Whew! It’s been a busy couple of days here at Chez Selfish with little time to sew, and I’ve been making some sloooow progress on a McCall 6305 blouse in navy poplin. I’m kind of lukewarm on the poet sleeves so far- they feel a little bit current-day Meryl Streep or Diane Keaton- pretty and elegant, but a little lacking in edge, and maybe not really my look:

Anyway, seeing as how sewing progress has slowed to a near halt, I thought I’d look for something else to show you, namely these two enormous vintage pattern catalogues that I purchased a few years back. You know, the kind you flip through at Jo-ann, but back from the days long before Jo-ann. They’re McCall August 1957 and Simplicity 1959 volumes (did they really put these things out monthly back then??):

I love looking through these, especially the McCall’s one, as 1956-1958 are some of my favorite years for fashion. Flipping through them, I notice a number of neat trends that I don’t see much these days but that might just be due for a resurrection. I thought I’d share a couple of these with you- who knows? Maybe you’ll be inspired to add one to your list.
For today, I’m featuring the short cape, which was a staple judging by the 1957 McCall book, for both day and evening wear. It appears this little garment was even more popular than the bolero, which is what I usually think of when I picture a light layer over a 1950s dress. (All of the capes pictured are from the McCall book):


Although the short cape is often included with a dress pattern that has a full or semi-full skirt option, the cape is almost always shown with a straight skirted dress, which balances the flare and keep it sleek.

And I especially love the examples in which the short cape is actually integrated into the design of the whole ensemble, such as in this outfit, in which the pleats of the dress are repeated on the cape- how much more interesting and pulled together this looks than it would have with a plain cape!

Or this outfit, in which the cape physically buttons onto the straps of the dress, making for a cute open look, while keeping the cape on the shoulders. This would be so easy to make and add to your sheath dress:

Even very simple short capes add elegance and sophistication:

And check this out- the short cape worn over a jacket! Who would have thought? That’s almost like wearing two jackets! And yet, so much cooler- if I’m not mistaken, the cape actually slips under the collar of the jacket and then attaches right onto the jacket buttons. Oooh, I love brilliant sewing engineering!

I think this trend of the 50s may be due for a revival. In the last few years, we’ve already seen the resurgence of capes in general, usually hitting at the hip or longer and filling the role of light- to mid-weight outerwear. (Actually, now that I think about it, Burda 8/2009 did feature a short version of a cape- it was cute!) The short cape seems like it could fill a somewhat different role, and could also be worn by women who aren’t built like trees. What do you think? Are you interested in seeing this one come back? Weigh in!
Also, let me know if you found this interesting- there are a lot of other nifty vintage trends in my pattern books that I’d be happy to show you as well :)





49 comments
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July 13, 2010 at 11:20 am
Toby Wollin
I actually have one of these patterns because I was so intrigued by the look. These don’t hit me so much as a cape because they are so short – I think they would work so much better for those of us who are, ahem, not tall. I lived through former runs not only on the cape but also on the poncho (shudder) and I can tell you that those of us who are short of limb did not fare well with either of those.
July 13, 2010 at 11:32 am
PetitePear
How timely! I just bought a 1957 capes&stoles pattern book off eBay a few days ago. I was thinking the same thing …short ones seem like they might be more flattering for the 5′ me. I think you’re right that they’re best worn with slim dresses which, unfortunately, don’t work so great for my body type. I really like the idea of the cape that buttons on to the dress, but I guess that makes it less versatile that way (hard to wear with other outfits.)
Much as I love seeing your creations, I’d also love more vintage trend features. Keep them coming!
July 13, 2010 at 11:44 am
selfishseamstress
Hmm… maybe you could try it with a skirt and blouse if the slim dress doesn’t suit you? Ooh, and I’d love to see your book!
July 14, 2010 at 4:32 pm
PetitePear
Well, my book(let) came in and I was rather surprised to see that it’s a knitting/crochet pattern book rather than a sewing pattern book. (The model on the cover looked like it could have been sewn from textured fabric.) Oops! It was kind of fun to look at but really dated and nothing I would wear unlike the ones you’ve shown here. If you’d still like to see I can email you some scans.
July 13, 2010 at 11:33 am
Ruth
Not sure I’m too into the capes, (and being rather more, as you say, built like a tree, thinking they wouldn’t be a good look for me anyway) but I love this post! I’ve been thinking lately about the various elements that make up a shirt, and the neckline on the blue dress in photo 6 is calling to me!
July 13, 2010 at 11:42 am
selfishseamstress
Interesting– I would think the short cape would look good on tall women as well as shorter women (unlike the long cape which usually favors the taller women). They look pretty good on the models in the drawings, who look rather statuesque :) Thanks for the feedback- I was planning on doing a “neckline/collar trends” post in the future- the 1957 ones are *to die for*.
July 15, 2010 at 11:19 am
Ruth
I guess when you said built like a tree I was imagining the truck of an old oak, not a young willow. I am better off avoiding garments that add bulk. ;)
July 13, 2010 at 11:38 am
thislightgetsin
How cute! I just bought Vogue 8604, mostly because I want to make the pants on it but it also came with a pattern for what I thought was a short cape. Turns out it is a jacket – just with really wide kimono sleeves but from the drawing it gives the same effect. I might have to give it a try anyway.
July 13, 2010 at 11:45 am
Tasia
Ooh yeah, I love these. I especially like the button-to-your-dress version.
But I prefer full-skirted dresses, does this mean I can’t do a short cape too? Maybe that’s the rule – full skirted dress with bolero, slim skirted dress with mini cape…
I totally found this interesting. More from your vintage books please!
July 13, 2010 at 11:57 am
selfishseamstress
I checked again and I did discover an instance of the short cape with a full skirt and it’s cute. It’s more girlish than chic, but that’s not a bad thing. The cape on that one is very short- it looks like it hits just below the bust to show off a skinny little waist. I think that’s probably key- I’m guessing it makes for a bad silhouette if you have a full skirt topped by a cape that comes close to the waistline. Unless “lampshade” is the shape you’re going for :)
July 13, 2010 at 12:36 pm
Heather
Hello, enjoyed the post. Yes I have patterns with capes too, and there is one for a full-skirted dress that hits just above the elbow and has a hood lined with the dress fabric. So cute! I also have a short cape with a mandarin collar, and another one that is a bit longer and meant to be made with heavier fabric. It goes with a short sleeved dress. Thanks for the pics from the pattern book. Lovely!
July 13, 2010 at 12:54 pm
Tasia
Ah, thanks! I suppose my look is more girlish than chic anyways… and that makes total sense about needing to show the waist. Lampshade = bad. Unless you’re at a party and it’s on your head, which I never understood but seems to be quite common?
July 13, 2010 at 11:48 am
beangirl
Capes are pure evil. Evil, I say.
On the other hand, re: “things I’d like to see more of from your catalog”- what’s up with the romper on the cover of the McCall’s?
I mean, don’t get me wrong. Rompers are also pure evil. But interesting nonetheless.
July 13, 2010 at 12:00 pm
Jan
I’m about to sew Vogue 1182 and a short cape would be just the thing to provide (stylishly!) a little warmth in over-airconditioned venues. I have some 1940s bolero patterns … clearly the ’50s short cape (which requires more fabric) evolved from that in the postwar, post-rationing boom. And I love all the photos you posted … very chic. *Not* like those ponchos in the 1970s (hi, Toby!).
July 13, 2010 at 12:03 pm
Amy
I do like this retro-recap post. I’m not sure I’m ready to wear short capes – my clothes are almost entirely functional. But they do look cute, and I like to see the pictures!
July 13, 2010 at 12:13 pm
Troy Donahue
I HAD to interrupt my beach vacation to relay this urgent fashion message: those capelets are way oogley. Please leave them in the dustbin of fashion history where they belong!
(This is what happens when I leave town…)
Peter
July 13, 2010 at 12:25 pm
selfishseamstress
Interesting. I can see how they might not suit everyone, or how they might look costumey if worn now, but looking at those pictures, I would certainly never think “ugly.” They’re such elegant 1950s fashion to me, like a giant hat or a Dior suit or opera gloves. I’m surprised at the harsh judgment, especially from one who generally seems so open to unusual garments…
July 13, 2010 at 12:17 pm
daiyami
Yes, a fun post, would love to see more like this.
Am contemplating the cape—I’m trying to shift to wearing things that show off the transition from smallish waist to very-full hips, and while I’ve been doing wraps instead of cardigans, a cape could be fun….really liked the one that buttoned onto the dress.
July 13, 2010 at 12:18 pm
Jean
I remember a trend from a few years back (maybe as far back as 5 years ago?) when there were short capes – capelets? – at Anthropologie or the like. They were made of a solid colored fabric and had satiny ribbon ties that you tied into a big bow. The young girls were wearing them with jeans and tank tops. It was a cute look.
I just tried to do a search for some images and haven’t had much luck. Now I’m convinced I’ve made this up. I was living in LA at the time. I swear it’s true.
July 13, 2010 at 1:37 pm
Darci
A few years ago, I remember seeing crocheted capelets in boutique stores, with small, multi-coloured flower motifs. I was interested in them, but kept thinking, “I could SO make that!” They were super cute, tho. I think I like the “everyday” version vs. something you’d wear with a more formal dress or suit. But then, again, I’m not very formal…
Love the trends, Selfish! Keep ‘em coming!
July 13, 2010 at 12:23 pm
sewsister
The only cape I like in the series is the grey one, second to last photo. Just my very, very humble opinion because I have absolutely no fashion sense whatsoever, but I don’t think capes are going to come back in style and if they do, it’ll be for a flash and gone again. I’m not brave enough to wear one.
July 13, 2010 at 12:25 pm
Taylor Corona
I like the cape, but it has to be done right. Those women in 1957 knew how to dress, most definitely! I’d like to see more like this too, it’s fun to see.
July 13, 2010 at 12:29 pm
selfishseamstress
I tend to agree, though I might give one a shot to find out for sure. It’d be hard to pull off one of these 50 years later without it looking like a costume. Ahh, to have lived in that decade though (Well, perhaps not to have *lived* in it, but to have dressed in it!)
July 13, 2010 at 12:33 pm
cidell
I love and will rock a cape. That being said, I feel like you are taunting me with all these wonderful, yet unattainable, patterns.
July 13, 2010 at 12:34 pm
kathleen
I like the short capes. They are also an elegant solution to bare shoulders in the workplace, or chilly venues. Plus, they are a fun place to use unusual buttons and a really pretty lining. Don’t listen to Troy Donahue, above. I have it on good authority that he approved of Suzanne Pleshette’s mini-capes back in ’59.
July 13, 2010 at 12:43 pm
coracaecilie
Oh yes, return to style!
I bought some 50ies-sewing-magazines last week on ebay, I’m not sure if they are capes in them, but it is a wonderful idea! I don’t think constructing a cape-pattern should be that difficult.
I’m sorry, knitted jumper, say hello to the thrift store!
July 13, 2010 at 12:44 pm
Andrea
I really dig the cape look. I’m planning on making the cape from the Sew Everything Workshop book when it stops being 100 degrees outside. Hopefully it will look good on me even though I’m built more like a shrub than a tree.
P.S. I sent you an email last week with a link to the Ann Taylor website. Did you know they’re selling a dress that looks exactly like your Coffee Date dress?
July 13, 2010 at 12:59 pm
Tasia
The other great thing about the short cape – minimal fitting required! :)
July 13, 2010 at 1:14 pm
Kyla
I just did a post on capelet! They are fantastic, take a look at my capelets post at http://kylaconstyla.blogspot.com/2010/07/my-new-obsession-capelets.html
July 13, 2010 at 5:23 pm
carina
I enjoyed so much your post – I love the 50´s – Yes! yes! show us more of your catalogs! :)
July 13, 2010 at 5:53 pm
Nikole
When I read this post while at work this morning I was in agreement with pete…erm I mean Troy Donahue, more so because I am a child of the modern era (50′s fashion are u kidding). But after reading through again, seeing Kayla’s pictures and googling I realised that capes, caplets and cape/capelet hybrids have made come back and not in the very vintage way I’ve seen them through patterns; and I like it.
I also remembered that with fashion there is nothing new under the sun when it comes to the shapes and silhouettes and this holds true for the capes and though I could not wear them unless they’re done in a very lightweight knit (I live in the Caribbean) I welcome their place in the fashion circle.
July 13, 2010 at 7:21 pm
MakingTime
Definitely interesting! And cute. I don’t wear the sort of dress it loks good with, sadly.
July 13, 2010 at 7:31 pm
D
I adore the look of slim dress + cape. I want to adore the way it would look on me….
Alas, I don’t think I’m quite ready to be comfortable in such prim and proper clothing!
Although….I often find myself fluctuating between hot & chilly, and I bet a cape would work wonders in ways that a cardigan can’t….
July 13, 2010 at 8:14 pm
sixthofdecember
Butterick has this retro pattern – capelet and all
http://butterick.mccall.com/b5032-products-7647.php?page_id=155
Capes are cute and I adore the post with all the pretty pictures; sadly, my wide shoulders and tubular frame make capes, ponchos, anything unconstructed, for that matter, look curtainy or lampshadey…. an upholstered lamp-post?
>le sigh<
July 13, 2010 at 10:08 pm
Sewingelle
I love these 50′s patterns too and I’ve also been wanting to make a cape ever since the shortish lavender one in Burda was featured.
I’m not height challenged, but I’m not slender either, so I’m not sure a short cape would work for me ( plus, I have way to many other things on my sewing to do list)
July 13, 2010 at 10:52 pm
allisonC
Yes please show us more of the catalogues! I like the look of those capes and it sure beats making a jacket, but for me personally I fear I am one of those tree shaped people you mentioned!
July 13, 2010 at 11:11 pm
Fourth Daughter
Having a figure that’s more 60s than 50s, I probably wouldn’t actually wear any of these but I love the look. Old patterns are so much cooler than the new ones, realistic photos are nothing compared with the fantastic hairdos, doe-eyes and long legs of fashion illustration. So envious of your catalogues, I nearly scored something very similar at a flea market recently but the seller upped the price and as they were a bit mouldy I decided to leave them there. Potentially one of the biggest regrets of my life!
July 14, 2010 at 7:56 am
Anna
Oooh. Oooh. Necklines next, please?
July 14, 2010 at 12:47 pm
Yolanda
Notice the consistent 50′s slouch in all of the illlustrations! Chic!
July 14, 2010 at 1:52 pm
Katherine
STOP DANCING! START SEWING! I’m selfish, sue me.
July 15, 2010 at 6:46 am
carina
Hi Elaine! Today I was browsing a W magazine when I saw some pictures of an essay that Madonna did in Rio some time ago – I instanlty remembered your English Tutor dress! Take a look: http://www.45graus.com.br/madonna-e-jesus-luz-em-ensaio-sensual-e-nu-frontal,blogdasestrelas,35076.html
but don´t get distracted with the toyboy!
July 16, 2010 at 2:23 pm
amber
I think I could warm up to the capelet look? (Cape to me sounds like something long and billowy – these little guys are like their smaller, dantier sister.) Although first, I’d have to get over my love affair with open and wrap style cardigans. Good grief. It’s like I have radar for them and can’t stop buying them.
July 17, 2010 at 7:35 am
jenny
I got my most recent Vogue after reading this post. No capelets, per se, but a long section on capes – so you’re obviously on to something!
July 18, 2010 at 9:31 pm
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July 23, 2010 at 9:47 am
katkuster
I bought a dress at a thrift store almost identical to the 8th picture down, gray one on the left– except with long sleeves and in a nice wool crepe. I had to remove shoulder pads the size of softballs, so I know it was from the 80s. I paired it with a wide patent belt snug and high at the waist, and a pair of pointy shoes. And I love it sooooooo much. It’s slimming, it’s dramatic, and keeping the outfit monochromatic prevents it from being too much– what with a mini-cape and all. I’ll send you a pic if you want to see this look updated for the 80s. I think it works really well.
July 25, 2010 at 1:58 pm
lin3arossa
Look what you triggered: http://sewconvert.wordpress.com/2010/07/23/50s-inspired-sabrina-cape-dress-part-2/
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