I’ve been gently chided from time to time by readers for always sewing in neutrals and dull colors, and it’s true. For color, I rely on crimson, violet, or leaf green sweaters that I’ve knitted or purchased, or basic knit tops of the H&M variety since I’m not so jazzed about sewing basic tops. When sewing, however, I stick mostly to black, white, grays, and browns, and also their good friends taupe, tan, charcoal, cream, and beige. When I’m feeling a little crazy, I toss in some olive green or navy. Not to mention my penchant for solids, subtle stripes, and saner plaids, with frequent forays into herringbone. What can I say? I try to sew what I know I’m going to wear a lot, and that means more brown than fuchsia. But, in light of some gentle and encouraging prods to incorporate more color and pattern into my sewing, I’ve decided that maybe I should heed your advice… later. When I feel like it.
For now, I want a solid black wrap dress.
And not just any black wrap dress, but the most austere, un-whimsical, and un-fun wrap dress you can imagine. The kind of sleek black wrap dress you accessorize with nothing more than high cheekbones, black wedge sandals, Prada sunglasses, and a frosty attitude. (I do not possess any of these, but I think I can probably cultivate the attitude with a little effort.) No cheerful print, no summery colors, no superfluous swing to the skirt, just enough fullness to keep it from looking like a bathrobe. Sort of like dress 114 from Burda 9.2006 (minus some of the details), which I unfortunately do not have:
Such a dress may seem like an unusual wish for someone who can make her own clothes and therefore can wander somewhat freely through the realm of creative possibilities. But I have the kind of figure that RTW wrap dresses NEVER fit. It’s Gape City with a possible side trip to Safetypinville when it comes to me and wrap dresses. And I have wanted a black wrap dress for a long time.
I’m going to start with the ever popular Vogue 8379:
Hmm. I am already skeptical of those pretty, friendly-looking pleats and fear that they might soften up the “don’t-talk-to-me” attitude of my dress. But ultimately I think they’ll be more shape flattering than a flat fronted dress on my already flat front. I’ve already started grading down to a 4 (this pattern starts in an 8, so twice the grading fun!) and done an SBA on the bodice front pattern. I’m definitely going to take fullness out of the skirt by slashing and lapping, or maybe just taking it out of the sides. And the whole thing will be rendered in one of the current reigning queens of my stash – gorgeous super-soft solid black wool doubleknit.
Those of you who are shaking your heads in sadness and disappointment over my very dull choices and lack of creativity can take heart: I plan to muslin this (or at least the bodice and sleeves) in this hideous, very 2002 print knit which has been in my stash forever:
And for those of you who may be tempted to try to convince me to make a “production” level version of the dress in this print?
NO.
(Look! I’m already cultivating the frosty attitude to go with the dress! w00t!)
37 comments
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January 15, 2010 at 9:58 am
momtomifters
Sadly, whenever I’ve tried on a wrap dress, my girls like to peek out and say hello to the world. *sigh*. Can’t wait to see your dress!
January 15, 2010 at 10:02 am
Kerry
The reason you trend toward natural earth tones and muted hues is because you are tiny. If you want to look grown up/professional/proportionate, you need to stick to neutral tones. Loud prints on 5′ women make you look like a 6 year old.
I do the exact same thing – all of my sweaters and tops are black/brown/navy/gray/cream. I do have a few things in red, pale blue, and mustard, but I rarely wear that stuff.
I did venture into some bright prints for two dresses that I made last year, but I am afraid to wear them for fear that it would look like the dress is wearing me.
People who are the size of normal adults can get away with prints. Munchkins need to be more conservative if they want to be taken seriously.
January 15, 2010 at 10:08 am
selfishseamstress
Kerry, my dear fellow bonsai human, that made a whole lot of sense. Thanks for articulating that! Munchkin power!
January 15, 2010 at 10:06 am
Julie
“I should heed your advice… later. When I feel like it.”–Hysterical!
Honestly, I have always wished I could pull off the basic neutrals wardrobe without looking homely. My sister wears tons of creams, blacks, grays, and browns, usually in solids or very subtle patterns and rarely with an accent color. She always looks fantastic and turns heads. I put on the same outfit and I look drab and boring. I think 2 things play into it…she has more of a warm/neutral skin color and a very elegant posture/walk. I am more cool-toned and clutzy. Nothing wrong with either. You have to figure out your colors and style and run with it. I wouldn’t push you into colors personally. I tried it with a friend who never wore more than white, black or gray. She rushed back to Nordstrom’s to return the purple blouse I coaxed her into buying. Stick with what works for you and makes you happy. Besides…you’re the one sewing the darn garment anyway!!
January 15, 2010 at 10:16 am
selfishseamstress
I think that’s definitely true, about skin color and maybe hair color too, and how that affects what colors look good on you. Someone once told me that I am a “winter” in terms of coloring. I don’t know what that means exactly, but I have a feeling it explains why I look bad in colors like aqua, mint, or peach. I do wear colors a fair bit, but they have to be very saturated and rich, like eggplant, crimson, and teal- the kinds of colors that might wash out a fair sunny blonde who looks great in aqua. Cool that you and your sister have such different styles!
January 15, 2010 at 10:10 am
beangirl
Holy hell in a handbasket! Do not use that god-awful print to make a real garment! For the love of all that is holy!
(Otherwise I like the dress idea. If I could wear such a garment, I’d be all over that.)
January 15, 2010 at 10:11 am
beangirl
and of course my deepest appologies to those who are easily offended by blasphemy. Not that I’ll stop using blasphemy, mind you, but I do appologize.
January 15, 2010 at 10:12 am
beangirl
Oh good lord. Apparently I can’t SPELL “appologize” but, you get the idea….
January 15, 2010 at 10:18 am
selfishseamstress
I don’t think it counts as blasphemy when the print really *is* hellish :)
January 15, 2010 at 10:31 am
Toby Wollin
The comments about ‘short requires severe’ are spot on. As a fellow shrunken person (though with, ahem, a good deal more padding than you have), I find that although I adore prints dearly, they make me look like I’m trying to recapture myself from my sixth grade class photo. My other go to are shoulder pads because I also have sloping shoulders and with a little angularity in the shoulders not only does my waist (or what’s left of it) tend to look smaller, but it gives me at least the feeling of a little more importance and I’ll take that.
January 15, 2010 at 10:49 am
Jewelia14
I have the Vogue pattern in my stash for the very same project! Should we have a sew-along? My long-time plan has been to incorporate detachable collar and cuffs in white. Too much?
January 15, 2010 at 10:49 am
Helen
Personally, I think you should go with what you like and feel comfortable in because otherwise, you’re never going to wear it. I don’t know how many times I’ve been told to wear this color or that but the garment stays in the closet or goes back eventually to the store because it wasn’t something that I liked myself. Though I admire prints and bright colors on others, when I actually look at my wardrobe to see what I naturally go toward, it’s deep and rich hues and neutral tones.
January 15, 2010 at 11:00 am
Donna
Wow! Ya mean you will have a more frosty attitude when you are finished? Don’t know if I want to be around you then. Ha, ha!
I like basic pieces with a pop of color. I am too light skin, light hair to wear just black and white so I tend to make my basics in gray.
I used to love H&M but will no longer shop there after I heard about the awful things they do to the clothes that they can’t sell…..and right next to a homeless shelter!
January 15, 2010 at 1:14 pm
selfishseamstress
Hehe, I think of myself as more of a hot-tempered B than an ice queen ;)
I read about the H&M thing too, and I’m not quite sure what to do about it. I wonder if it is an industry standard also practiced by the likes of Banana Republic, Ann Taylor, etc.? In any case I haven’t bought anything from H&M in a while, but I don’t plan to stop wearing the stuff I already have.
January 16, 2010 at 12:06 pm
Donna
I would like to know also what other companies do. I know that WalMart does the same thing. How do you think we can find out? Couldn’t they just take the labels out and give the things away without destroying any usefulness? That is what gets to me. One of the best reasons to sew for yourself and craft for yourself is so that you are not contributing to labor practices in other countries that make the clothing and toys and etc. that we would not tolerate in this country and so that you don’t contribute to things like this happening!
January 15, 2010 at 11:05 am
Dei
Yeppers. I love color, but sew reasonable-I’ll wear again-And again-My where did you buy that- colors. (Pink being the one exception, can’t explain it, something along the lines of an addiction.) I’m a decent height with a slim frame so loud doesn’t do well on me…looks like I’m trying too hard. Hence the reason why I recommend you continue on your current color route. Everything you’ve sewn is so timeless and deeply coveted by many. As for the Vogue dress, I’ve sewn it and it’s a fab, fab, fab pattern. Throw on the right accessories, especially those Prada’s, and girl you’ve got a winner.
January 15, 2010 at 11:17 am
Laura Georgina
I’m with you on the point that shorties run the risk of looking like preschoolers in bright and crazy prints, but there are ways of working around that. I’m a fellow teeny and find that, as long as my accessories are sufficiently bad-ass and mean-looking, I can get away with bright prints and colors.
Having said that, I wish I could wear more neutrals (and should make an effort) but I need to see the full Crayola color range in my closet to be happy.
January 15, 2010 at 11:33 am
Trudy Callan
Sounds like it will be the perfect dress. I just got this pattern myself. Can’t wait to see your version.
http://www.sewingwithtrudy.blogspot.com
January 15, 2010 at 12:09 pm
spottedroo
Sew what you’ll wear. Every so often I take a look at my closet and decide it needs more prints. Not only are they a royal pain to match (plaids are a different story, plaids are sewing with graph paper), but I never end up wearing them after all that work.
January 15, 2010 at 12:11 pm
Sunni Standing
I think tall women, not just short women, look like preschoolers in crazy prints too. I admit, I’m a print fanatic. I go crazy for prints. Then when I make some time consuming garment out of one, I find that I indeed am verging on looking like a grandma trying to recapture her grandchildren’s youthfulness. And I’m 27 mind you. Prints can be scary, beware! Still like them though. Still want to wear them and think I look like a million dollars. However, everyone needs a black dress. A very good black dress. I’m a more daring color chooser though, have to say, and would prefer it in red. Bright lipstick red.
January 15, 2010 at 12:19 pm
Amanda S.
I’m thinking about purchasing some wool doubleknit. Do you use it for any pattern that calls for a knit? Does it require a lining? Is it scratchy or itchy? I guess that depends on the quality, though. Just wondering because it’s pricey and I don’t want to regret the purchase. I think your dress idea is great! I get bored sewing neutrals and solids but do think they tend to get more wearings. Hmmm… Perhaps I need to start forcing myself to make more.
January 15, 2010 at 1:21 pm
selfishseamstress
I suspect that wool doubleknits vary in texture and quality. The one that I have is so soft that I would hardly guess that it’s wool. I don’t think that it will be a problem wearing it against bare skin. It’s certainly a more stable knit than jersey, and for a wrap dress I think it would provide more structure and less drapey-ness than jersey (similar to the Burda wrap dress in the photo.) I would say that the one that I have is similar in weight and drape to a ponteroma double knit.
That being said, I don’t have a lot of experience with wool doubleknit in general, so I’m not sure how they vary or whether other ones are itchy. Maybe ordering a swatch would be a good idea before you make the investment? I bought mine from Mood so I had the good fortune of being able to feel and pick and choose, but you’re right, it’s a pricey fabric and I can understand your hesitation.
January 15, 2010 at 12:20 pm
Darci
I’ve made Vogue 8379 four times because it’s so fantastic. Had to add snaps at the neck and waist to keep the darn thing closed, but I get soooo many complements on this dress. Enjoy making it! It goes together so fast.
January 15, 2010 at 12:34 pm
Lindsay T
Oh goody, you’re making a wrap dress! I want to make one for my daughter to take to college for dressy occasions, and you and she have similar figures. Good luck!
January 15, 2010 at 3:08 pm
Katherine
I made this dress (am a size 6 with just under a B cup) and I found those front pleats drooped a teensy bit. Granted, I did use silk jersey but I think that the dress didn’t have enough negative ease to keep those pleats tight- caused in part by my bust size. You might make a sleeveless muslin of just that top wrap section to check. On the other hand I didn’t have any problems with staying closed and absolutely no neck gaping. If you go with a fine fabric, consider doubling the bodice instead of a facing, my facing edges show through when I have the bodice wrapped tight. Maybe you’ll check my review on PR, but those are my notes.
January 15, 2010 at 4:25 pm
Lily
Oh dear, wrap dresses are flashing disaster! If you’re not flashing your boobs, you’re flashing your knickers! I think you should make some sort of “faux wrap” for modesty’s sake!
I think it’s great that you’ve found your colours! I’m the complete opposite.. I look great in pastels but absolutely ghastly in earth tones, eggplant and taupe.
Good luck! Can’t wait to see the finished product!
January 15, 2010 at 4:59 pm
nancy K
Hey, I’m not tiny and I’m not a crazy print person either. I have to admit to using more prints lately, but they are never of the ‘crazy’ color variety. To me they are often matronly on women my age. I find them hard to wear on an everyday basis and I love my black, gray, beige and a dash of green. I too wear sweaters in other colors with my neutral sewn pieces. Keep doing what you like not matter what anyone says; you look great.
January 15, 2010 at 8:37 pm
heyvix
Love the sound of the black wool doubleknit. I’ve forced myself to venture into color more–and the last year, even colored prints/patterns–but let’s just say I relapse a lot.
Also, while I think most prints are crappy in general, finding a few prints that are just RIGHT for me in terms of color/scale/non-bleeding-eyeballness has made me rather too happy. Not that you need to go there, NOPE!
January 15, 2010 at 9:19 pm
selfishseamstress
Print lovers, there’s nothing to apologize for :) I don’t hate prints, I just know that I tend not to wear them (I *do* hate the print that I’m using for the wrap dress muslin. There’s no excuse for that one.) But there are plenty of sewers who love prints, know how to work with them, and look great wearing them. Cidell of Miss Celie’s Pants, The Slapdish Sewist, and Amanda of Amanda’s Adventures in Sewing jump to mind. As with all sewing, it’s just a matter of figuring out what works for you. And for me, that’s black :D
January 16, 2010 at 5:04 am
beangirl
It’s really hard to look like the Ice Queen when you’re wearing rainbows.
January 16, 2010 at 9:05 am
6thofdecember
I have that Burda magazine with the wrap dress – which I made in (wait for it) burgundy panné velvet. It is an amazing dress, once you take off all the weird military things; nothing floops open, it’s divinely comfy. And in the world of colour, is coral considered a basic? I own many pairs of grey, brown and even plaid pants and one pair of black. I don’t own a black skirt or dress. I think I have a black t-shirt, somewhere. Favourite combos are brown and pink, brown and turquoise, grey and lilac. Much as I adore Selfish’s sewing – the colours are so sophisticated and classy – on me, I’d look ready for the coffin.
January 17, 2010 at 5:15 am
Miss-g
I recently made V8379 in size 8. I look frumpy in it – the shape looks wrong for me. I’m going to tuck this pattern at the back of my collection and not visit it again any time soon.
January 17, 2010 at 12:54 pm
Cindy
Well, I would never try to convince you to make a production version of your “muslin,” but I think the knit print is surprisingly timeless and attractive.
January 19, 2010 at 10:28 am
amber
I totally understand your deep need for a timeless, simple black wrap dress. TOTALLY! I have a very different shape from you, but still, trying to find a wrap dress to accomodate a small bust and birthing hips is hilarious. Even the DVF standard – yes, I was willing to shell out the big bucks to get a real one – was ridiculous. My husband just shook his head when I stepped out of the dressing room. :/
January 19, 2010 at 2:03 pm
Talk me down if I’m going to do something stupid « The Selfish Seamstress
[…] prints aren’t really my thing. The thing is, despite my commitment to boring solids, and a recent lively comment debate about the merits and disadvantages of prints, I don’t actually dislike prints. I just […]
March 22, 2010 at 5:32 pm
Elizabeth
I am planning on making this dress… Can you tell me exactly how you took the fullness out of the skirt of the dress?
THanks!
March 22, 2010 at 7:22 pm
selfishseamstress
I was going to slash and lap, but I think in the end I just took the fullness out from the sides and maybe removed a little bit of the curve from the waistline. Good luck- it’s a great pattern and I wear the dress a lot.