Just a quickie report on my Burda 8.2009.128 dress, the one I am sewing dangerously. I didn’t make too much progress yesterday, but managed to do the pleats and assemble the shell of the dress minus the sleeves. I was too tired to put it on to show to you, but here it is lying on the floor, looking none too perky:
I managed to beat the darts into submission. And here’s a close up of the pleats, which are looking pretty good so far, and based on an initial test fit seem to be working out and not doing any unflattering belly emphasizing:
There is about a quarter of an inch gap between those two central pleats, and I suppose it was probably intended that they meet perfectly to form an upside-down V, but the little gap isn’t really bothering me, and I actually rather like it that way.
As for the fit, so far so good without alteration (though surely at some point this belief of mine that I no longer have to muslin Burda dresses is going to come back to bite me in the butt, no?). Obviously it will need to be shortened at the hem, but that’s standard for me. It appears to be slightly roomier across the upper back than some of my other Burda sheath dresses, but I’m assuming that this is because I’ll need that ease once the sleeves are set in.
That’s it for now, but keep your eyes peeled because I’m going to have a fun sewing story for you sometime later today (time permitting)! Who wants storytime?
22 comments
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March 24, 2010 at 7:59 am
erin
MUST get a hold of this pattern!
any suggestions?
March 24, 2010 at 8:42 am
selfishseamstress
Burda sells back issues of magazines assuming that they still have them in stock, so you can contact them to see. There is a copy of this issue for sale on Ebay now, if you’re willing to pay dearly for it :) I often buy issues from German Ebay (ebay.de) as they tend to be plentiful there, but they will be in German so if you can’t get by without instructions or don’t speak German, this probably isn’t a great option. (The dress itself is straightforward if you have experience in assembling basic lined dresses with sleeves.)
You could try posting an ad for it on Pattern Review- many people have not
been so happy with Burda lately, so there may be folks who would happily sell the issue to you.
Unfortunately this pattern was published before Burda started making downloadable versions of all the magazine patterns, so that’s not an option.
Other than that, some public libraries carry Burda so you could call and ask if yours has it, but I think the ones that do are few and far between if you’re in the US.
March 24, 2010 at 10:46 am
Marlena
I’d love to have some back issues too and I never thought to check the library. FYI, for anyone interested, I did a quick check on OCLC (a worldwide library database) and it appears Hennepin County Library in Minnesota carries it, but that’s all I can find at the moment in the US. Toronto Public Library carries it too. And lots of libraries in Germany!
March 24, 2010 at 11:37 am
erin
i know, i lurked around the ebay one for a while. my cheapness won out. thanks for the tips! will scour the vast internet for a copy of my very own (and use brother-in-law’s translation skillz if need be)!!
March 24, 2010 at 8:01 am
Auntie Allyn
Looks fabulous . . . I love that style of dress! And yes, I could use a good story . . . let ‘er rip!
March 24, 2010 at 8:54 am
BeckyMc
Who wants story time? I do! Ido!
March 24, 2010 at 9:07 am
DC
I cant wait to see how this dress turns out for you. I have been wanting to make it for a long time. I finally decided to do V8511 instead. (I didnt want to trace the pattern!!!) I thought these were very similar styles BUT, let me tell you. The vogue pattern is not very fitted at all. I saw in some of the reveiws the sleeves werent fitted but the pleats are huge!! I already dont have the flattest tummy around to say the least and this definitely didnt help. (Say Pregnant) I eventually took one pleat out and made the next one half its size, but left the center. The best thing about the dress is the princess seaming in the bodice and I made it in a print. I probably will make the Burda version after I find out how you like the pattern!!LOL!
March 24, 2010 at 9:14 am
Susan - Knitters Delight
Story please!
March 24, 2010 at 9:46 am
sweeteskimokisses
Ooh me, me, me!
Watching your lovely dress come together is so exciting!
March 24, 2010 at 10:28 am
Micmacker
Selfish Seamstress storytime – yay!
March 24, 2010 at 11:18 am
CGCouture
I can’t wait to hear a debilitati…I mean, funny Selfish Seamstress story. :-P
March 24, 2010 at 12:53 pm
Kerry
Oh Selfish One,
I wanted to let you know that I am working on My First Burda, the lovely Hikaru jacket that you made a while back and alerted me to.
I did not muslin because I was just plain too lazy. I did have to grade down to a 32 as you did, and I did this mainly because you are my size and you graded down and yours fits appropriately. I also shortened it at the peplum.
Anyhoo, it is intact without sleeves as of now and it fits perfectly – actually it fits snug because I am using this interesting cashmere-wool-poly blend fabric that stretches like a stretch fleece, but also shrinks when you steam press it. The end result will most likely be a very form fitting jacket, but I am loving it so far. I was surprised to find such a great fit without any alterations – even patterns that are supposed to be in my size are usually too big.
I did, however, want to complain to you. You see, when I am making a new pattern and I am undecided about things like “should I topstitch this” or “what size/color buttons should I use and how many”, I like to look to the Internet for advice. And when I did a Google Image search for “Burda Hikaru”, I got loads of photos of…The Selfish Seamstress. And not just her Hikaru jacket either….I got photos of every other thing you have sewed.
Knock it off. I want photos of OTHER HIKARUS, not this “all selfishseamstress” stuff. Seriously, you’re taking over the Internet.
March 25, 2010 at 6:38 am
selfishseamstress
Hahaha. I don’t think I muslined it either. I do recall having a lot of trouble with those sleeves too- I think I must have trimmed the sleeve cap like 3 times and then I may have eventually redrafted the whole sleeve altogether :)
Yeah, I’m working on a merger deal with Google, so in a couple of months you can expect it to be called Selfish Seamsoogle. You’ll google for stuff and it will all be me in the results. But in the meantime, here are your other Hikarus:
http://www.burdastyle.com/search/projects?key=hikaru
And there should be a couple on PR too :)
March 25, 2010 at 12:27 pm
Kerry
I was anxiously awaiting the need to redraft the sleeve caps, but I actually did not have to do that. I think this is a function of several things:
1.) My fabric was stretchy wool, which made it a bit easier to ‘stretch’ the armhole to accommodate the sleeve cap
B.) I use the “tie interfacing” technique for sleeve ease instead of ease stitching. However, I ran out of Andy’s ties to sacrifice for the cause after sewing both of our wool coats, so instead I started using plain old bias strips of muslin (15″x1″) and it works perfectly fine. I tried this on a stretch poly suit jacket I recently completed and it worked just as well as the tie interfacing.
My sleeves went in perfectly on the first try, and only one of them needed a little tweaking to eliminate a tiny bit of gathering.
Here’s a link to the technique – I will never, ever use ease stitching again on a coat or a jacket sleeve:
http://rustybobbin.com/blog/?p=1363
March 24, 2010 at 3:00 pm
Karen
It looks great- you sure get a lot done at night! I can’t wait to see it on you. I’l vote yes on storytime also!
March 24, 2010 at 3:52 pm
Renita
I can’t wait for a Selfish Seamstress story—can you skip dinner *LOL*
March 24, 2010 at 5:32 pm
amber
Oh, it’s looking good! The pleats turned out really well. :)
March 25, 2010 at 9:29 am
melissa
eh I think you’re fine to sew Burdas without muslining. I’ve probably sewn about 50-60 BWOFs in my time and only had ONE (recently, too) not fit in the standard Burda way. So for me, that’s a pretty good track record and I”ll continue to sew with abandon.
March 27, 2010 at 12:30 am
Eva
Oh cool! I’ve just started making this pattern too! Keep us all updated :)
March 27, 2010 at 3:17 pm
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March 29, 2010 at 2:14 am
senaSews
I don’t make muslins for Burda patterns, too. No risk, no fun. Your dress looks beautiful so far. Can’t wait to see the finished dress!
April 2, 2010 at 5:38 pm
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