You can almost guarantee that when Burda puts out a fitted work-appropriate sheath dress, I’m going to make it. I always figure that if I’m going to put time and effort into making something, it should be something that I’m going to wear for years to come, and I can get my trendy, floofy stuff at the mall. (Though now that I think about it, I can’t remember the last time I went shopping for clothes. Hmm.) Although I’ve been going through a bit of a Burda dry spell, I’ve been just mad about dress 128 from the 8.2009 issue since the moment I saw it:

I’m also not the most imaginative of seamstresses. It’s often difficult for me to imagine the myriad possibilities for a pattern, so I tend to be especially drawn to making something when Burda hits it right on the head, as I feel they have with this dress in terms of fabric choice and styling. So what did I do? I went out and bought fabric that looks just like the stuff that they used:

Unfortunately this was labeled with the ambiguous title “wool blend” with no further detail. Grumble. It’s not the worst stuff in the world to work with, but I’m guessing that the wool in this fabric is taking a backseat to the synthetic, as it’s being pretty resistant to pressing. Sigh- puffy darts. Well, at least it will be wrinkle resistant!
So what’s so dangerous about this? Well, I made an executive decision that may or may not prove to be a mistake. I didn’t muslin the bodice (or any of it for that matter, but muslining a not-very-fitted skirt sometimes seems like overkill). The pattern starts in size 36 and I graded down to my usual 32. I do this often with Burda sheath dresses and they have always ended up a great fit with no alterations. So I figured this should fit similarly, right? Right? Right? Famous last words perhaps?
I guess we’ll see. So far I’ve just stitched the darts (tracing the pattern out is tedious. Grading two sizes and tracing the pattern and adding seam allowances sometimes feels like as much work as actually sewing the freakin’ thing up!) and it looks ok thus far (photo makes the fabric look lighter than it actually is):

Yep, that’s black grosgrain ribbon next to the bodice front, just like in the picture because the Selfish Seamstress is not creative enough to think for herself!
Okay, go ahead and berate me for not making a muslin, and wag your fingers at the follies of laziness and the likelihood that I will have just wasted two yards of relatively nice fabric to make an ill-fitting dress that I will never wear. Tell me that I’ll be sorry later and I’ll learn my lesson the hard way. It’s nothing I don’t already know :D





38 comments
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March 23, 2010 at 10:34 am
peter
Oh, Pshaw — it’ll be fine. In the worst case, you’ll grow into it.
When do we get to see you in something floral. A bedsheet perhaps?
March 23, 2010 at 10:37 am
selfishseamstress
Floral is actually on the horizon. As are a couple of other prints. In the meantime, you can get your Selfish Seamstres Floral Fix here:
http://selfishseamstress.wordpress.com/2009/11/08/delancey-dress-progress-report-almost-done/
Kicky!
March 23, 2010 at 10:47 am
peter
LOVE it. Especially barefoot.
March 23, 2010 at 10:49 am
Trisha
Love the bow on this dress…. but are you concerned that the pleats in the front might look poofy over your tum? Any ideas for combating that look?
March 23, 2010 at 11:41 am
selfishseamstress
You know, I was worried about the pleats since I don’t have a long, lean shape myself. But then I saw that some other people had made this up and it looked fine with the pleats, so I stopped worrying. Then I started making this, found that the darts would not iron flat on this stubborn fabric, and so now I’m worried again a bit :) I guess we’ll have to see. In the worst case, I have extra fabric, so I could just draft a slim skirt without pleats if the pleat version really looks bad. But that would be boring :)
March 23, 2010 at 4:32 pm
Kayy
If you have trouble with poofiness in the pleats, you can reduce it by stitching the pleats partly closed from the back. (Think a dart that’s shorter than the pleat, the bottom end of the pleat is pure pleat, the top is more dart than pleat; from the outside it reads only as pleats.)
March 23, 2010 at 10:18 pm
selfishseamstress
Ooh, clever! The pleats are shaping up pretty well, but I’ll have to remember that trick for the future.
March 23, 2010 at 10:50 am
Nancy K
Well, I won’t berate you, but I do suggest that you at least baste it together first to see if you need to fine tune. It is the perfect dress for your figure and I happen to like plain fabrics without any froufrou.
March 23, 2010 at 11:11 am
Jan
Beautiful dress … has some similarities to the Butterick 5396 sheath I recently made (although that has princess seams). The pleats over the tum don’t bother me at all … I could use the camouflage, lol!
March 23, 2010 at 11:31 am
Tenshi
There’s going to be no berating for not making a muslin from my side, because I’ve been sewing for two years or more now, and I can count the number of muslins I did on one hand. On half a hand, actually, because the number is two. And I do have an output of at least 20 wearable projects per year, so I muslin about 5% of what I sew. Most of what I sew is from Burda Mag patterns, and they’ve never failed me. I know I can sew a 38 straight, take in the waist a little sometimes (though Burda tells me my waist is size 40, which does confuse me to no end), and for pants, I have to do some sort of swayback-adjustment for dummies, meaning I just curve the waistband more or add darts to it. I learned the hard way that 36 fits nice around the waist but due to my having broad shoulders, that lead to two blouses that I can’t properly lift my arms in. I wear them anyways, because I love the fabric and style.
So, from me, you’ll get: Hooray for laziness!
I think your farbic choice is great. This pattern does not leave much room for something else, since the Burda photo really is stunning. It’s like when watching a movie and reading the book afterwards, the characters will always look in my imagination like they did in the film. Hm…. Black with a red/violet/turqoise ribbon maybe? My imagination stops there. Black and grey are good colors.
I’m curious to see how those pleats work out on a real person…
March 23, 2010 at 11:34 am
Reethi
Argh, you totally stole my plan. Then again, given that my sewing queue is long, and progress on it is minimal, should I really complain that people everyone around me actually sews, rather than talk about sewing?
March 23, 2010 at 10:19 pm
selfishseamstress
I’m with you- my throughput is about one garment a month at this rate!
March 23, 2010 at 11:41 am
emory
I can totally understand not making a muslin… with Burda I also often have to grade two sizes (although up, not down) and after all that work I just want to be done with the prep work and get SEWING. I’m starting to learn to at least baste first, as NancyK suggested.
Hopefully all goes well with the dress; if so, it will look great on you. That style is not intended for my frame (and those pleats would make me look pregnant) so I will just have to snarl at you jealously when I see how wonderful you look in it.
March 23, 2010 at 12:07 pm
Stephanie
You don’t really need a muslin unless you are doing something really expensive and complicated, like a wedding dress or something with a huge number of pattern pieces. The rest of the time, you can get away with this. Trace the Burda patterns on something flexible and strong enough that you can carefully pin it together in the seam allowances and then try your pattern on. I see a lot of issues just by doing that, and I make changes then. After that, add extra seam allowances where your fitting problems are. If you find something too snug, loosen it, and then resew. Then you can trim excess where you need to. I remember a sewing instructor once saying in an interview in Threads years back that out of thousands of students over 35 years, only one could wear the pattern in her class without alterations. Everybody else needed to make alterations. Trying on the pattern and a little extra in the seam allowances is how I get by. You are so tiny, I am sure any problem you have can be fixed by taking in, I usually have to go the other way.
March 23, 2010 at 12:21 pm
lin3arossa
A muslin, what’s that? I believe in your witch powers and that everything will turn out ok :)
March 23, 2010 at 12:59 pm
Julia
my proposal for your issue with the fabric: just use thick jersey / knit / romanit. it will work. I did it my self and I am really happy with it. just watch out burdastyle.com acc: apfelblüte cheers
March 23, 2010 at 1:29 pm
Angela
Hehehe… I think it’ll be ok. I’ve never made a muslin, but I think I should start. It seems like you’ve had enough testing with previous patterns. Good luck! :)
March 23, 2010 at 2:14 pm
Ellen
I’m with the others. A muslin? What’s that? Maybe the beraters will comment later.
March 23, 2010 at 2:15 pm
Lindsay T
I’ve made up the skirt part of this dress and the pleats behave nicely. I think this dress will look fab on you.
March 23, 2010 at 2:36 pm
Jana
It´ll be ok I´m sure. Why a muslin? You´ve made similar dresses before… I never make muslins, my life is too short and my time too precious for that :).
March 23, 2010 at 10:22 pm
selfishseamstress
:D I have to admit, not one thing about my body could be considered “industry standard” by any stretch! Muslining is par for the course for me :)
March 23, 2010 at 3:35 pm
Kennis
I don’t remember seeing this dress on Burda. But now that you bring it up, I really want to make it. I need to make my investment on Burda magazine worth it. Can’t wait to see the finished dress!
March 23, 2010 at 3:45 pm
joboenvogue
C’mon Elaine, man up, missy! You’re grown up enough to not need a muslin. Of course, that’s just the words of a teenage rebel who never-ever-EVER makes a muslin.
P.S.: I cannot wait to see pictures of you wearing the finished product, hair piled atop your head in a pouf, and Chanel bags encircling you. It’s a tempting photoshoot, no? :)
March 23, 2010 at 4:33 pm
Debi
hahaha…this post is brining out the anti-muslin camp of which I also belong! What a waste of time in my opinion. As Nancy and Stephanie have already said, I also just pin together or baste and fix any issue fits at that point. Can’t wait to see the finished garment!!
March 23, 2010 at 5:33 pm
beangirl
YOU MUST MAKE A MUSLIN! ALL NON-MUSLIN-MAKERS ARE GUILTY OF DOUBLE-PLUS-UNGOOD–
Oh wait. Nevermind.
I like muslins. But then I know for a fact that a pattern made directly from the envelope (or magazine) will not in any way fit me properly. Ever. I would think if the past five have fit ok, this one probably will too.
Of course, I’m almost always wrong about these things, so probably you will suffer untold agonies of dress-horror when you try it on, scarring you for life and requiring you to attend counselling for garment PTSD for the next five years just to be able to look at wool-blend again.
Or not. I like hyperbole.
March 23, 2010 at 6:59 pm
dana
so jealous of your ability to wear wool…
March 23, 2010 at 7:49 pm
Stefani Sarah
I have probably been putting too much effort on this dress. I’m 162 so according to Burda I’m a petite. So I made a muslin out of size 36 widening it to the hip to size 38 and alter petite it. Although Burda does not state it, I think the bodice is supposed to end about 2 cm higher than the natural waist line. After petite alteration, my muslin turns out that way too. I like it so far. The only problem I’m having is that the sleeve cap ease is too much for my sewing level. I’m probably best described as intermediate beginner and I cannot handle this ease. I’ve modified it twice but still I have puckers. The last alteration I’ve made is removing the sleeve cap ease 1 cm and this gives me least puckers but still I have to struggle to set-in the sleeve. Elaine, I would love to hear about your update on this dress, especially your comment on the sleeve cap. In the mean time, I think I’ll go easy on myself and put this project aside for a while. I hope your dress come out beautifully.
March 24, 2010 at 7:59 am
selfishseamstress
I think excessive ease in the sleeve cap is a very common complaint about Burda patterns. I know that this has been an issue for me with several Burda patterns, both from the magazine and the only Burda envelope pattern I have ever purchased. Don’t worry- it’s not just you :) I haven’t done the sleeves yet, but I’ll let you know how it goes!
March 24, 2010 at 4:28 pm
Stefani Sarah
I didn’t know that there could be sleeve cap ease issue with any patterns at all. Thank you for letting me know this. As Helen below said, ‘muslins can put off a perfectly good pattern’, now I’m thinking that my problem could come from the sheeting cotton I’m working with. I’ve read your progress blog. It’s coming out great I believe.
March 23, 2010 at 11:59 pm
Helen
I almost never do muslins (er… two so far in twenty plus years). Two fabrics never act the same way anyway and two in the same fabric is just a sheer waste of money. I do measure all the vital points of the flat paper pattern, though and compare them with parts of clothes or patterns that already fit me, and it’s enough. My clothes fit me better than RTW or the same as – but they’re always a lot cheaper – about a quarter the price. I swear I hate muslins. They can put you off a perfectly good pattern!
March 24, 2010 at 1:37 am
lin3arossa
You might want to press it those darts like knitters block wool garments i.e. with a moist cloth between the iron and the garment. It just might work…
March 24, 2010 at 1:44 am
Julia
Do not despair!
Here are some examples where it looks good.The fabric is like your.
http://www.burdafashion.com/ru/index/1000002-1578317.html?imgBlogQuery=top,foto,Dez2009,user,oksanasoul,50538,orig
http://www.burdafashion.com/ru/index/1000002-1578317.html?imgBlogQuery=,foto,user,elenapotasheva,tag,Burda+Modemagazin,54401,orig
http://www.burdafashion.com/ru/index/1000002-1578317.html?imgBlogQuery=top,foto,Jan2010,user,alina_borisovna,seite,2,51239,orig
http://www.burdafashion.com/ru/index/1000002-1578317.html?imgBlogQuery=,foto,user,JF,47125,orig
March 24, 2010 at 6:53 am
amber
I’m keeping my fingers crossed that it works out for you. I was so scared of muslin fittings until this last dress and now… well, I’m not sure if I’ll feel comfortable making a fitted woven garment again without one. :/ I’m not sure if this is a good thing or a bad thing.
March 24, 2010 at 7:51 am
Progress report: Burda 8.2009.128 « The Selfish Seamstress
[...] | Tags: Burda, Parisian dress Just a quickie report on my Burda 8.2009.128 dress, the one I am sewing dangerously. I didn’t make too much progress yesterday, but managed to do the pleats and assemble the [...]
March 24, 2010 at 8:24 am
nomadicseamstress
I won’t berate you about muslins either. I tend to do muslins when I make tops (always need to alter partterns for that) but I sew dangerously for pants and skirts all the time. Stitch away!
March 25, 2010 at 2:26 am
flickettysplits
Hi, I think you will look great in this dress – and I think I would look great too! Can you tell me how to get hold of a pattern for it?
March 25, 2010 at 6:42 am
selfishseamstress
I don’t think this pattern is available anywhere except for in the 8.2009 issue of Burda- so far as I know it hasn’t been released as an envelope pattern.
Burda sells back issues of magazines assuming that they still have them in stock, so you can contact them to see. There is a copy of this issue for sale on Ebay US now, if you’re willing to pay dearly for it :) I often buy issues from German Ebay (ebay.de) as they tend to be plentiful there, but they will be in German so if you can’t get by without instructions or don’t speak German, this probably isn’t a great option. (The dress itself is straightforward if you have experience in assembling basic lined dresses with sleeves.)
You could try posting an ad for it on Pattern Review- many people have not
been so happy with Burda lately, so there may be folks who would happily sell the issue to you.
Unfortunately this pattern was published before Burda started making downloadable versions of all the magazine patterns, so that’s not an option.
Additionally you might check to see whether your public library has Burda. I’m guessing you’re in the UK by your use of the word “toile”? I don’t know how widely available it is in libraries there, but best of luck!
April 2, 2010 at 5:38 pm
Burda 8.2010.128: Paris in the wind! « The Selfish Seamstress
[...] finally got around to hemming Burda 8.2010.128, the “Parisian” dress, and here’s the final product. The temperature today is hovering just above freezing, but [...]