across the hips, the slim skirt with flowing panels… it’s almost too much 1950s goodness crammed into one dress! I’d been waffling on buying this pattern for a while and finally I decided I’d better just get one because surely at some point in my life I’m going to want to wear that :) (And yes, I was sure to buy mine before telling you about it, but there are more copies still in stock, so if you want one, head over there.) Granted the pattern is for a 34″ bust and I suspect that figuring out how to re-engineer that elaborate bodice down to 29″ (Sigh. So not a figure built for the va-va-voom 1950s fashions that I love) will not be trivial.
So there you go. Ceil Chapman is the person I want to sew like today. How about you? Who’s your current fashion and design idol?
29 comments
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March 26, 2010 at 8:50 am
Beangirl
I love that pattern and it would make a TOTALLY AWESOME (yes, in capital letters) wedding dress. You know. If someone were to get married or something. Hypothetically, because of course I’m not implying that people should get married. I’m just saying.
My design idol….? Hmmm…. Hard to say. Too many to choose from. Today Anna Sui is my designer girlfriend (and not Angie A’s) but tomorrow… could be anyone. I’m cheap like that.
March 26, 2010 at 9:02 am
selfishseamstress
Hehehe, if *someone* were to get married, then a certain unmarried other someone would totally find a way to grade that pattern down to a 29″ bust, sew it up out of luminous ruby red silk taffeta, and wear it to *someone’s* wedding to upstage the bride and fend off pitying glances and questions about someone else’s still-single-at-34 state. That’s totally what you were getting at, right? :)
March 26, 2010 at 1:36 pm
Beangirl
of course. duh.
March 26, 2010 at 9:07 am
Gertie
Holy fecking shet! You’re not kidding about that dress and the rose print I posted about! You have NO IDEA how much you have inspired me, my dear! Now to find the right pattern . . .
March 26, 2010 at 9:26 am
selfishseamstress
Cool :) I can’t wait to see it on you. And when I do, you can bet I’ll be sighing with envy over your ability to transform yourself instantly into Ava Gardner.
I recently purchased a rose print stretch sateen with a similarly 50s vibe to it off of eBay, but the roses are much bigger than I expected (like 6″ in diameter!). I think whatever I end up making from it will probably look considerably frumpier than Ms. Chapman’s lovely sheath.
March 26, 2010 at 10:05 am
jen
I looooove Ceil Chapman dresses, but my favorite designer is Vionnet. Currently drooling over this book. http://www.amazon.com/Madeleine-Vionnet-Betty-Kirke/dp/0811819973
March 26, 2010 at 10:17 am
selfishseamstress
Hi Jen:
I’m with you on Vionnet- what an innovator. There’s also a Japanese book with Vionnet replica patterns. I don’t have it but I do sometimes drool over it as well:
http://www.etsy.com/view_listing.php?listing_id=40076874&ref=sr_gallery_3&&ga_search_query=vionnet+book&ga_search_type=all&ga_page=&includes%5B%5D=tags&includes%5B%5D=title
Fashion Incubator had a post about the two books:
http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/japanese_vionnet_book/
March 26, 2010 at 11:05 am
kathleen
These clothes all like like what my mom, who was quite the fashion plate, wore in the fifties. I’m a late forties Dior fan, myself, but I also love Schiaparelli and Balenciaga.
March 26, 2010 at 11:16 am
Constance
I saw a dress today that reminded me of you and your lovely dresses, its not Chapman (and on that note check out Charles James) but still a fabulous, and sadly size negative 2 (so Ill show the world since I cant have it), vintage extravaganza… Link! http://cgi.ebay.com/SEXY-Low-Back-BIG-BOWVintage-1950s-WIGGLE-DRESS_W0QQitemZ160416828434QQcmdZViewItemQQptZVintage_Women_s_Clothing?hash=item2559968c12
March 26, 2010 at 1:30 pm
selfishseamstress
Ooooh, thanks for thinking of me! That glamorous cocktail style is usually pretty hard to find in petite sizes. The chic styles like that usually more like 36″ bust, whereas the frothier girlish “prom” styles are easier to find in small sizes. I’d still need inches of padding in my bra to pull that dress off, but it is *tempting*. Love that fabric too!
March 26, 2010 at 11:59 am
Angela
Wow! Such beautiful dresses!
March 26, 2010 at 1:10 pm
sewbissy
Thanks so much for introducing us to this lovely designer. My favorite? Vionnet. Always Vionnet. But now thanks to this post, she’s got competition.
March 26, 2010 at 4:47 pm
Kayy
I had never heard of Ceil Chapman before my friend dropped off a dress she thought I should look at: http://kaythesewinglawyer.blogspot.com/2010/02/vintage-1950s-ceil-chapman-party-dress.html Wow!
March 26, 2010 at 4:48 pm
Judy
While I sigh and drool over these amazing designs, the designer I would most like to be is Issey Miyake. I can’t put into words how excited I get by his phenomenal designs – “unique” and “innovative” as descriptors don’t even scratch the surface. My Dad is a retired structural engineer and I think I picked up an appreciation for that sort of thing from him. I also love Vionnet though. I wouldn’t mind her skills with bias draping either. Not very similar are they?
March 26, 2010 at 4:52 pm
Meredith P
http://kaythesewinglawyer.blogspot.com/2010/02/vintage-1950s-ceil-chapman-party-dress.html
This is a designer you’ll recognize, modelled by our very own Sewing Lawyer. Completely drool-worthy dress AND it fits her like it was made for her.
The Sewing Lawyer is an impeccable sewist as well!
March 26, 2010 at 5:46 pm
CGCouture
I’m madly in love with the one from Vogue 1954 with all the ruching and the 3/4 sleeves. I’d never have a need to wear it though, so I’ll just covet from a distance.
March 26, 2010 at 6:33 pm
Carol
I would probably kill for that first rose print dress.
March 26, 2010 at 7:21 pm
formalsandmore
I think Ceil Chapman is my new hero!
March 27, 2010 at 4:37 am
Anonymous
Nice…but are they machine washable?
March 27, 2010 at 4:42 am
peter
I’m the troll above, just wasn’t signed in.
I hope this isn’t the flowered fabric you’re talking about or otherwise we’re gonna be twins (“Sisters, sisters…they’re were never such devoted sisters….”
http://picasaweb.google.com/PeterLappinNYC/NewFabric#5424698451666658338
March 27, 2010 at 8:18 am
jenny
I got a Chapman on ebay – a really short auction, no reserve, over labor day weekend, got the dress for a song (literally). Classic, classic Chapman silhouette, lots of ruching, with it’s own crinoline, in silver and pale blue. Unfortunately, the seller had measured the *outside* of the dress, not the inside, which due to the ruching, was a good bit smaller than the outside. I couldn’t part with it, though, and hopefully my 18 month old daughter will be able to wear it when she’s grown.
I do love Chapman, and Dior. The original Lanvin did wonderful things. And for contemporary designers, Alber Elbaz: not everything, but once in a while, he does magical things.
March 27, 2010 at 1:25 pm
Saturday Links « Sewsterhood
[…] This post by the Selfish Seamstress has me wishing I knew more about designers. Madeleine Vionnet is the only one I really know a thing or two about (love her pioneering bias-cut dresses). […]
March 27, 2010 at 7:47 pm
Tammy
Drool, drool, drool – how I wish for my figure from my 20’s and early 30’s – I would buy every one of those patterns and make them. I wouldn’t care that I had know where to wear them – just to own the pattern and have the dresses in the closet. You know what – I wouldn’t put them in the closet – I would hang them on the wall as art. Swoon !!
March 28, 2010 at 10:30 am
JoanneM
I too love vintage dresses in a contemporary world(I don’t like vintage fabric-go figure). Have you visited sovintage.com? You would love it. Be prepared for sticker shock, but for an afternoon of eye candy, it is fun to visit. Enjoy!
March 28, 2010 at 7:54 pm
Kathi
The dresses you included are lovely! We all need to get dressforms and start working!
March 30, 2010 at 8:45 am
amber
I’ve never heard of Chapman, but I think I could get very used to living in dresses like that. Dear lord, they are just gorgeous!
March 31, 2010 at 7:38 pm
Why are we all so stupid? » Not Our Wedding
[…] amazing dress from The Selfish Seamstress would be […]
April 30, 2010 at 2:12 pm
Anonymous
The red rose dress is stunning! So feminine but edgy at the same time!
April 21, 2013 at 10:48 am
Jane
My grandmother worked as a dress maker for her. I can remember my mom and aunts wearing “really fancy” dresses that she made for them.